Modded Poulan 3400

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olgreenmachine3400

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Joined
Mar 24, 2024
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Location
Clearbrook MN 56634
Hi guys

Im new to working on these old saws. I have quite a few and decided time to learn how to fix them up myself. It costs to much to take them in for carb kits and fuel lines. Im reading on here and learning as I go. Really enjoying it too! I have done the carbs on 2 3400's a 4000 and a 2600. I have gutted the mufflers on all of them. What a difference!

I have one 3400 that I have playing with. Trial and error. A few errors too already. Believe to much of what read everywhere about these old saws. Everybody has a little bit different ideas about what and how to do things. Lots of YouTube too. Now for my 3400. First I gutted the muffler. Cut slit in the side and opened it up like a 4000. Drilled two holes in lower front as well. Drilled a bunch of small holes on the back side of airlifter cover for better air flow. Ran it like that for awhile cutting oak firewood. Cut pretty good just really load. So the other day it was raining I decided to pull the 3400 all apart. I read a forum somewhere about a guy making a sharpie line around the bottom for the cylinder and trimming the bottom down the thickness of the line. So I did that too. I filed and filed then sanded it smooth. I tried the cylinder back on with no gasket. Oops! The piston hit the top. So I made a really nice gasket and put it back on again. ****! it still hits. So now I least had a gasket to trace. Put two gaskets in tightened it down. Damnit I really took toooo much off! So now with three base gaskets in it turns over nice. Finally! I watched a YouTube video about a guy grinding half of the timing key off so I did the same with a file. I took the cylinder back off to try luck at porting a little. Brought it over to a buddy's who has ported his own big work saws for timber falling in Alaska Washington Oregon and California. He opened up the exhaust side up to exit side size. It was really choked down. He roughed up the intake side and opened it up just a little bit. We took the edge off the transfer ports and sloped them down smooth. I smoothed out the plastic intake piece and opened up the sharp corners. I put it all back together and fired it up. Really has a crack and bark to it. Seems really peppy. The whole saw really jumps when you crack the throttle. I just put a new 20" Oregon bar chain on it last night from menards $36 with 11% off $34. Have cut with it yet.

I checked the compression on it 120 cold. Warmed it up checked again 125. I bought sodder last night to check the squish too. Have not checked it yet. I was looking on the inner net for new rings. Thought that might help it out some more. I find ProLine, Caber, Lil Red Barn, Itaco and some no name ones E-bay. What be the best rings for it? How do i fit them properly for most compression? I did this all flying by the seat of my pants. Just trying it for myself. Dont care if it blows up. I have another 3400 jug and piston in my parts saw. Did Duke's ever produce a 4000 end kit for these saws? Or anybody else? Please dont scold me for doin dumb things on this and just winging it not knowing what the hell I'm doing. Sorry just trying to learn. Thanks in advance for any help or advise.
 
Before cutting any cylinder down measure the squish... that way you know how much to remove (its usually just the gasket). Aim for 0.020" (0.018" min) & then put it back together with threebond/dirko/permatex (non silicone fuel safe sealant)
You really want to be vacuum & pressure testing after this sort of work too.
I suspect you're compression tester isn't ment for small engines & is giving you a low reading. 120-125psi is pretty marginal & I wouldn't expect a saw that low to be "really peppy".
As a rough guide, a saw below 130psi won't run well, a saw around 110psi may or may not run, & a saw below 90psi won't run at all
 
I started out porting saws in a similar way.
In hindsight, I should've bought a timing wheel first, my first few port jobs ran better than stock but not great.
I'd get a timing wheel for checking port timing, 9/10 saws gain power by tweaking the timing of the ports a bit. On most firewood/work saws I dont raise the exhaust unless it's really low, I just add intake timing and/or raise the upper transfers.
 
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