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Thread: Questions on Stihl 034 AV Electric Quickstop

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    Questions on Stihl 034 AV Electric Quickstop

    I just purchased this chainsaw, and I have a few questions about it.
    1. When was this model made? Is it a good saw, residential or commercial use?
    2. It has amazing compression, and fired right up, but the oiler does not work. What is the procedure to inspect and repair the oiler? Is it the same as the thread on an 046 oiler? Is there an oiler output adjustment? How would I diagnose the oiler system
    4. Can or should I modify the exhaust for more power and better running?

    I have an 026 and a Promac 580, both since new, and both excellent running. I hope to add the 034 to the stable.I have acreage in Parry Sound Ontario, and use the saws to cut firewood, mostly big old maple, oak and beech.I just found this site, and I will be checking it out regularly

    Thanks for your help

    Peter from Ontario

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    Welcome to site, 034/036 series is a solid saw from stihl I have several set up with 18" - 20" bar max they are good firewood saws. Oiler is adjustable turn the saw over and look for a set -in screw located near the chain side. If it is not working at all pull the sprocket and clutch and check the plastic gear and wire pin. The wire pin spins with the sprocket it will fit in slot on sprocket. The oil hose are sometimes suspect, over time they soften and pinch, parts are all available at dealer. Here is a link to Mr. Acres site that has some specs on your saw.
    http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...9?OpenDocument
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    bcorradi's Avatar
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    Hi Peter,

    To add a little to what DadaTwins said. If you try adjusting the oiler to no avail and need help removing the sprocket and clutch let us know. There is an abundance of information on this site if you use the search mechanism located at the top of the page.

    Tom, a fellow AS member, has a site that has an IPL for your 034 that you may find useful.

    http://www.giftsofwood.com/stihl_info.htm

    Also if you find out that you need to replace the oiler hose, let me know, and I'll send you one for free.
    Thanks,
    Brad

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    Thank you for the great tips on this site! Very useful. I just finished spending $10 on a CD containing all the data on giftofwood. Oh well.

    I found out that I need an inner plate, which mounts between the crankcase and the bar. I am sure that this helps distribute oil flow, and could be why the oiler does not work. Does anyone have one, or is this a part that can be easily obtained from a dealer? Please advise.

    Great site!

    Peter

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    Your saw should be from an era before the EPA started choking down our chainsaw emissions. Therefore I doubt you would see much benefit from opening up the exhaust. The newer saws have teeny tiny exhaust outlets about 5/16" diameter. On the newer ones it helps to open up the exhaust enough to breathe better. Your old saw should be fine the way it is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by parrysounder
    I found out that I need an inner plate, which mounts between the crankcase and the bar.
    Hi Peter,

    The fact that your inner plate is missing suggests that whoever sold you this saw had the same oiler problem and that they may have been looking for the cause. Underneath this plate you will find the oiler tube outlet as well as the oil tank vent which will look like a brass or aluminum plug with a tiny hole in it.

    If this vent becomes plugged, your oiler will stop functioning shortly after closing the cap on the tank. It`s an easy fix though and you might put yourself back in business by simply rodding the hole with a tiny brooch, the type that you would use for torch tips.

    Parry Sound is a beautiful place, isn`t it also the childhood home of Bobby Orr? Being a hockey player growing up in the 70s, he was one of my favorites although I more closely emulated Derek Sanderson.

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    Quote Originally Posted by parrysounder
    Thank you for the great tips on this site! Very useful. I just finished spending $10 on a CD containing all the data on giftofwood. Oh well.

    I found out that I need an inner plate, which mounts between the crankcase and the bar. I am sure that this helps distribute oil flow, and could be why the oiler does not work. Does anyone have one, or is this a part that can be easily obtained from a dealer? Please advise.

    Great site!

    Peter
    Hi Peter,

    I've seen about 5 or 6 034's that didn't have any innerguide plate on them, which i thought was strange. If I remember correctly, all of the 034 Supers I've seen had them, but the older 034 AV's did not. Someone that seen more 034's than me could probably verify if that is indeed the case.

    The innerguide plate possibly helps negligibly for oil flow, but thats not its main purpose. All of your homeowner stihl models (021, 023, 025, 029, 039, etc.) do not even have them if I remember correctly.

    The innerguide plate is a fairly inexpensive part that should be readily available at your dealer. There are 3 styles of innerguide plates (press on, screw on, and barstud mount) so you might want to bring your saw to your dealer to ensure u get the right one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bcorradi
    Hi Peter,

    I've seen about 5 or 6 034's that didn't have any innerguide plate on them, which i thought was strange. If I remember correctly, all of the 034 Supers I've seen had them, but the older 034 AV's did not. Someone that seen more 034's than me could probably verify if that is indeed the case.

    The innerguide plate possibly helps negligibly for oil flow, but thats not its main purpose. All of your homeowner stihl models (021, 023, 025, 029, 039, etc.) do not even have them if I remember correctly.

    The innerguide plate is a fairly inexpensive part that should be readily available at your dealer. There are 3 styles of innerguide plates (press on, screw on, and barstud mount) so you might want to bring your saw to your dealer to ensure u get the right one.
    After reading this thread I took a look at my 034av which I bought new in 93 and have had it since. To my surprise I found no inner guide plate on my saw either. I have many hours on the saw and have not had a problem with the oiler. I guess I will check with my dealer and see if he can order me one. If the part is necessary to insure proper lubrication of the chain, it's worth buying. If anyone has any other thoughs on this I would like to hear them.

    Tom

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    no shoes

    Inner plate not required. The little plastic shoes are the wear and guides on that saw. Keeping the bar mount clean is important, just like any saw.

    The inner plate looks nice, and may make you feel better it is there, but it won't solve any oiler problem.
    Any saw is only as good as the maintenance it recieves.
    66 hotsaw, 034, 009 (It was my Dad's only saw, I will keep it going forever.)
    Fuel is like fine wine, good clarity, nice bouquet, let the saw drink it.

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    as far as the year, you will find what appears to be a sun dial forged in the power head. it is about the size of a dime and has a letter in the center of it. let me know what letter it is and i wil tell you the year. marty
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    I have disassembled the unit, and found that the worm gear is worn to 1/2 the thread height in the 2nd and 3d pitches ( below the engagement spring). I also noticed that the worm gear assembly just lifted out: ie it did not have to be threaded onto the gear pump threads. It's pretty clear that the worm gear is required. Anyone have one for sale? Best source? Bcorradi, I could use the oiler hose. Please contact me at pkoppisch@cogeco.ca, and I will forward a SASE.
    When looking at the oiler in the machine position, the steel gear pump is to the extreme left side of the opening, and in this position, the right edge of the steel gear pump teeth would engage the nylon worm gear , creating a sharp driven interface. Is this correct, or am I missing something?
    The mystery of the missing inner plate is confirmed by stihltech. There are clear oiling grooves on the casting , and the oil has clear passage to the hole in the bar that lubricates the chain.
    Chainsawworld, where is the casting number on the powerhead? There is nothing on the cylinder head. How many years were the 034AV's made?
    Jokers, Parry Sound is a beautiful place, and I consider it the sanctuary of my sanity. I work in the hectic, nasty world of Auto parts suppliers, and I get out of the city whenever possible. I used to work with Bobby Orr's cousin Casey in the early 80's. Bobby is still an icon there.
    Thanks to all Peter

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    on the 034 the stamp is on the bottom of the saw under the rear handle. marty
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    Quote Originally Posted by stihltech
    Inner plate not required. The little plastic shoes are the wear and guides on that saw. Keeping the bar mount clean is important, just like any saw.

    The inner plate looks nice, and may make you feel better it is there, but it won't solve any oiler problem.
    Thanks for the feedback on the inner guide plate. My 034 has the plastic shoes and they are in good shape.

    Tom
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    Quote Originally Posted by parrysounder
    I have disassembled the unit, and found that the worm gear is worn to 1/2 the thread height in the 2nd and 3d pitches ( below the engagement spring). I also noticed that the worm gear assembly just lifted out: ie it did not have to be threaded onto the gear pump threads. It's pretty clear that the worm gear is required. Anyone have one for sale? Best source? Bcorradi, I could use the oiler hose. Please contact me at pkoppisch@cogeco.ca, and I will forward a SASE.
    When looking at the oiler in the machine position, the steel gear pump is to the extreme left side of the opening, and in this position, the right edge of the steel gear pump teeth would engage the nylon worm gear , creating a sharp driven interface. Is this correct, or am I missing something?
    The mystery of the missing inner plate is confirmed by stihltech. There are clear oiling grooves on the casting , and the oil has clear passage to the hole in the bar that lubricates the chain.
    Chainsawworld, where is the casting number on the powerhead? There is nothing on the cylinder head. How many years were the 034AV's made?
    Jokers, Parry Sound is a beautiful place, and I consider it the sanctuary of my sanity. I work in the hectic, nasty world of Auto parts suppliers, and I get out of the city whenever possible. I used to work with Bobby Orr's cousin Casey in the early 80's. Bobby is still an icon there.
    Thanks to all Peter
    The worm gear does just "lift" out; the worm in the pump gear moves when the worm is lifted or moved. You need to get an IPL and look at it carefully and make sure that everything from the sprocket down to the casing is in the correct order for your model. There are three different oil pumps, but all interchange. Any Stihl dealer can get you the worm gear, and most would stock it as they likely use plenty of these (fit's several models). It comes with the new drive spring attached.

    The oil hose kit is a PITA to fit. You get two shots at it as the hose length is sufficient to make two hoses, but you only get one inner spring. Make sure you cut it EXACTLY to length. Even a couple of MM longer or shorter and it won't fit.
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    Peter,

    Your Stihl 034 saw was produced c. 1982-1985+. I purchased my 034AV with Electronic Quickstop in '85. Came stock with a 20" bar and Stihl Super micro (chisel tooth) chain. Only problem I had with it is the Electronic ignition module failed. That is a part you can replace yourself although at $136 US plus sales tax this year, I thought it was a bit pricey.

    This saw has a tendency to get saw dust in the chain oil canals so you need to clean it periodically. Take the chain cover and bar off. Clean out the oil port on the saw body. Then clean the small oil hole in the bar; this is where the oil transfers from the saw body into the chain guide. Unless there is a larger problem in the gear driven pump, it should work. Don't expect a large volume of chain oil to come out. There it a diagram in the Owner's Manual that shows how to test to see if the pump is working: With a sheet of newspaper on the shop floor, run the saw with the bar pointed downward 1/2 to full throttle. You should see a film of oil start to build up as it is thrown off the chain at the end of the bar.

    As for the exhaust question, I would simply check the spark arrestor screen in the muffler. Clean the carbon off of it if present.

    Good luck.

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