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I’ve posted on this before: “I have had rational conversations with guys who use chains once, then replace them. One made a similar business case for the cost of time spent sharpening, and another said he preferred factory fresh edges. Both of these guys then sold their 'used once never...

That’s a good honey hole to find. Philbert

I wasn’t counting all the chains in the basement! Just how many I try to have in the field. Philbert

I try to have 3 chains per saw out in the field. That way I can swap if I hit something, if I’m pressed for time, or just do not feel like sharpening. I also use an Oregon grinder back home. But I carry a file and guide in the field for ‘touch up’ sharpening. *The key is to ‘grind as you...

His evaluations always seem ‘objective’, but do not factor in skill, knowledge of what ‘sharp’’ is, what finished cutter profile is desired, etc. The user sharpens the chain, not the tool. Experience with any one of those tools could lead to different results in each test. Plus, he is...

How about pole saws, etc.? Do they use the small mount, or something else? Thanks. Philbert

Lookup seller ‘ArcherPlus’ in eBay. He is an importer and a goid guy to deal with. Philbert

Why The Home Depot had clearance sale prices on Toro. Philbert

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/product-selector/guide-bar-and-chain-selector/ Philbert

A bridge fell; There was a earthquake; . . . Come on guys, it’s not like something is going to blot out the sun . . . Philbert

The file shape, tooth pattern, and hardness are specific for round, chainsaw, sharpening files. I don’t believe some of that is as important for the depth gauges, where a basic mill file will suffice. But, since we are discussing differences between files, I will post a link to my epiphany...

The fixture for filing small DL count loops (Post #7, above) should become more popular, as more small trimmer saws are now being sold, along with 8”to 12” pole pruners. Philbert

If you file on a soft metal depth gauge tool, you will file it away. If the depth gauge tool is hardened, it is harder on the file. So, I use the tool to check the height; take a stroke or two; re-check; etc. Some guys tilt the tool up to protect the cutter teeth. One guy here, posted a long...

What @muddy42 said. Any file of a suitable size, hardness, and tooth could be used (I sometimes use a grinder). The files sold for this purpose are called ‘safe’ files: the edges are smooth and rounded to protect the tooth cutting edges, in case of accidental contact. Philbert

Found this thread, but probably not of much help: https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/oregon-21a-chain.138865/ Philbert

Repost from August, 2017 (!). (Don’t stare at them directly!) Philbert

Welcome to A.S.! Philbert

1/4” pitch and .325 ‘Nano’ chains may extend battery life, but do not have much ‘meat’ on them. Wear / sharpen away quickly. Did some side-by-side testing with 3/8” low profile (Oregon Type 91) and 3/8” low profile/ narrow kerf (Oregon Type 90) chains. They all cut, and I would use anyone of...

Good thing you verified. Otherwise, it may have shown up in non-symmetrical chains, as well as different angles. I have not used a USG. On my first Oregon grinder I found the scales off by a few degrees. I removed the scale plates, enlarged the mounting holes, and re-installed them in the...

Skip tooth chains are primarily used for a few reasons: 1. Longer bar than a saw normally pulls (only 2/3 the number of cutters in the cut, compared to a full composition chain). 2. Help carry / clear chips on longer bars in bigger wood (typically, 24” or longer). 3. Lazy sawyers who want to...