K-TRON
ArboristSite Lurker
Greetings arborist-site,
This is my first post here. I joined because the site has a lot of 2 man Chainsaw images, and collectors.
This is my first big saw, so I do not know anybody personally who owns one, or know where to find parts.
As a quick introduction, I am 22yrs old, and a fifth year student at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute studying Architecture, and minoring in Civil Engineering and Psychology. I own a small landscaping business of all old machinery, (Cub Cadets, Yazoo's, Eclipse mowers, Howard Rotavators, Snappers, etc.) I enjoy collecting and restoring old equipment and putting them back to use. I also enjoy re-powering decent newer equipment with heavy duty air cooled Wisconsin Single's, Twin's and V4's. I drive a 1979 GMC 7000 motorhome with a 2 stroke Detroit Diesel 4-53T, and I fully restored a 1977 Detroit Diesel 6V53T out of a Sheridan tank a few years back.
I have been eyeing a large two man chainsaw for quite some time, as it fits in with exactly what my landscaping business is about - big old, heavy duty American equipment.
I finally stumbled across a 1947 Disston KB7-AY with the 11hp Kiekhaefer Mercury engine for a good deal. It is mostly complete, turns over (but does not run) and is fitted with a 36" bar and automatic oiler. The purchase of the saw also included the original users manual, bill of receipt $650 in 1947!!!, and four spare chains (all with different style cutters).
Since purchasing, I have cleaned all of the grease/grime and dirt from the saw. I have found a few broken bits, but the engine is free and turns over with great compression. I cleaned the cylinder fins, and exhaust ports. The pistons are in great shape, and look like they have many more years of life left into them. The gearbox is remarkably clean inside, although when I get the chance I am going to make a new gasket for it, and see about installing a new seal.
So the problem I have are:
1) The clutch is stuck in the engaged position, so it is very hard to start the saw. I cannot figure out how to remove the clutch or at least free it up, so that the engine turns independently of the chain like it should. I adjusted the lever arm on the gearbox housing according to the manual, but it does not dis-engage the chain.
Does anyone have any ideas?
2) There is no spark when I crank the engine over. I removed the shut off wire from the side of the distributor, and still no spark. I opened the distributor and found that the points were corroded. I removed the points - filled and sanded smooth. I set the gap at 0.012" and gave the engine a crank. I am now getting a large blue spark between the points, which is traveling down into the base of the distributor. I figured that the condenser is bad, so I removed it and sure enough the blue spark went away. So the distributor is in for a new set of points and a condenser. I have found a new set of points, and a new condenser on ebay, and was wondering if this was the kit that I need?
Fairbanks Morse magneto Points Condenser | eBay
3) The rotor on the distributor is cracked. The metal tang broke off of the bakelite housing. I tried looking up the rotor online, and cross-referenced it to a R2765, but the metal armature is located in a different position than that of the drive coupling on the other side of the rotor. Does anyone have a new/used rotor that they would be willing to sell to me?
4) The distributor cap on my Fairbanks Morse Type J distributor is cracked. The cap is a model LX2430. I have the broken piece, so can I glue it back together with some JB weld? or should I be in pursuit of another cap?
5) The distributor cap also needs a new gasket. I think this one on ebay is the correct?
5110 Fairbanks Morse Magneto End Cover Gasket for Frazer Rototiller | eBay
6) The little piece on the end of the oiler on the helper handle is broken off. The oiler still works, but it would be nice to have a complete fully functioning oiler. Does anyone have an oil guide piece which they wouldnt mind selling to me, or trading for my broken one plus $$$?
7) The aluminum gearbox housing is cracked at the chain guard. The gearbox is fully sealed, its just that some part of the guard is missing and what the missing piece looks like is unknown to me. Does anyone have a spare gearbox housing, either complete or broken with a good chain guard that I can either replace mine with, or cut and TIG weld the missing piece back onto mine?
8) The chain guard cover on the helper handle is missing on my saw. Does anyone have a spare they wouldnt mind selling to me?
9) Where are the restoration folks getting there Disston Heavy Duty Chain Saw sticker that goes above the Distributor Cover?
I found this one online, but cannot find one for the proper name (KB7-AY and 11hp)
Chainsawr Disston DH-120 Decal
10) Does anyone have the color code for the Orange Disston paint?
Once I get the saw complete and running, I want to glass bead blast the whole thing and powder coat the orange bits orange, and the aluminum bits chrome.
Here is an image of my 1947 Disston 2 Man Saw (36" bar, 80" overall)
Thanks in advance for your input,
Christopher Kouttron
This is my first post here. I joined because the site has a lot of 2 man Chainsaw images, and collectors.
This is my first big saw, so I do not know anybody personally who owns one, or know where to find parts.
As a quick introduction, I am 22yrs old, and a fifth year student at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute studying Architecture, and minoring in Civil Engineering and Psychology. I own a small landscaping business of all old machinery, (Cub Cadets, Yazoo's, Eclipse mowers, Howard Rotavators, Snappers, etc.) I enjoy collecting and restoring old equipment and putting them back to use. I also enjoy re-powering decent newer equipment with heavy duty air cooled Wisconsin Single's, Twin's and V4's. I drive a 1979 GMC 7000 motorhome with a 2 stroke Detroit Diesel 4-53T, and I fully restored a 1977 Detroit Diesel 6V53T out of a Sheridan tank a few years back.
I have been eyeing a large two man chainsaw for quite some time, as it fits in with exactly what my landscaping business is about - big old, heavy duty American equipment.
I finally stumbled across a 1947 Disston KB7-AY with the 11hp Kiekhaefer Mercury engine for a good deal. It is mostly complete, turns over (but does not run) and is fitted with a 36" bar and automatic oiler. The purchase of the saw also included the original users manual, bill of receipt $650 in 1947!!!, and four spare chains (all with different style cutters).
Since purchasing, I have cleaned all of the grease/grime and dirt from the saw. I have found a few broken bits, but the engine is free and turns over with great compression. I cleaned the cylinder fins, and exhaust ports. The pistons are in great shape, and look like they have many more years of life left into them. The gearbox is remarkably clean inside, although when I get the chance I am going to make a new gasket for it, and see about installing a new seal.
So the problem I have are:
1) The clutch is stuck in the engaged position, so it is very hard to start the saw. I cannot figure out how to remove the clutch or at least free it up, so that the engine turns independently of the chain like it should. I adjusted the lever arm on the gearbox housing according to the manual, but it does not dis-engage the chain.
Does anyone have any ideas?
2) There is no spark when I crank the engine over. I removed the shut off wire from the side of the distributor, and still no spark. I opened the distributor and found that the points were corroded. I removed the points - filled and sanded smooth. I set the gap at 0.012" and gave the engine a crank. I am now getting a large blue spark between the points, which is traveling down into the base of the distributor. I figured that the condenser is bad, so I removed it and sure enough the blue spark went away. So the distributor is in for a new set of points and a condenser. I have found a new set of points, and a new condenser on ebay, and was wondering if this was the kit that I need?
Fairbanks Morse magneto Points Condenser | eBay
3) The rotor on the distributor is cracked. The metal tang broke off of the bakelite housing. I tried looking up the rotor online, and cross-referenced it to a R2765, but the metal armature is located in a different position than that of the drive coupling on the other side of the rotor. Does anyone have a new/used rotor that they would be willing to sell to me?
4) The distributor cap on my Fairbanks Morse Type J distributor is cracked. The cap is a model LX2430. I have the broken piece, so can I glue it back together with some JB weld? or should I be in pursuit of another cap?
5) The distributor cap also needs a new gasket. I think this one on ebay is the correct?
5110 Fairbanks Morse Magneto End Cover Gasket for Frazer Rototiller | eBay
6) The little piece on the end of the oiler on the helper handle is broken off. The oiler still works, but it would be nice to have a complete fully functioning oiler. Does anyone have an oil guide piece which they wouldnt mind selling to me, or trading for my broken one plus $$$?
7) The aluminum gearbox housing is cracked at the chain guard. The gearbox is fully sealed, its just that some part of the guard is missing and what the missing piece looks like is unknown to me. Does anyone have a spare gearbox housing, either complete or broken with a good chain guard that I can either replace mine with, or cut and TIG weld the missing piece back onto mine?
8) The chain guard cover on the helper handle is missing on my saw. Does anyone have a spare they wouldnt mind selling to me?
9) Where are the restoration folks getting there Disston Heavy Duty Chain Saw sticker that goes above the Distributor Cover?
I found this one online, but cannot find one for the proper name (KB7-AY and 11hp)
Chainsawr Disston DH-120 Decal
10) Does anyone have the color code for the Orange Disston paint?
Once I get the saw complete and running, I want to glass bead blast the whole thing and powder coat the orange bits orange, and the aluminum bits chrome.
Here is an image of my 1947 Disston 2 Man Saw (36" bar, 80" overall)
Thanks in advance for your input,
Christopher Kouttron
