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98' Bandit 250xp chips

Discussion in 'Commercial Tree Care and Climbing' started by Wolfking42084, Mar 11, 2014.

  1. Wolfking42084

    Wolfking42084 ArboristSite Operative

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    Hey guys,
    I just bought a 98' Bandit 250xp. Everything is strong and works great except for the way I think it should throw chips. The RPMs are where my old 200xp were, but it only throws chips maybe 30 feet. Not near the force I think it should. Also, when I run a branch through, anything smaller than say a 1/2" just rips, don't chip, only trickling out the end of the shoot. The knives are brand new, so I was thinking anvil? Would that explain the ripping and the force of the chips? Thanks a bunch
     
  2. arborlicious

    arborlicious ArboristSite Lurker

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    How many hours? Check for wear in the disk behind the knives - especially the outer ones. If it's scalloped out deeply like mine was after 5,000 hours then it might be time to fill it up with some weld and grind flat again before it cracks. Also, like you said the anvil is very important and needs to have a nice square edge. Either turn it around and adjust to 2.5mm or get a new one with 4 new edges.

    All above info was care of Shaun - imagineero on here.

    Steve
     
  3. Wolfking42084

    Wolfking42084 ArboristSite Operative

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    2,300 hours. I will check that. Maybe the anvil/knife gap is too much from the anvil being worn, causing the smaller sticks to bend and break vs. being chipped. If so, no wonder it won't throw them out with force. whats the easiest way to get the 2.5mm gap measurement on the anvil?
     
  4. gorman

    gorman AboristSite Guru

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    Bandit sells a gauge. Real cheap. Some guys use a cardboard piece from a book a matches.
     
  5. Blakesmaster

    Blakesmaster Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The gauge is handy but a credit card works fine too.
     
  6. dbl612

    dbl612 AboristSite Guru

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    when you're done test the setting by sending the credit card through the chipper if it comes out shredded your good to go.
     
  7. Blakesmaster

    Blakesmaster Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I got a few that I should give that treatment to.
     
  8. treeclimber101

    treeclimber101 UNCLE BUCK

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    Yea I set mine to the fat side of a book a matches , that makes a pretty nice chip .
     
  9. treesmith

    treesmith Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I'll send you my wife's

    Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk
     
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  10. Wolfking42084

    Wolfking42084 ArboristSite Operative

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    Yeah, I wanted to run the card through several years back as well...luckily, we paid that off. Whats the best way to access the anvil? Thanks again guys
     
  11. arborlicious

    arborlicious ArboristSite Lurker

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    There are three bolts on the side (1 1/8" or 1 1/4" socket I think) and also two anvil adjusters with nuts - you'll need a wrench for those.

    If you've never inspected the anvil I'd suggest you take it out completely. A good time to replace any corroded fittings (most likely the lower of the two adjusting bolts) and apply some anti-seize. There are a couple of small threaded holes on the anvil for a bolt/screw to aid in holding the anvil in place during installation - not really necessary - I've never used them.

    Always check and adjust the anvil when the knives are turned/swapped. Results in top quality wood chip.
     
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  12. Wolfking42084

    Wolfking42084 ArboristSite Operative

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    I saw the exact bolts that your talking about. When I got the feed wheels jammed open, I think this is exactly my problem. There appears to be atleast 3/8" gap. Once I get the anvil out, just see if it has a perfect angle if flipping is an option?
     
  13. arborlicious

    arborlicious ArboristSite Lurker

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    Yeah, should have 4 edges so you can flip over and flip around. Although maybe the older 250xps only had a 2 sided anvil?

    I think new anvils in the US are pretty cheap say < $100 while in Australia they're about $300 from the bandit dealer.
     
  14. Wolfking42084

    Wolfking42084 ArboristSite Operative

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    The anvil was definitely a problem. It is the 12.5x4.5x.5" three hole. It had been flipped before, but 2 sides on the same edge were beveled almost like a pocket knife. The clearance was also way off. Thanks for the help guys. One edge was still new, so I rotated and reinstalled. Cleaning the mount and anvil very carefully, and using anti-seize on all 3 bolts. When I called the Bandit dealer, the anvil is $232. Anyone know of anywhere cheaper?
     
  15. gorman

    gorman AboristSite Guru

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    Treeestuff has them cheaper.
     
  16. Pelorus

    Pelorus Uva uvam vivendo varia fit

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    I talked to one of the knife manufacturer (Simonds?) at Expo last Nov., and it appears that at least some of them manufacture & supply anvils in addition to knives. Wish I had known that prior to buying my last anvil directly through Bandit USA. None were stocked at Nortrax (Ontario Bandit dealers) at that time....was a spendy transaction for a little piece
    of steel.
     
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  17. imagineero

    imagineero Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The anvil can be sharpened also. Either take it to a machine shop with a tool grinder and have them square it up, or do it yourself. It isn't all that hard if you're handy with a grinder. It needn't be perfect, and it isn't all that hard to improve upon the train wreck that most anvils look like. Some have had the steel completely worn off them so they're at a 20 degree angle instead of the 90 degrees it ought to be. If you're going to do it yourself, use a good straight edge and scribe a straight line on the anvil so you've got a reference to work to. Put it in a vice, and use a flap disk rather than a grinding disk. A grinding disk will heat the metal up and take the temper out of it. Go slow with the flap wheel and pour water over the anvil if it gets warm. It shouldn't ever get too warm to touch with your bare hand. It takes about 15 minutes each side depending on how bad it is.

    You don't need to be a perfectionist about it. Just get it back to reasonably straight and square, and try to get most of the nicks out. It's going to get pounded all to hell in that machine anyhow, and what you've done has probably taken if from 10% effective to 90% effective. Don't fuss over the last 10%. Do fuss over getting your angle set dead perfect top and bottom though. Lots of guys set the gap too small and wear the anvil out real fast. 1/8" is what the manual calls for, and that works just fine. Any less and you're going to chew that anvil out quick for no real gain. You can use a piece of 1/8" metal strip, you've probably got a bit lying around somewhere.
     
  18. Wolfking42084

    Wolfking42084 ArboristSite Operative

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    My anvil only had one new edge left, so I will be ordering a new one next week. Thanks for all the help guys. I replaced the throttle cable today and re-wired my lights.
     
  19. squad143

    squad143 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I've had the same issues with Nortrax and ordered my anvil directly from Bandit. Then I took the new anvil to a buddy who is a machinist and he made me up 3 more. I think I'm good for a while :)
    The same friend sharpens my knives. It helps to know a tool and die maker.
     
  20. jimmycrackcorn

    jimmycrackcorn ArboristSite Operative

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    Hey guys..! I'm glad I came across this thread as I've been looking for anvil information regarding this topic for a few months. Maybe y'all can help..

    Weve been running an 00-02 Bandit 254, it was inherited when we bought someone out so the history or maintenance on it is not known well.. It's doing he same thing as the OP stated with it ripping small stuff as oppose to chipping it but that's not the major issue I've had with it. When trying to chip firewood length stuff it keeps getting jammed up in there, running lengthy brush through doesn't help push it through either. The boss man keeps talking bout the knives but we've changed them out & even though he thinks the problem goes away when we do, IT DOESNT. It's just a band aid for a week or so until it starts up again & the knives become suspect again. Before it said, No we don't run rocks through it.. Lol.. It's become quite the nuisance as when it jams up, production slows & as we all know, S$&@ rolls downhill. We've always run drum rigs & although they too have anvils, the issue never arose. As talented & hard working the boss man is, he doesn't exactly have the mechanical touch & thinks the issue is operator error or the knives being dull when I know there is more to the issue. Understanding that the anvil works like a sissor, would a worn out one keep logs from running through & cause them to just sit right there past the feed wheels? With the drum setup, it wasn't picky, it would take whatever you gave it vs now I have to keep a constant eye on who's putting what through it & that makes for a pain in a$$.


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