difernt peoples different minds, just post the tool , someone like ,someone no, this is life
HOMEMADE CHAINSAW TOOLS
- Thread starter pantelis
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I agree, its a real shame for that to be someone's only contribution to a thread. There are plenty of 'off-topic' threads to play in....
Its a simple little tool, but I have something handy for spline screws on carbs. I'll try to get a pic of it tomorrow.
OK. Here is the tool I made for helping to refasten the strong chain brake spring that is used on almost all chainsaws that Stihl sells today and upwards of 20 years ago or more. Doing it with a screwdriver is almost impossible, although I managed to do it after severe frustration using two screwdrivers at once. Stihl offered a Pic of one in a couple of service manuals and perhaps even sold it at a few shops. My dealer, however, never had one in stock, so I decided to make an equivalent. This one works:
Another view:
I made the steel blade using a 5/16" ordinary bolt about 3" long. I cut off the head with a hacksaw and then milled a flat about 3/8" long, a little over halfway though. I milled a fillet inside the flat with a 1/4" dia. grinder stone to produce a cup shape on the inside where the flat was. That fillet eventually mates with the stud in the case that secures the strong spring.
Next I embedded the threads of the bolt inside a hardwood oak handle with a pre-drilled hole. Being a woodworker, it was easy for me to turn the handle on a small lathe. The threads on the bolt sink into a 9/32" blind hole that I drilled with a hand drill slightly over an inch deep, holding the handle horizontally and tight with a vise as I drilled. That handle will hold the machined blade forever and give you the leverage that you need.
Now I can use this tool very easily to set and once again attach the strong spring that controls the chain brake. That's a piece of cake with this tool but an absolute bear cat without it. The strong spring slips over the round shaft of the blade and slides down on the back side. You then remove the blade of this tool and the spring snaps into place onto the stud. A dab of grease or bar oil on the back side of the blade allows the end of the spring to slide down and off a bit easier.
Cheers!
Another view:
I made the steel blade using a 5/16" ordinary bolt about 3" long. I cut off the head with a hacksaw and then milled a flat about 3/8" long, a little over halfway though. I milled a fillet inside the flat with a 1/4" dia. grinder stone to produce a cup shape on the inside where the flat was. That fillet eventually mates with the stud in the case that secures the strong spring.
Next I embedded the threads of the bolt inside a hardwood oak handle with a pre-drilled hole. Being a woodworker, it was easy for me to turn the handle on a small lathe. The threads on the bolt sink into a 9/32" blind hole that I drilled with a hand drill slightly over an inch deep, holding the handle horizontally and tight with a vise as I drilled. That handle will hold the machined blade forever and give you the leverage that you need.
Now I can use this tool very easily to set and once again attach the strong spring that controls the chain brake. That's a piece of cake with this tool but an absolute bear cat without it. The strong spring slips over the round shaft of the blade and slides down on the back side. You then remove the blade of this tool and the spring snaps into place onto the stud. A dab of grease or bar oil on the back side of the blade allows the end of the spring to slide down and off a bit easier.
Cheers!
Attachments
That's a mighty handy tool! I have a Stihl one that I got used in a box of tools from a small engine shop that closed up and It's priceless.
very nice and cleverOK. Here is the tool I made for helping to refasten the strong chain brake spring that is used on almost all chainsaws that Stihl sells today and upwards of 20 years ago or more. Doing it with a screwdriver is almost impossible, although I managed to do it after severe frustration using two screwdrivers at once. Stihl offered a Pic of one in a couple of service manuals and perhaps even sold it at a few shops. My dealer, however, never had one in stock, so I decided to make an equivalent. This one works:
Another view:
I made the steel blade using a 5/16" ordinary bolt about 3" long. I cut off the head with a hacksaw and then milled a flat about 3/8" long, a little over halfway though. I milled a fillet inside the flat with a 1/4" dia. grinder stone to produce a cup shape on the inside where the flat was. That fillet eventually mates with the stud in the case that secures the strong spring.
Next I embedded the threads of the bolt inside a hardwood oak handle with a pre-drilled hole. Being a woodworker, it was easy for me to turn the handle on a small lathe. The threads on the bolt sink into a 9/32" blind hole that I drilled with a hand drill slightly over an inch deep, holding the handle horizontally and tight with a vise as I drilled. That handle will hold the machined blade forever and give you the leverage that you need.
Now I can use this tool very easily to set and once again attach the strong spring that controls the chain brake. That's a piece of cake with this tool but an absolute bear cat without it. The strong spring slips over the round shaft of the blade and slides down on the back side. You then remove the blade of this tool and the spring snaps into place onto the stud. A dab of grease or bar oil on the back side of the blade allows the end of the spring to slide down and off a bit easier.
Cheers!
old-cat
Fir Man
I also made a tool similar but I used a philips screw driver and ground it to a shape that works VERY well!
Then I made a very similar tool to put the tiny spring on after the brake handle is put in place. Contrary to the STIHL way, I know but SO MUCH easier!
Then I made a very similar tool to put the tiny spring on after the brake handle is put in place. Contrary to the STIHL way, I know but SO MUCH easier!
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would garuntee that a "how to" thread on making that seal puller would help a ton of folks. I really got tired of the screwdrivers and drywall screws and bought a Stihl puller. Blood pressure went down 30 points.
Nice.
Philbert
Philbert
I had a need for a case splitter so I decided to make one. Got together with Glock37 and heres what we came up with. Have about a dozen getting fabbed up right now. I used it on my 044 project and it worked awesome. Found the plans here that someone posted.
Test run on an 032!
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-flywheel-puller.249759/ i like to make my own tools. But some may give you a hard time over it.sometimes it's not about the money. I would love to make that case splitter.
Bilge Rat LT 20
ArboristSite Operative
The tool yall are making for the chain brake spring is found on the end of a pliers type tool for drum brakes on cars/trucks.
I do like the smaller tool made just for saws. Being handmade does make it special.
I do like the smaller tool made just for saws. Being handmade does make it special.
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
That case splitter is nice ! How much will they go for when completed, assuming you will sell them ?
old-cat
Fir Man
Here's a tool I made to hold the flywheel to torque the nut on 046 and 066 STIHL
Put the socket on the nut then the tool on the f/w then an extension through the hole.
Perfect job my friend.Test run on an 032!
good job , also can open 362, 441, and all others with the same type flywheel
We will be offering some for sale and see what interest is there. Pm sent.
Poleman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Great job on the case splitter!!!
I would sure be interested in one also!!!!
Redfin, I like your seal puller!!!! Looks like it would work awesome. I made one out a screwdriver but have to use brute force instead of leverage....works but I bet not like yours!!
I would sure be interested in one also!!!!
Redfin, I like your seal puller!!!! Looks like it would work awesome. I made one out a screwdriver but have to use brute force instead of leverage....works but I bet not like yours!!
