Indoor Wood Furnace

[laynes69]

I have a us stove indoor wood furnace tied into my ductwork, and I wonderend if anyone uses the feed door damper? My knob is busted off and the thermostat is junk. When its cold, its open when its hot its closed. Should it remain closed the whole time its burning? I do use the ash door damper, and the forced draft in the back above the fire. I thought about getting a replacement door, everything else has been rebuilt but its some $$$.
I thought maybe if it was open it would burn a little hotter, but I dont want it to burn out of control. Being its a jacketed wood burner its hard to tell how hot its burning. Maybe I should get a flue thermometer. Thanks

 

[kallaste]

us stoves

I had the same problem w/ the door dampner. Bad design. Here is the fix. If the knob is broken, remove 4 phillips head screws holding the door cover, replace the broken knob screw, then keep adding nuts untill you get to where there is only enough threads left to screw the black knob on. This reinforces the small bolt and it wont break again.
If you are talking about the thermo disc w/ 2 wires on it located on the top left side of the back of the stove, call us stoves and get a new one. They are only $2.00. The hotblast seems like an ok stove. I just bought a 1557 furnace and am looking forward to seeing how it will hold up and perform. I am also in ohio. How long have you been running yours. how does it heat? What sq ft is your home? Thanks Steve

 

[laynes69]

When I say thermostat its the spring thermostat in the door itself. I have the limit control, which after 20 years it was time to replace, still worked though (A 130.00 Part). Of course the woodfurnace is about 20 years old. Its a 1500 wood/coal same as the 1537G. I heat 2400 square feet. Its installed in series so I removed the blowers and ducted the air from the gas furnace in the back of the wood furnace. The limit control tells the main furnace when to kick on and off. It has held up well, but I have found from the factory it was thrown together. After 20 years, I replaced the shaker grates, straightened the firebox baffle, and reinforced it. And I rebuilt the rails to support the greater weight, and it wont warp again. It heats very well, take no time at all with this installation to take the house from 68 to 75 in minutes. And I added the forced draft to mine. Im in northcentral ohio.

 

[kallaste]

hot blast

Heck we are just about neighbors! i live in pataskala. I just ordered the thermostat and blower kit for mine. I am hooking it in in paralell. How often do you burn yours and how many cords do you go thrue in an average winter? Do you still have the original blowers? Interested in maybe selling them?

thanks Steve.

 

[JeffHK454]

laynes69 I meant to tell you that I went ahead and got the forced draft inducer from US Stove for my 1600M. I also added 24 fire brick to the box for an estimated 80% of coverage and hopefully a higher fire box temp.

I also added a 36" section of flue to my chimney and a new Stevens high efficiency SS spark-arrestor cap.

Now if it would just get under 80* I could try it out!

JH

 

[laynes69]

I burned about 5 cords last year, which part of that was without the draft blower. I burn all winter long, 24 hours a day 7 days a week. I am burning at nighttime right now. I do have the original blowers, but I dont know if I will get rid of them yet. You will see better results with it installed in series, but anyhow you do it it will still heat. We keep our 150+ year old home, about 2400 square feet 75 to 76 all winter long with ours. JeffHK454 good luck with your temps. You will see a large increase in heat output with the draft inducer.

 

[JeffHK454]

Well I had a day off work today and got to try all my improvements out on this 39* morning. I was very impressed with the upgrades in both the heat out-put and very clean burn! With a little tuning I was able to control fire box temps in the 400-500* range while having NO visible smoke.

Thanks, Jeff

 

[laynes69]

I have my limit set for 140 degrees on and 85 degrees off. My furnace blower will run for 7 to 12 minutes before shutting off. I have noticed the most heat is put into the house with these settings. The heat that comes from the registers isn't too hot, but it really warms the house up quick. Did you see a difference in performance with the forced draft? I know I was happy with mine.

 

[JeffHK454]

Yes I was pleased with the forced draft kit, It was amazing to watch the firebox and flue temps go up and down.

I also have set for 140*-85*, it performs well there for me in a 2,200 sq.ft ranch. I think in about 45 min. I took my house from 66* to 75* with four nice dry Osage Orange logs!

I do have to say that my main objective was to improve the basic efficiency of how I burned wood with my low-tech furnace and it has worked out great!

Jeff

 

[kallaste]

Draft kit

I just recieved my draft kit from us stoves, I will be hooking it up this week. Funny thing is that the 1557m must be sold only in tractor supply stores. The draft kit doesnt say anythink about a 1557. only a 1537. Shouldnt be a problem though.

 

[tdb]

Clayton

It sounds like some of you may have a Clayton furnace, mine has a draft motor on it , only use it for starting fires , on the side of the draft motor is an adjustable draft that I use , the furnace is a Clayton 1600 , its 20years old , when I bought it I was told it was the cadillac of wood furnaces .

 

[JeffHK454]

Yep , other than color that's my furnace.

tdb, why do you use it for starting fires only?

Jeff

 

[tdb]

Clayton

When I bought the furnace It did come with its own thermostat, but I never need to use it , it gets hot enough with out it, I burn about 5 cord a year. What I did was connect the 2 stat wires together inside the furnace so the draft motor is hot all the time , there is a on and off switch right on the motor, on the left side of the motor there is a round thumb bolt that I can turn in and out , and that controils the draft . TedMI.

 

[aaronmach1]

bump to top so i can find it later.