Jonsered Chainsaws

[XPLRN]

Nice!

I got me one of those babies. Got it from Barney34 in trade for a 2095.

I ditched the cutter's choice decals for the gold "Champ" ones. This is an early twin coil model, and a real good runner.

That's a great looking saw....hopefully mine will clean up that nice! Where did you get the Jonsered decals and also the chrome top air cleaner??

 

[8433jeff]

Thats a sweet saw.

 

[bama]

Thanks, ST, for that suggestion. I'd wondered about that myself and am curious as to why "it is not well suited for general cutting" ...different tooth design or?? Could I use the bar that is currently on the saw satisfactorily or should I buy a complete new bar and chain and keep that bar for the future usage(??? what that will be I don't rightly know) of carbide chain??? If buying a new bar and chain what chain would you recommend!??

I think it's a 20" bar on it currently and IIRC I read in some other posts that the 670 runs good with that size bar?? Actually I'd not be opposed to a 24" bar/chain assembly if it wouldn't compromise the power output of engine. My BIL has a property with some good sized Ponderosa Pine(downed and standing) that I'll probably be burying that 670 into sometime in the future.

Carbide chain was used because the firemen that ran that saw would cut through not just wood, but also steel when venting a roof. Regular chain would dull right away, but the carbide would keep its edge. It is not possible to sharpen a carbide chain with regular files, though. Best to put it aside and get some standard chain. I use 20" on my 630, but more important is how big of wood are you cutting? If 20" gets you through, then it will be fine. If you always having to cut the front and then the back of a log when bucking, then a 24" may be what you need.

 

[Cantdog]

Carbide chain was used because the firemen that ran that saw would cut through not just wood, but also steel when venting a roof. Regular chain would dull right away, but the carbide would keep its edge. It is not possible to sharpen a carbide chain with regular files, though. Best to put it aside and get some standard chain. I use 20" on my 630, but more important is how big of wood are you cutting? If 20" gets you through, then it will be fine. If you always having to cut the front and then the back of a log when bucking, then a 24" may be what you need.

Exactly... carbide is for cutting through materials that are harder/more abrasive than steel. I use a lot of carbide tooling in my business and it is tough...but it is never as sharp as freshly sharpened tool steel..ever. As Niko said hang it up on a nail somewhere and get a good full chisel in Oregon or Stihl...you'll love it. 20" is good but 24" will work very well in soft wood on that saw..


Bob if you're still listening....you suck!!!!!......LOLOL!!! ( I only wish I could suck that much!!)

 

[XPLRN]

Got a little deeper into the 'Cutters Edge' / 670 Super WestCoast

@ spike60; Where did you get the gold Jonsered stickers and the chrome top aircleaner??

@ bama; Thanks for your perspective on the carbide chain and how it was utilized on this particular saw!

@ Cantdog; Your input on the carbide vs. tool steel holding the sharper edge makes sense. I've got some carbide machining background(hard metals/fast feed speeds) and for wood I can understand your point about the tool steel being the way to go.

Looks like I'll be hanging up the 'Cutters Edge' bar and chain and getting a new 24" setup.........any reccomendations on best value vs. performance?? It will be used to cut up the Ponderosa Pine shown in previous pictures.

Here are some pictures of what I found when I took the side cover, carb cover and muffler off. Sure looks like very very low usage going off of the lack of crud around the clutch, carb and in the exhaust port.

Any thoughts on the best way to go about firing up this saw!?? Remember it's not ran in years.....maybe even a decade!??? Should I pull the plug and put some 2-stroke mix oil in on top of the piston with the piston in the TDC position and let it set there and soak down to the ring?? Maybe put the oil in and then pull it over for a bit........ or is that just going to collect down in the crankcase with bad results?? Just want to do what will be the best for the bringing this saw back to usable condition.

Also regarding the clutch hub bearing..........what's the best way to lubricate that and with what?? It feels kinda sticky(old lube/grease??) and I'd like to make sure that it's got fresh lubrication to prolong the life of that bearing.

 

[Cantdog]

Yes definately not many hour(s) on that saw!!! As far as starting...I would use a good quality synthetic oil ( though not a big Stihl flag waver I really like ultra) like Stihl Ultra and mix a bit rich for the first tank, like 32:1 and just start it up. If it has sat for a lomg time you may need to replace the fuel line and clean and rebuild the carb using a new kit...but who knows it may well be fine as is....start it up and see how it runs. From there you can tell what it needs or doesn't need..

 

[taplinhill]

The gold 670 Champ decals are still available through dealers.
I had to give Spike60 a hard time when he put them on his saw because they are not "correct".

 

[spike60]

Bob if you're still listening....you suck!!!!!......LOLOL!!! ( I only wish I could suck that much!!)

Yeah, I suppose I do at that. :msp_biggrin:

And Eric, it just looked like crap with the Cutters Choice decals on there.

Hey............at least i didn't paint it silver!
:msp_thumbsup:

 

[taplinhill]

A silver top 670?
Hmmmmmmmm...................................I'm getting an idea.................

 

[J.Walker]

Spike was telling me that the last of 2165's were still around,
So you have to act quick!!!!

 

[spike60]

Spike was telling me that the last of 2165's were still around,
So you have to act quick!!!!

Your's should arrive today. We'll have to have another GTG in order for me to give it to you.

 

[spike60]

A silver top 670?
Hmmmmmmmm...................................I'm getting an idea.................

I've got a couple cans of silver paint if your idea materializes.................................

 

[XPLRN]

Thanks!!

@ Cantdog ; Thanks for the input on reviving techniques. Do the crank bearings and wrist pin bearing receive enough immediate lubrication from the richened up 32:1 mixture to insure sure they don't have any lube issues?? I'm also still wondering about the clutch hub bearing as it seems to have a 'old / sticky ' lube feel to it......not smooth and free spinning.

@ taplinhill ; Thanks for the heads up on the decals still being available thru dealers.......are there any on-line Jonsered dealers that you could recommend??

@ spike60 ; Any info on where I can get a chrome top K&N filter such as what you've got on your saw??


I'll be needing a replacement for the 'Cutters Edge' carbide chain and bar. Probably going with a 24" setup........any recommendations on best value vs. performance with the primary useage being Ponderosa Pine??

 

[Cantdog]

Yes by the time you have enough fuel in the lower end to start the motor there will be enough oil on the bearings. As for the clutch bearing....most of those can be greased through the end of the crank with a needle point gun. If you are in doubt pull the clutch and clean/ make sure of it. Remember the clutch is lefthand thread. As far as bar and chains go.....probably the best bang for the buck is the Carlton branded German bars from site sponsor Bailey's. I bought 2 20" B&C combos from them with the woodland pro chains and have been very happy. The first one made me happiest....on sale for $29.00 for both bar and chain...the second was $39.00 for the same. Still a good deal. There are many different brand bars that fit that saw...I would try to get a solid bar with a replacable tip rather than a laminated bar.

 

[J.Walker]

Your's should arrive today. We'll have to have another GTG in order for me to give it to you.

Sounds good Bob, maybe at the GTG in Sales Tax Free New Hampshire:biggrin:

 

[XPLRN]

Thanks!

Yes by the time you have enough fuel in the lower end to start the motor there will be enough oil on the bearings. As for the clutch bearing....most of those can be greased through the end of the crank with a needle point gun. If you are in doubt pull the clutch and clean/ make sure of it. Remember the clutch is lefthand thread. As far as bar and chains go.....probably the best bang for the buck is the Carlton branded German bars from site sponsor Bailey's. I bought 2 20" B&C combos from them with the woodland pro chains and have been very happy. The first one made me happiest....on sale for $29.00 for both bar and chain...the second was $39.00 for the same. Still a good deal. There are many different brand bars that fit that saw...I would try to get a solid bar with a replacable tip rather than a laminated bar.

Thanks for the continued informative responses to my questions, sure does help!! I'll go look around on the mentioned site and see what sale items they might currently have. I like the idea of a billet/solid bar vs. the laminated bar. Was wondering if I could just use the 'Cutters Edge' bar(a solid bar with a replaceable roller tip) that came with the saw and only buy a new chain?? The carbide chain has 66 drive links, .404 pitch and .063 gauge.........so is that the info I need to duplicate when buying a non-carbide cutter chain to work on this bar?? . Just trying to keep the overhead down and figure out what can be done with what I've got. Numerous folks have mentioned not using the carbide tipped chain so that will definitely be getting hung up on the wall.

Where can a guy get one of the stock muffler support brackets? That appears to be something that got removed/changed when they put the aluminum "skid plate" on the front of the saw. There are two long studs coming out of the cylinder that the muffler slides over on my saw. Is that the stock configuration or was that something "Cutters Edge" changed also?? In looking thru this IPL ; http://www.jonsered.ws/670625.pdf on page 2 in the 'B' section I can't seem to see these two long studs!??

I'm curious as to the greasing through the end of the crank, is there a zerk or ?? I'll get some time this coming week to get back to saw tinkering as my wife had gallbladder surgery on Friday. I've been trying to devote my time to helping her with recovery and household chores.

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks for the continued informative responses to my questions, sure does help!! I'll go look around on the mentioned site and see what sale items they might currently have. I like the idea of a billet/solid bar vs. the laminated bar. Was wondering if I could just use the 'Cutters Edge' bar(a solid bar with a replaceable roller tip) that came with the saw and only buy a new chain?? The carbide chain has 66 drive links, .404 pitch and .063 gauge.........so is that the info I need to duplicate when buying a non-carbide cutter chain to work on this bar?? . Just trying to keep the overhead down and figure out what can be done with what I've got. Numerous folks have mentioned not using the carbide tipped chain so that will definitely be getting hung up on the wall.

Where can a guy get one of the stock muffler support brackets? That appears to be something that got removed/changed when they put the aluminum "skid plate" on the front of the saw. There are two long studs coming out of the cylinder that the muffler slides over on my saw. Is that the stock configuration or was that something "Cutters Edge" changed also?? In looking thru this IPL ; http://www.jonsered.ws/670625.pdf on page 2 in the 'B' section I can't seem to see these two long studs!??

I'm curious as to the greasing through the end of the crank, is there a zerk or ?? I'll get some time this coming week to get back to saw tinkering as my wife had gallbladder surgery on Friday. I've been trying to devote my time to helping her with recovery and household chores.

.404 X .063 is doable but is a little heavy duty for this saw.....404 is not as common nor as easy to find, nor as cheap as 3/8" by, say .058. Personally I would hang the bar and chain on a nail in the shop and use them when cutting something very dirty or rude and pick up a 20" X 3/8 in .058 or .050 which is ever is more available in your area. I have been using the Woodland Pro full chisel in 3/8 X .058 on all my newer (LOL) saws...at $13.00 a loop from Bailey's you can't go wrong.
Bailey's also has the muffler support bracket for your saw.. their order # is QH 5053 5901 and costs $3.99

The muffler studs are stock but they came either way...bolts or studs depending on the yr/series.
The grease goes in the very end of the crank....right in the centering taper in the end. You need a needle type grease gun...the same as you would use to grease a bar tip. The center of the shaft is bored in and then a right angle hole out to the needle bearing...you may have to pull the clutch and clean this passage up if it won't take grease as the old grease may have hardened up in there. Most Jonsered/husky cranks are this way but I have seen some that were not bored so if you pull the clutch you'll see what I mean and if it is not bored just clean up the bearing and lube by hand. Remember this bearing is only spinning when at idle so you don't need a lot of grease.

Good luck to the wife and good for you helping out!! Glad to be of any help I can....you have a dandy saw there and should last you a lifetime if cared for properly.

 

[taplinhill]

I would agree with Robin about switching from .404 to 3/8" pitch. Just don't forget a 3/8 sprocket.

 

[Cantdog]

I would agree with Robin about switching from .404 to 3/8" pitch. Just don't forget a 3/8 sprocket.

OOOH yeah Eric I kinda passed that by.....hopefully the OP has a rim drive clutch drum so the new 3/8 rim would only add another $5-$6 to the setup..but definately a "must do"!!!.

 

[XPLRN]

OOOH yeah Eric I kinda passed that by.....hopefully the OP has a rim drive clutch drum so the new 3/8 rim would only add another $5-$6 to the setup..but definately a "must do"!!!.

Thanks guys for the information on how to get setup for using the 3/8 pitch and smaller gauge bars. I went and looked up the price on the .404/.063 chains and it was .29 cents a drive link.....ends up being about a $30 chain.

What I don't know is how to figure out if I have a "rim drive clutch drum". Can it be determined by looking at these two pictures??

@ Cantdog; thanks for the part number on the muffler bracket and would those folks also have this "rim drive clutch drum" or is there a better place to source the Jonsered parts!?? I do appreciate the help on getting this squared away as I would like to get the saw up into functional condition ASAP. The other thing I'm wondering about is since I took the "skid plate" off where does one get the spike plates??