McCulloch 10-10S Restoration w/ Pics

[stinkbait]

This is a 10-10S that I have had for a while. I had all the parts that I needed to restore except the top tank assembly. Through some recent trading I was able to get a parts 10-10 that I could steal the top tank assembly from.

10-10S

Donor saw

Top tank assembly removed

Parts painted with valspar tractor enamel

 

[stinkbait]

Continued

10-10S engine is in great shape

10-10S engine cleaned up and coil installed with new wire

 

[Rustynutz]

Looking great
Keep up the good work

 

[promac850]

Would you holler with the paint code for that Valspar paint, where did you get it? Lowes?

 

[HILLBILLYREDNEC]

Can not wait til to see the end product.

 

[Warped5]

Would you holler with the paint code for that Valspar paint, where did you get it? Lowes?

I am interested in that info too! I DO know that Rust-Oleum 7747 Sunburst Yellow is very close. If you lean toward the auto-body technology, ModifiedMark posted a Valspar paint code that is dead-on.

P.S. Stinkbait - Dude, you need new decals, too ....

 

[stinkbait]

Looking great
Keep up the good work

Thanks!

Would you holler with the paint code for that Valspar paint, where did you get it? Lowes?

You can get it at tractor supply in the rattle can or by the bucket. This just happens to be john deere yellow, which I think matches great. The only difference between the rattle can and the bucket is that the rattle can takes a little longer to fully cure. With the bucket you can add hardener to make it set faster.

I am interested in that info too! I DO know that Rust-Oleum 7747 Sunburst Yellow is very close. If you lean toward the auto-body technology, ModifiedMark posted a Valspar paint code that is dead-on.

P.S. Stinkbait - Dude, you need new decals, too ....

I didn't know I could get new decals. This saw won't be a shelf queen anyway. I might even sell it when I'm done.

 

[Warped5]

IMHO, you should take a piece of 'stock' Mac hardware to TSC with you .... Deere yellow looks a bit 'off' to me when I hold the can next to the hardware. New Holland yellow looks much closer .... but what do I know ... I am a bit color blind! LMAO!

As noted earlier, the wifester verified that the RO color was VERY close .... JMO

 

[leeha]

Looks great stink,
Very nice project, I'm sure it will
look awsome when completed.




Lee

 

[stinkbait]

IMHO, you should take a piece of 'stock' Mac hardware to TSC with you .... Deere yellow looks a bit 'off' to me when I hold the can next to the hardware. New Holland yellow looks much closer .... but what do I know ... I am a bit color blind! LMAO!

As noted earlier, the wifester verified that the RO color was VERY close .... JMO

Well one thing that I have noticed about macs is that no two macs are the exact same color anyway. I have older ones and newer ones that don't match at all. I really just want to make it look pretty anyway.

 

[leeha]

Well one thing that I have noticed about macs is that no two macs are the exact same color anyway. I have older ones and newer ones that don't match at all. I really just want to make it look pretty anyway.

A1 correct on that note.
I have restored many bigger Mac's and have
seen a few different shades of yellow.
As long as it's close your in the game.



Lee

 

[rwoods]

MAC yellow

I don't have near the number of MACs that many here have but I can say from my small collection that the factory color varies. IMHO if you want a real pretty saw you have to paint the whole thing. If you want an authentic restoration you need to find an unmolested part of the same vintage and model and match that color. Personally I like Stinkbait's choice. Some will immediately say without even looking that John Deere yellow is too yellow. My 1-60 is more yellow than John Deere Yellow. My newer MACs have more orange in the color. For less than $15 you can buy 3 to 4 different brands. Test them and pick the one you like. Without checking I'm almost positive that I settled on Valspar for my 8200 - my first and probably last chainsaw paint job (I just don't have the touch or patience to spray paint well). Ron

 

[Warped5]

Where the he** is ProMac610 / Chris J / Thieroff when I need some support here?

I'm gettin closer to working on the SP81 and am even considering powder coat ... yes, really. But there is more work there that just the $$ outlay (which is really not so bad) .... still weighing it ...

 

[rwoods]

Well one thing that I have noticed about macs is that no two macs are the exact same color anyway. I have older ones and newer ones that don't match at all. I really just want to make it look pretty anyway.

A1 correct on that note.
I have restored many bigger Mac's and have
seen a few different shades of yellow.
As long as it's close your in the game.



Lee

You guys can type faster than me. But at least we think alike. Ron

 

[stinkbait]

I don't have near the number of MACs that many here have but I can say from my small collection that the factory color varies. IMHO if you want a real pretty saw you have to paint the whole thing. If you want an authentic restoration you need to find an unmolested part of the same vintage and model and match that color. Personally I like Stinkbait's choice. Some will immediately say without even looking that John Deere yellow is too yellow. My 1-60 is more yellow than John Deere Yellow. My newer MACs have more orange in the color. For less than $15 you can buy 3 to 4 different brands. Test them and pick the one you like. Without checking I'm almost positive that I settled on Valspar for my 8200 - my first and probably last chainsaw paint job (I just don't have the touch or patience to spray paint well). Ron

One thing that I love about the valspar enamel is that it is very glossy. The high gloss finish can make a novice painters work look really good.

 

[rwoods]

Where the he** is ProMac610 / Chris J / Thieroff when I need some support here?

I'm gettin closer to working on the SP81 and am even considering poder coat ... yes, really. But there is more work there that just the $$ outlay (which is really not so bad) .... still weighing it ...

Powder coat doesn't necessarily solve your color selection problem. The pricing I have received for professional powder coating has kept me away. But I love the powder coat on my tractor impliments. Like a Timex it takes a licking but keeps on ticking. Ron

 

[Warped5]

Powder coat doesn't necessarily solve your color selection problem. The pricing I have received for professional powder coating has kept me away. But I love the powder coat on my tractor impliments. Like a Timex it takes a licking but keeps on ticking. Ron

Ron - The guy I called spent time talking to me. I was led to think that the pieeces could be blasted/coated for a <$100 total. I was looking at a thread by MasterMind** ealier this week ... he paints his parts, then sticks them in his truck to 'bake' them on a hot summer day. I am not made of money, so I am strongly considering a similar route. But this color-blind guy wants to get it CLOSE.

 

[rwoods]

Ron - The guy I called spent time talking to me. I was led to think that the pieeces could be blasted/coated for a <$100 total. I was looking at a thread by MasterMind** ealier this week ... he paints his parts, then sticks them in his truck to 'bake' them on a hot summer day. I am not made of money, so I am strongly considering a similar route. But this color-blind guy wants to get it CLOSE.

That's about the same range I was quoted for powder coat; I would rather spend the money on saw parts. I'm not good with colors either and I think that NH from Tractor Supply was the closest cap color to my new saws but I don't remember if I sprayed any parts with it. I also picked up some industrial safety yellow from Northern Hydraulic (they had two types and each was a different shade) that looked really close but I haven't tried it as I have basically sworn off painting for now. If I paint outside I get bugs and dust. If I paint in the basement I make my wife ill. And no matter where I paint, unless it is flat black, it doesn't look very good. Ron

 

[mactodd]

I'm not so concerned with the color match as I am with the crank seal on the flywheel side. Looks to be cockeyed. Make sure it is flush with the crankcase all the way around, or you will have issues.
As far as color, the Krylon Sunburst yellow is the closest I have seen to Mac yellow, but it isn't real durable. The Valspar is more fuel resistant if cured good, and yes, sitting it outside in 100 degree temps for a few days cures it pretty well! Powder coat is the most durable, but it is messy and time consuming, hence the price if you have it done.
Great job, Stinkbait. I can't wait to see it in some wood. One of these days I'll get my 10-10S back in service. The 57cc Macs don't get enough respect, but they are darn near as powerful as the 70cc versions. I know my S with busted rings was more powerful than my 5-10, hands down. Just couldn't keep the S running. Got a NOS piston to fix that though...:msp_biggrin:

 

[stinkbait]

I helped a guy hang some gutters today to earn some more saw money. Now I'm about to head out to the garage to work on the 10-10S again. While I was at work, I left the parts I painted in the truck with the windows rolled up parked in the sunshine. Hope that helped speed up the curing process. Will post some pics this evening.