sawkid15
ArboristSite Member
what exactly is noodling? i see it mentioned in alot of posts.
noodling
- Thread starter sawkid15
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From what I can see, its a term refered to if you cut the wood with the grain as opposed to across the grain. For instanse, take a log, tip it on it's side and cut the log lengthwise. the resulting wood waste, unlike sawdust or chips, looks like noodles.
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's when your saw is in this orientation -- goes fast (as long as you don't clog up with noodles) and usually used to cut large blocks in half or quarters to make it easier to hand split or to lift onto a hydraulic splitter or into a pickup. On this tree I noodled in half first then cut off the block, then noodled the next piece then cut it off, etc:
I normally start the noodle with the nearest part of the bar engaged in the wood (and the "dogs" too), then swivel so the powerhead comes up and the bar tip goes down. Once the cut is about as deep as the bar is high, I start to favor it so the tip is lower then the powerhead -- I'm not sure why but it helps to keep the noodles from clogging the sprocket cover. Of course being careful that I'm not going to clip anything with the tip if it's sticking out the backside of the log!
If you do clog up, then it's hit the chain brake, pull out the noodles, release the brake and continue.
If I'm noodling a block direct on the ground I'll leave an inch or two of wood, if you can accurately aim a Fiskars splitting ax or a maul it's trivial to pop it apart them. If I'm noodling on top of another block I'll usually flatten out the saw so the bar is level for the last inch or so and just cut it in half and let the two pieces fall to the side.
It's **NOT** this orientation, which is ripping and is very slow, hot, sawdust producing work unless you have a special ripping chain (and normally you mount the saw to a frame so you can make nice even boards):
I normally start the noodle with the nearest part of the bar engaged in the wood (and the "dogs" too), then swivel so the powerhead comes up and the bar tip goes down. Once the cut is about as deep as the bar is high, I start to favor it so the tip is lower then the powerhead -- I'm not sure why but it helps to keep the noodles from clogging the sprocket cover. Of course being careful that I'm not going to clip anything with the tip if it's sticking out the backside of the log!
If you do clog up, then it's hit the chain brake, pull out the noodles, release the brake and continue.
If I'm noodling a block direct on the ground I'll leave an inch or two of wood, if you can accurately aim a Fiskars splitting ax or a maul it's trivial to pop it apart them. If I'm noodling on top of another block I'll usually flatten out the saw so the bar is level for the last inch or so and just cut it in half and let the two pieces fall to the side.
It's **NOT** this orientation, which is ripping and is very slow, hot, sawdust producing work unless you have a special ripping chain (and normally you mount the saw to a frame so you can make nice even boards):
Last edited:
sawkid15
ArboristSite Member
thanks
thanks for the replys, the name makes alot of sense now. i have done this a couple of times
thanks for the replys, the name makes alot of sense now. i have done this a couple of times
