Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
I'm waiting on the friction yoke for it, plus a couple of small parts.
So it's also broken.
CT
Pioneer chainsaws
- Thread starter WesternSaw
- Start date
-
- Tags
- operator manual
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I'm waiting on the friction yoke for it, plus a couple of small parts.
So it's also broken.
CT
Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
Hoping to get the parts soon, I want this saw to run. Looks like a capable saw, decently built and will be my only saw with anti-vibe.
At 66cc should have plenty of power to make a good firewood saw.
CT
At 66cc should have plenty of power to make a good firewood saw.
CT
Mine was a super firewood saw. I purchased it new (79-80) with a 20" bar and twice found Douglas Fir tree ends so large a cut from both sides would not meet in the center. She just happily gnawed her way through and once the cuts were wedged off completed the center portion. She always started (often needed a carburetor prime to start after prolonged dry storage) and once warm performed without a problem (she was set to operate @4100' and usually cut @8000+). If yours is is as faithful as mine you will be glad you have her. The last 6 years of service she pulled a 24" bar and I do not recall it ever bogging down. I think mine is still running the original fuel lines. The starter spool failure was my fault and once I repair the coil she will again be a fine saw though now likely in a back-up position.
Lou
Lou
Looking good Thieroff, the Pioneers were known for their power/torque, the Farmsaw and Farmlite ll were built a little more lightly and intended for homeowners and farmers where they were not as likely to be subjected to Professional/heavyduty useage. You will likely find the Farmsaw satisfactorialy for firewood duty if you are not in a rush to get all your wood cut up quickly. They are not the fastest but will pull chain steadily if in good mechanical condition.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
propliner
ArboristSite Guru
Nice job on that decal! Not much to go on there, so congrats!
The Farmsaw is a great runner with a good balance between power and weight. I've bought, rebuilt and sold a couple of them to friends and they are still going strong years later. The guys love them!
The Farmsaw is a great runner with a good balance between power and weight. I've bought, rebuilt and sold a couple of them to friends and they are still going strong years later. The guys love them!
Latest on the Pioneer 700D. After getting primer working and going thru the carby once, the saw would run out well enough but not idle worth a darn. Changed the crank seals and the o-ring in the rear handle but the symptoms persisted. I ended up stealing the carby off my 090AV and swapping it into this saw. Didn't have to fool with the throttle shaft. I left the choke shaft installed minus the butterfly. Now the saw runs and idles perfectly.
Unless you are a Pioneer guy you would probably never realize the carb was swapped out.
Plus, I have finally found a use for this .050 gauge GB roller nose bar I picked up years ago. It was meant for the big Dolmars (none of which I had at the time), but I was told would fit the big Stihls. The slot was wide enough, but the tail was far too narrow. With an adapter or 2, the bar fits this saw pretty well.
Chris B.
Unless you are a Pioneer guy you would probably never realize the carb was swapped out.
Plus, I have finally found a use for this .050 gauge GB roller nose bar I picked up years ago. It was meant for the big Dolmars (none of which I had at the time), but I was told would fit the big Stihls. The slot was wide enough, but the tail was far too narrow. With an adapter or 2, the bar fits this saw pretty well.
Chris B.
The Tillotson HL is a good carb. to use on a lot of big cc older saws, Pioneers used a lot of them and most models can be swapped over to the Tillotson carbs be it either HL, HS or HK. The Tillotson carbs can keep many saws running when kits are hard to find for OMC, Bing and McCulloch flat back carbs.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
I tried like heck to save the OMC, but the pumper diaphragm must have pinhole or something else. When the OMC kits come out, I may give it another go.
Unfortunately, I have crippled my 090AV fixing this 700. I will have to find a carb to replace it.
Arrowhead said:
Thanks. Time well spent. Tomorrow I will pulling the gear cover off my 850 to find out why the clutch slips and the chain turns at idle.
Chris B.
Drain the oil before pulling. Going to try heating the case around the bearing bwile pulling the side off?
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
Yep. Got a fancy heat gun just for this job. I'm betting I'll use it a lot more often afterwards, starting with the big-time 850 rebuild.
Chris B.
Good choice on choosing the carb for the 700, A 13/64" venturi carb is right on the money for a 107-137 cc engine. The Stihl 070 used an HL 331A with a 13/64 venturi, so does the HL 244A and HL 324A that was used on the 090.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
Unlike you, I'm not particularly creative or inventive. I tend to stand on the shoulders of giants. In this case, Hoss suggested the 070/090 carb. He also said I would have to swap throttle shafts, which wasn't necessary for my saw. That probably has to do with the differences between the governed and ungoverned 700/750s.
Nevermind that, I always get my saws running!
Chris B.
Definitely a lot simpler and easier to work on than the HP 13A.
It's easy to see it was the first diaphragm carb they made.
Didn't take Tillotson long to go leaps and bounds over the Mac flatbacks.:silly:
Chris B.
Chris B.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I agree that the HL is a better carb than the flatback macs, at least from a repair and maintenance standpoint........................but I believe the HL is an older design than the flatbacks. McCulloch was still using their own crazy-complicated in house designed "carburetor systems" in the saws they sold through the end of the '50s and into the early '60s (in saws such as the 33/35/39 family, 3-25, 4-30, 7-55, 47, 49, 73, and 77 amoung others). These carburetor 'systems' were built into the engine, fuel tank, and case castings of the saws. Meanwhile, Homelite introduced the EZ (followed by the EZ-6 and the Zip family and others) which sported the first of the Tillotson HL's..........the HL1. Other manufacturers such as Mono, McCulloch, Roper, and Poulan followed suit.
Most McCulloch designs of the early '60s (15, 1-40/50 family, 200/250/300/380, 1-60/70/80 family, etc) used various versions of the Tillotson HL, until they decided to run primer and choke versions of their Walbro/McCulloch flatbacks instead. Many models of McCullochs were available at one time or another with either Tilly HL's, primer-flatbacks, or choke-flatbacks. My IPL's are full of 'em...
Some have argued that the flatbacks (especially the primer versions) flow better than HL's of the same venturi size. I don't believe it makes enough of a difference to keep me from switching my flatback equipped McCullochs over to Tillotson HLs...
Last edited:
hoss
Addicted to ArboristSite
Glad the HL swap worked out for you Chris, especially without having to swap throttle shafts. I couldn't get around it in my swap. You are right about the HL's in relation to the Mac flatbacks too. I just did the HL conversion on a Mac 550 and it worked out great.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
I'm going to do the same swap with both my McCulloch 550 and Super 250. Some prior owner already did the swap on my McCulloch 790, and I may end up doing the swap on RandyMac's 790 as well.
Similar threads
- Locked
