JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
This is what i made for my saw i dont know if this is the one you hawe seen .
IS THAT THE STUD OUTA AN OLD BALL JOINT? NICE JOB BONDEN!!! I'D REP YA BUT AM FRESH OUT. WILL WHEN I'M RELOADED.
Powerhead holding fixture
- Thread starter WidowMaker
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IS THAT THE STUD OUTA AN OLD BALL JOINT? NICE JOB BONDEN!!! I'D REP YA BUT AM FRESH OUT. WILL WHEN I'M RELOADED.
I'll be copying that real soon! I already have a range of ball bearings in my hot little hands, 1", 1.5", 1.75 and a big 2".
What size is yours?
Mr. Obvious
ArboristSite Operative
I'll try to get one for you.
Here is my first go at making one of these stands.
If part of the bracket looks like a bicycle fork that is because it is!
I did that because wanted to locate the ball closer to the line of the COG of a saw. This means the ball can be smaller and less locking force will be needed for when the saw is vertical. This bit works well.
However, the ball is too small, so the range of movement is somewhat limited. I'll probably modify this sometime using a bigger ball.
BTW this is a milling saw which is why it has longer bar bolts.
If part of the bracket looks like a bicycle fork that is because it is!
I did that because wanted to locate the ball closer to the line of the COG of a saw. This means the ball can be smaller and less locking force will be needed for when the saw is vertical. This bit works well.
However, the ball is too small, so the range of movement is somewhat limited. I'll probably modify this sometime using a bigger ball.
BTW this is a milling saw which is why it has longer bar bolts.
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Paul001
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is my first go at making one of these stands.
If part of the bracket looks like a bicycle fork that is because it is!
I did that because wanted to locate the ball closer to the line of the COG of a saw. This means the ball can be smaller and less locking force will be needed for when the saw is vertical. This bit works well.
However, the ball is too small, so the range of movement is somewhat limited. I'll probably modify this sometime using a bigger ball.
BTW this is a milling saw which is why it has longer bar bolts.
Try your local auto parts store. Pick up a 2 5/16 ball hitch.
Like your idea, just think that handle is going to get in your way. Having seen some of your creations, I'm sure once you get this sorted out, we'll all be wanting to copy your design.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Looking good! Another source for a bigger ball, is a bearing from a piece of heavy equipment... If you have a repair place/dealer nearby... They'll most likely just give you an old ball bearing.
Yep - I already have a range of ball bearings and I did start with the 2" but it looked silly so I went for the 1". I also have a 2 1/2", 1 7/8" and a 1 1/2".
Regarding the "handle", so far it seems to be useful but I will reserve judgement for a while. I can always cut it off if it bugs me.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
This one uses a 1 and3/4" ball with a 1 and 1/2" hole cut in the mounting plates, the ball is used mostly for rotation and there is another piece I add on if I want to turn saws 180 deg. for any reason. I will show a pict of it holding a saw in other positions.
Those old three piece hitch balls would be perfect. The ones with a ball, a center bolt, and a base. You could reassemble it with the clamping plate between the ball and the base.
You guys got me thinking that I need one of these handy dandy fixtures also, and since I got this Dayton to put back together (again!) I thought that I would make one for myself.
I like the designs you guys used, but thought I didn't need the bottom swivel since I would just mount it in my vice, which swivels anyway.
Since the weather here sucked today, I went out to the shop, cracked open a beer, looked in my scrap pile and ended up with this.
Thanks for the ideas.
I like the designs you guys used, but thought I didn't need the bottom swivel since I would just mount it in my vice, which swivels anyway.
Since the weather here sucked today, I went out to the shop, cracked open a beer, looked in my scrap pile and ended up with this.
Thanks for the ideas.
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bowtechmadman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks good everyone...lots of idea's. Think I have to try Mark's idea...I have an old vice in my scrap pile that will give me the swivel.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's mine. Made it about a year ago.
Dan
Dan
Here's mine. Made it about a year ago.
Dan
That is one fine looking piece of work, real professional knurled setscrews and all, makes my fixture lookcrude but they all do their intended job of making it easier to work on our CAD fuelled addiction.LOL
Pioneerguy600
demographic
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This is what i made for my saw i dont know if this is the one you hawe seen .
I know its been a long time since this thread has been posted on but a mate has just put a new bottom ball joint onto my van today and I have the old one.
After I get it to bits I think I'll be making a fixture rather like yours.
Cheers for the idea.
Scooterbum
Addicted to ArboristSite
Quick and simple is a cheap swivel ball vise and an old chain saw bar cut down to about 10".
Clamp in vise and attach saw.This way you still have a vise to use. And the only tool needed to make it is a hacksaw or cutoff wheel.
I have welding capabilities now but didn't always.
Clamp in vise and attach saw.This way you still have a vise to use. And the only tool needed to make it is a hacksaw or cutoff wheel.
I have welding capabilities now but didn't always.
Another idea
I am lacking the welding equipment and experience, so I will be trying another idea. Drum hardware has various kinds of locking ball joints for attaching toms to the rest of the kit. I know my older Tama kit has locking cams to make repositioning a lot easier. If the clamps can handle the weight of a drum plus me wailing on it, I think 12-15lbs of saw powerhead is no problem.
I've attached an image of a similar item to give an idea of the ball and clamp that I'd use to start with. Still not sure about the other parts or how to mount to a base, but that will come with experimentation.
My plan is to use one of my older clamps as a test, then find a better clamp and ball system. A workstand has got to be easier than wrestling that darned powerhead loose on the bench...
I am lacking the welding equipment and experience, so I will be trying another idea. Drum hardware has various kinds of locking ball joints for attaching toms to the rest of the kit. I know my older Tama kit has locking cams to make repositioning a lot easier. If the clamps can handle the weight of a drum plus me wailing on it, I think 12-15lbs of saw powerhead is no problem.
I've attached an image of a similar item to give an idea of the ball and clamp that I'd use to start with. Still not sure about the other parts or how to mount to a base, but that will come with experimentation.
My plan is to use one of my older clamps as a test, then find a better clamp and ball system. A workstand has got to be easier than wrestling that darned powerhead loose on the bench...
Last evening on Tzed250`s thread about where he added a piece to his powerhead I mentioned that I too had added a new piece to mine. On mine it is a bolt on fixture to hold my cylinder while grinding out the ports.
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