Revalving splitter to auto valve

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milkie62

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I built my first splitter back in 1990 and other than a hose breaking from a firewood chunk falling on it and the detent wearing out on the return stroke my splitter has been running flawless. 4x24 cylinder,11 gpm pump and 8 HP Briggs motor.I really do not have any help anymore so splitting has slowed a bit since its only me.And since it's only me I thought about putting an auto valve in it so I can go grab another piece of wood while the splitter is splitting.Are there some pictures of the setup for one of these so i can see how to run the hoses and fittings ? And is the valve called a 2 way detent ? I would somehow figure out a lockout should someone be with me splitting.
 
It's called an autocycle valve and I put one on my splitter years ago. You can use 1 handle like a typical setup or use both handles to make it autocycle. I am glad I did it.
 
I put an autocycle on mine but I'm running a power beyond to a 2 spool with a bypass. These pics may help and there are a lot of close up in the build link.

MVC-020S_11.JPG


MVC-021S_34.JPG
 
Was on the Timberwolf site and it looks like they do not do an auto valve anymore.

My guess is they got sued for somebody doing something stupid. People don't realize how many new products do not make it to production because engineers/manufacturers first thoughts are about liability and lawsuits. So sad.
 
http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/AutoCycleManual.pdf

Here's the directions from Prince Hydraulic. Back when I bought my valve they didn't offer power beyond on the auto-cycle valves, so mine was the second in line behind another rd-5200 Prince valve for the log lift and 4-way wedge adjust. Now you can put the auto-cycle first if you want.

Don
 
My guess is they got sued for somebody doing something stupid. People don't realize how many new products do not make it to production because engineers/manufacturers first thoughts are about liability and lawsuits. So sad.
Some of the best machinery cannot be operated by an idiot!

Unfortunately the cost to engineer around stupidity apparently has no ceiling....

I'd reckon average equipment is 20% inflated cost because of stupid proof, and even then it still isn't what it could be for performance.

A good example is I personally hate chainsaw chains with safety links. They worked fine without them. Just adds cost, that intelligent people need to pay for, because of the idiot!

Sent from my One using Tapatalk
 
http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/AutoCycleManual.pdf

Here's the directions from Prince Hydraulic. Back when I bought my valve they didn't offer power beyond on the auto-cycle valves, so mine was the second in line behind another rd-5200 Prince valve for the log lift and 4-way wedge adjust. Now you can put the auto-cycle first if you want.

Don


I looked at Nothern Tool and they show 2-5200 series valves.Went on chat and they said they could not help me since it may cause problems.So now I am trying to figure out which one to get.
 
I looked at Nothern Tool and they show 2-5200 series valves.Went on chat and they said they could not help me since it may cause problems.So now I am trying to figure out which one to get.
I'd give them a call. When I wanted to rebuild my splitter I got a hold of a very knowledgeable gal that hooked me right up. You might have been chatting with the wrong person.
 
I'd give them a call. When I wanted to rebuild my splitter I got a hold of a very knowledgeable gal that hooked me right up. You might have been chatting with the wrong person.

sounds good.I am going to build another splitter but until then I would like to speed things up a tad with my current one.
 
If you want to have a log lift / 4 way adjust in addition to the auto cycle valve you have two choices. Either put the autocycle first or last. If you put it first you need this valve:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...O-CYCLE-LOG-SPLITTER-VALVE-W-PB-9-6587-PB.axd
If you put the autocycle at the end you need this one:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...INCE-AUTO-CYCLE-LOG-SPLITTER-VALVE-9-6587.axd
or with SAE oring ports (less leaks)
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...CYCLE-VALVE-SAE-PORTS-3000-PSI-9-6587-SAE.axd

If you put the autocycle at the end, the valves upstream should have a powerbeyond port. This would be my choice for an upstream valve as it has SAE ports. You should buy a powerbeyond plug. I ran return hoses to both valves. They teed together ahead of the return filter.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...ves/2-SPOOL-PRINCE-VALVE-SAE-PORTS-9-7875.axd

Surplus center does have better descriptions and pictures and manuals for most of their hydraulic stuff. I started buying my stuff at Northern but ended up buying my hydraulic supplies at Surplus Center. Hoses, fittings, the whole gamut. There JIC end hoses are cheaper than what the local build your hose while you wait guy will charge for the fittings. They have worked great for me, no issues and it't been 6 years in use.
 
I bought my autocycle valve from Cylinder Services. That was also a pleasant buying experience.
 
I replaced my worn out valve with a double detent valve. It only has one lever with a detent in both forward and reverse, both set to the same pressure. Main difference to an auto valve is it does not automatically go from forward to reverse.

I feel it has increased my productivity a good bit and also has some other benefits. I split my larger rounds in the vertical position (no log lift or table, just your basic personal use MTD splitter) and it allows me to use two hands to get the bigger rounds in position. The other good thing was that it was a "bolt on" part, no changes to any hoses, etc... (not sure if you would need to add hoses, etc for an autocycle).

Bad part is that it adds another element of danger you need to pay attention to, same as autocycle. Also, the reverse detent takes high pressure to pop it so I don't just let it go. I try to catch it before it stops so it does not dead end before the detent pops. I am not sure if letting it pop on it's own would be bad for the splitter, it is just what I do now. I could lower the pressure needed, but the setting it is at now is good for the splitting stroke and I don't want to change that (splits everything but bad knots without popping out). With autocycle I am guessing you could set different pressures for the split stroke vs return.

Brian.
 
I have seal issues, if I don't pay attention, putting 3500psi on the return pukes oil out my home made wiper.

Piston probably leaks too, but that doesn't cause a mess.

Sent from my One using Tapatalk
 
Which auto valve depends on two things. Power beyond or not, and which type of fittings to get to match existing ones.

Can I use a power beyond valve if nothing is plumbed beyond? As in maybe a future (second) log lift, or hydraulic winch.
Second, how do I identify the type of fittings or size ports I have on my TW-6?

The valve is an LS-3000, but the schematic supplied by Timberwolf is a 'typical'.
 
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