stihl 020 av

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bagman69

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My first post. I just picked up a stihl 020 av can any one tell me how to split the thing apart? I just can't figure it out I have the screws all out i think. Can anyone give me a step by step instruction on how to separate the two halves. ??? thanks I hope
 
check in the stickies section for the beg for manuals thread, post there and you should have all the info you need. Good luck and congrates on the saw:msp_thumbup:
 
just go to the last post and ask for an IPL and manual. somebody will hook you up. just of the top of my head i can remember that you need to unbolt the carb.
 
My first post. I just picked up a stihl 020 av can any one tell me how to split the thing apart? I just can't figure it out I have the screws all out i think. Can anyone give me a step by step instruction on how to separate the two halves. ??? thanks I hope

When you think you gottem all out........theres one bolt left :redface:
 
thanks again

just go to the last post and ask for an IPL and manual. somebody will hook you up. just of the top of my head i can remember that you need to unbolt the carb.

new to this site trying to figure out all the german confusing. or whatever language is on my screen lol
 
Id have to see it. Been a while since I had one on my bench. I do remember thinking to myself that all the bolts are out........RIGHT?

Just go ahead.....go nuts....take em all out. Good practice for ya.

"The problem is i have to pull the whole thing apart to get to the carb or do i no access to the carb at all"?

I believe the answer to that question is "YES".......

They are not my favorite saw to work on......tis why this one didnt live long in my stable.
IMG_0031-3.jpg
 
saw

Id have to see it. Been a while since I had one on my bench. I do remember thinking to myself that all the bolts are out........RIGHT?

Just go ahead.....go nuts....take em all out. Good practice for ya.

"The problem is i have to pull the whole thing apart to get to the carb or do i no access to the carb at all"?

I believe the answer to that question is "YES".......

They are not my favorite saw to work on......tis why this one didnt live long in my stable.
IMG_0031-3.jpg

Thanks for the pic decided not to tear down, just wanted to do it to clean the thing up inside. Mine must be newer because my 020av is a plate and not molded in like that one LOL. Got her running but have a little idle issue after i bang on it a couple of times. Wants to stall. But if i feather it like 6 times it will begin to idle fine again. Runs great on high speeds. Got the H n L back to spec and played with the LA. Only thing that is odd is that the fuel line in the tank is not OEM, the filter is stilhl but the line is just a piece of straight fuel line like on a lawnmower. Don't know if that would make a difference or not. do you know if it would matter? Anyway thanks for the comeback. What an awesome site have learned a lot in a short time.:clap:
 
Good on you for stopping before getting too deep. This particular saw will test your patience if you decide to dive in. :angry:
 
With this model, the 020, will over time, hammer the clutch side bearing into the case. My thinking was that the PO of my 020 tightened the chain too tight over the years. These saws came with the hard nose bar and a 1/4 pitch chain. I invested in a factory 3/8 picco kit.

My saw developed the same issue yours has. It won't be long before your saw won't run at all. If you can, do a leak down test. That is how I knew it needed a going over. I tore the saw apart and machined the case(clutch side.) Machined a bushing out of aluminum and with heat and the freezer, pressed in the bushing and machined it to fit the bearing tight. Honed the cylinder and put new rings on the piston and resurrected my little saw.

Yes, it was a lot of work, but I just had to do it. The saw still screams through wood 9 years later.
Good luck with yours.:msp_smile:
 
wow

With this model, the 020, will over time, hammer the clutch side bearing into the case. My thinking was that the PO of my 020 tightened the chain too tight over the years. These saws came with the hard nose bar and a 1/4 pitch chain. I invested in a factory 3/8 picco kit.

My saw developed the same issue yours has. It won't be long before your saw won't run at all. If you can, do a leak down test. That is how I knew it needed a going over. I tore the saw apart and machined the case(clutch side.) Machined a bushing out of aluminum and with heat and the freezer, pressed in the bushing and machined it to fit the bearing tight. Honed the cylinder and put new rings on the piston and resurrected my little saw.

Yes, it was a lot of work, but I just had to do it. The saw still screams through wood 9 years later.
Good luck with yours.:msp_smile:

I hope i don't have to go thru all that my biggest thing is i just want to be able to split the shell because someone put a differnt carb in it because they drilled a new whole in the case for the LA adjustment. My original LA hole has nothing in it. the new whole is in the seam about 1 inch below the H n L adjustment and 1 inch to the left of the original LA hole that is where i adjust the chain to slow down on the bar. I will get some pics and post soon to show you all.:bang:
 
Yep. Looks like some replaced the carb with a newer version. Take a close peak on the intake boot. They are strange looking and they do rot away. I would rebuild it and run it. Yes it's not original but it looks good. More than likely someone had issues with the old carb because of welch plug leaking or the saw wouldn't idle and replaced it with a different model.
 
carb

Yep. Looks like some replaced the carb with a newer version. Take a close peak on the intake boot. They are strange looking and they do rot away. I would rebuild it and run it. Yes it's not original but it looks good. More than likely someone had issues with the old carb because of welch plug leaking or the saw wouldn't idle and replaced it with a different model.

Thanks for the comeback sefh

I have been also talking to a guy on the The Forestry forum and he has the same saw and it has the three holes in it like mine. The LA hole is plugged. Don't want to sound stupid but where is the intake boot. If it is inside that is my problem I don't know how to get it apart. I tried but gave up. I just wanted to clean it up good because it does run good. except the idle after you rap it a couple of times it wants to stall, but if i feather it about 6 times it will idle fine again.
 
Thanks for the comeback sefh

I have been also talking to a guy on the The Forestry forum and he has the same saw and it has the three holes in it like mine. The LA hole is plugged. Don't want to sound stupid but where is the intake boot. If it is inside that is my problem I don't know how to get it apart. I tried but gave up. I just wanted to clean it up good because it does run good. except the idle after you rap it a couple of times it wants to stall, but if i feather it about 6 times it will idle fine again.

This saw has a unique carb set up. The fuel line goes into the tank but doesn't connect directly into the carb. There is a fitting on the carb that pushes into the fuel line. ALso, the idle screw screws into a bracket on the carb. Hard to explain. The brackets usually break. This is more than likely what happened to your carb setup. So someone replaced it with a new carb that doesn't require this setup.
 

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