What to look for in a used stihl saw?

[WASTATE]

Hello, currently I am looking at several stihl 26's pro and non pro on craigslist. I want to buy one of these because that is what we use at work and I dont want to take a step down. I am not very experienced with saws and only mildly mechanically minded.

I was just wondering if there is any advice anyone can give me when I go and look to buy used saws.

My coworker told me to check the compression before I even try to start it by pulling on the cord, the saws I am looking at are in the $260-300 range, does this seem about right for a 026?

thanks!

 

[Guido Salvage]

Pull the muffler and check the condition of the piston and cylinder, any scoring is bad. The best way to check compression is with a tester, make sure it has a Shrader valve on it. Look at the condition of the plastic, check the air filter to see if it is in place and clean, check the condition of the fins on the cylinder.

Cheap saws are out there, this 026 set me back $45.00.

 

[z71mike]

That advice is a good start. Without the decompression button engaged, the rope should be pretty tight and jerk strong a couple times as it lengthens.

Part 2 - If it's a local seller who's a decent guy with nothing to hide, he should probably have no issue with you asking to pull the muffler so you can see if the cylinder and piston are clean, wet, and not scored. Make sure you bring a couple Torx drivers with you to remove the muffler bolts. A flashlight helps too when looking inside the exhaust.

Part 3 - And personally, I always like to look at the under side of a saw. If all the paint is gone, it tells me there's a good chance the saw has had a long life with a tree company, or a homeowner that doesn't care if the saw sits idling on pavement. It's not ALWAYS an indicator that it's a bad saw if it's missing paint........just that it's another thing I like to look for.

Part 4 - Pull the air filter cover and look at some of the steel pieces inside, i.e. ignition grounding clip on the left side of the throttle rod, throttle linkage running from the hand grip to the carb...............it's not easy to find steel on a magnesium/aluminum saw, but any signs of rust would tell me that the saw may have been stored outside, which is normally a deal breaker for me under normal circumstances.

I'm sure many others will chime in with some good advice too.

 

[rullywowr]

First off, I highly recommend you get a PRO saw - whatever you do. It will be faster, more reliable, stronger, lighter weight, better parts availability, more durable, and have higher resale value.

If you budget is $250 to $300...there are certainly some deals to be had however you aren't that far off from getting one new. For around the mid $500 range you could get a MS261 (or better yet a Husqvarna 550xp :msp_wub You don't want to buy a total pile of crap and say to yourself, "Self, if I only spent an extra $250 I would have a brand new great saw with warranty instead of this POS which doesn't even run or needs xxx amount of repair parts."

If you must have a used saw, see if you can check for compression, scoring on the cylinder walls (look through the muffler and plug hole if you are able). It seems way too often local jackasses have a saw that says "Stihl" or "Husqvarna" and think they are sitting on a pile of gold. Sheesh, one jerkweed in my area is trying to sell a 55cc Mac "Timberbear" for $700.

Bargains can be had if you have the time and patience. If you have those then wait it out, if you don't then either buy new or buy from a reputable member of the forum here. In the meantime, suck up as much information about which saws are actually worth it and which ones are "dogs" by perusing the forum here at AS. I would say great used pro saws are Stihl 026, 260, 261, and bigger even... For Husky check out 346, 372 and more...

 

[WASTATE]

First off, I highly recommend you get a PRO saw - whatever you do. It will be faster, more reliable, stronger, lighter weight, better parts availability, more durable, and have higher resale value.

If you budget is $250 to $300...there are certainly some deals to be had however you aren't that far off from getting one new. For around the mid $500 range you could get a MS261 (or better yet a Husqvarna 550xp :msp_wub You don't want to buy a total pile of crap and say to yourself, "Self, if I only spent an extra $250 I would have a brand new great saw with warranty instead of this POS which doesn't even run or needs xxx amount of repair parts."

If you must have a used saw, see if you can check for compression, scoring on the cylinder walls (look through the muffler and plug hole if you are able). It seems way too often local jackasses have a saw that says "Stihl" or "Husqvarna" and think they are sitting on a pile of gold. Sheesh, one jerkweed in my area is trying to sell a 55cc Mac "Timberbear" for $700.

Bargains can be had if you have the time and patience. If you have those then wait it out, if you don't then either buy new or buy from a reputable member of the forum here. In the meantime, suck up as much information about which saws are actually worth it and which ones are "dogs" by perusing the forum here at AS. I would say great used pro saws are Stihl 026, 260, 261, and bigger even... For Husky check out 346, 372 and more...

the difference between 250 and 500+ is big for me. I don't have much disposable income at the moment, but at the same time I don't want to waste my money by any means. So in that regard I am leaning more towards a used saw. I have a few "homeowner" type saws that just aren't cutting it for me. I want to be able to have the performance I have from my work saws. Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll do my best to check for "scoring" and everything else...

 

[computeruser]

the difference between 250 and 500+ is big for me. I don't have much disposable income at the moment, but at the same time I don't want to waste my money by any means. So in that regard I am leaning more towards a used saw. I have a few "homeowner" type saws that just aren't cutting it for me. I want to be able to have the performance I have from my work saws. Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll do my best to check for "scoring" and everything else...

You're on the right track. There is no need to buy new, certainly when you'd be looking at a 100% price increase to do so. Pop the muffler cover, take a peek around, and see what you've got.

$200-250 is the going rate for a clean, working 026. Any more than that and it better be like-new, since they're hardly a scarce model. I've bought and sold a handful of that model over the years, never sold one for more than $250 even with a new bar on it.

 

[axlr8]

The 026 and 026 pro....ARE pro saws. Most definately worth their name aswell. I am trying to source one out aswell...But I have a lower than normal budget. All said above is good advice,
One thing I like to look at is the ribs on the recoil side. Some 026's had a felling sight, a line vertically on the recoil and if this is rubbed clean of its paint..it has seen some nice use...As a pant leg is usually the only thing that gets in contact on this side. Just look it over for wear and tear really good!

 

[scallywag]

The first thing i do when looking at a 2nd hand saws is.......pick the saw up by the front handle to chest hight in your left hand, take the starter handle in your right hand now release your left hand, if it runs down its own starter cord like a yoyo, leave it where it is. :msp_wink:

 

[Whiskers]

First of all if your paying top dollar for a used saw it should be in great shape.

Here's the 4 things I usually do with a used saw purchase.

1. Visual inspection, this has been covered by earlier posters. Take note of any excessive wear. I also pull the starter rope a couple times making sure it pulls smooth without grinding.

2. Pull the muffler and look at piston looking for scoring.

3. I always pull the clutch cover, take off the bar and chain and give the crank a wiggle. If its got a play in it the bearings are on the way out.

4. Lastly, I start the saw. The saw should idle correctly. Obvious signs of a problem would be a high idle and the chain spinning while idling. The chain spin could just be an idle adjustment. If it idles abnormally high its a sign pointing toward an air leak. If an 026 has an air leak its usually a clutch side crank seal.

I combine these into what I'm willing to pay for a saw. Top dollar should have no issues and go from there.

 

[tallguys]

FWIW, I always try to find good used deals. Much better for someone else to take the depreciation hit. If I was in the tree business I might consider new what with warranty, etc...

Like z71mike, I also look at the cosmetics because if the saw is really banged up or missing paint it's usually through heavy use or neglect, sometimes both.

All the other recommendations are bang on. Bring a compression tester with you. They're only about $10 and can save you a ton of grief.

The Stihl 026 and MS260 are very popular saws around here both with municipalities and arborists. Good luck with your shopping. :msp_smile:

 

[SawTroll]

Find one that says Husqvarna 346xp on it! :yoyo:

 

[tallguys]

Find one that says Husqvarna 346xp on it! :yoyo:

But he said that he doesn't want to take a step down... :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Vibes]

Don't be affraid of buying that junker either. If the price is right of course. 026 parts are everywhere, and the aftermarket is full of good suitable and affordable replacements.

 

[roundhead]

I looked on the Seattle Craigslist and it seems that the prices are a bit higher than what I am used to here in this area. the one in shoreline looks good; it has a new bar. if it has good compression and the piston looks ok and you need a saw now, offer him $200 and see what happens.

 

[WASTATE]

I looked on the Seattle Craigslist and it seems that the prices are a bit higher than what I am used to here in this area. the one in shoreline looks good; it has a new bar. if it has good compression and the piston looks ok and you need a saw now, offer him $200 and see what happens.

wow, I appreciate you checking that out for me haha. Yea I was looking at that one too, I have some things in the works. Now I feel better that I have some things to look for

 

[KenJax Tree]

Check this one out.


http://www.arboristsite.com/classifieds.php?do=viewitem&itemid=3394

 

[Magnumfloyd]

Pull the muffler and check the condition of the piston and cylinder, any scoring is bad. The best way to check compression is with a tester, make sure it has a Shrader valve on it. Look at the condition of the plastic, check the air filter to see if it is in place and clean, check the condition of the fins on the cylinder.

Cheap saws are out there, this 026 set me back $45.00.

I will give ya 65 shipped to take that 026 off your hands

 

[rullywowr]

The first thing to look for when buying a used Stihl is to make sure the saw is orange and says "Husqvarna" somewhere on it. otstir::greenchainsaw:

 

[tallguys]

The first thing to look for when buying a used Stihl is to make sure the saw is orange and says "Husqvarna" somewhere on it. otstir::greenchainsaw:

... and then avoid it like the plague... :msp_tongue:

 

[H 2 H]

Like what is said above about checking the saw out

I'm about hour drive north of you up I-5

OP just seat back and wait for the right saw to come to market there are plenty of 026 and 026 PRO here in the PNW seems I see a few real good ones each month and at good price you'll see them between $100 to $200

Check out the smaller towns saw shops and you might surprise yourself what you'll find don't forget pawn shops this time of year either