Wood Stove 500 Degrees??

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Cambium

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My double insulated flu is not magnetic. So I placed the thermometer on top of the stove.

How do I get an accurate reading because to warm the rooms this thermometer shows I need it near 450 degrees which is still inside the "Burn Zone" but I'm worried it's actually to hot for the flu! Any suggestions or comments?

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LOL... Didn't even think about that but I wasn't worried about the thermometer...I was worried about a fire, the door seal, the window, and my house. LOL
 
Most stove owners manuals tell you where on the stove surface to place thermometer for meaningful readings

Jotul Firelight sez aft corner
 
It's hard to tell from the picture how far away from the walls you are, but you might want to put some heat shielding up on those walls behind the stove.
 
The manual for my Jotul F3 says:

"Once the stove has reached a surface temperature range
of between 400° and 600°, adjust the primary air control
lever as necessary to generate the heat output and burn
time desired.

Jøtul recommends the use of a magnetic stove top
thermometer to monitor the surface temperature of the
stove. The optimum surface temperature range for the
most efficient burn is between 400° and 600°."


The diagram below this text indicates the best location for a magnetic surface thermometer is on the top of the stove, to the left or right of the stovepipe, centered front to back on the stove and centered left to right in the space between the edge of the stovepipe and the edge of the stove.
 
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Now that we got that solved, let's talk about woodboxes...

LMAO.. Nahh, I just threw those down this morning because rain was coming for next 4 days and I was in a rush. I use my fireplace pit to stack the rest of them nicely. :)

I'm assuming you're talking about the messy wood pile in my living room. lol
 
Those thermometers are not that accurate anyway, I think they could be off by at least ± 50F.

That's true. I borrowed a good quality IR thermometer from a neighbor and found the magnetic thermometer I use to be pretty accurate. If you can, I suggest checking accuracy of the magnetic thermometer somehow.

Also, as you use your stove you will get to know it pretty well, and you'll have a pretty good idea if it's operating too cold or too hot before you check the thermometer.
 
My 2 VC magnetic thermos are very accurate compared to my sears IR gun. They are only about 6 inches apart on top of my stove and give different readings. Thought one was bad but both are pretty accurate. Suprising how much the temp can vary by just moving the thermo a few inches.
 
That's true. I borrowed a good quality IR thermometer from a neighbor and found the magnetic thermometer I use to be pretty accurate. If you can, I suggest checking accuracy of the magnetic thermometer somehow.

Also, as you use your stove you will get to know it pretty well, and you'll have a pretty good idea if it's operating too cold or too hot before you check the thermometer.

Unless you get a really expensive infrared thermometer those IRs are not that accurate either, the accuracy they publish is at optimum conditions and depend on the surface type. Those Rutland thermometers are really not accurate, you can get lucky and get one that is a little more accurate. But you are correct about getting to know your stove, you can really tell buy looking at the fire, how fast the flames move and how much fire is roaring. I find that the best efficiency, not maximum heat, is when you chock it and then give a little more air just to get the flames going again. This is when the stove is at least within 30 to 45 minuets from a cold start.

When I first start the stove I open the damper and air intake all the way and leave the door a crack open for 10-15 minuets (I use a screen for safety). Then I close the door and let it burn good for another 15 to 30 minuets depending on the wood type/condition, then I close the damper all the way and leave the air intake just a little open.
 
The back of stove has a heat sheild but the sides dont. The closest point to the wall is 9 inches and the other side is 11 inches. The sheetrock gets warm to the touch but I can hold my hand on it. According to manufactuer it needs to be 7 inches away at least. http://www.vermontcastings.com/catalog/elements/files/2006/1000_6017HiEfWdSt_v5_1005.pdf


Last year I just put a peice of backerboard back there and took it out for the summer...I may do that again. Those tiles are not cemented to the floor either. They can lift right up saving the hardwood floors. :) :)
 
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