Zama C2S carb question

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Arrowhead

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I'm rebuilding a Zama C2S carb. I pulled the bottom metering plate off and the diaphragm and plastic piece just fell out. The metering diaphragm does not have the circular metal piece like most. This one uses a plastic piece (#15) that just sits on it...(I think).
My question is... does #15 just sit on the lever (#1)? It seems it would float around and come off the lever. I wish they woulda use a normal metering diaphragm.... I hate Zamas.

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I suppose there may be an advantage in that the diaphragm does not have to have a hole in it where the metal plate is attached, eliminating a possible stress/failure point. But probably it's just cheaper.
 
I have a Homelite mini xl that takes that carb, but mine has a tilly HK 2b8 that apparently does not exist in the tilly parts world. Also a walbro hdc-65 also will fit on this saw.

I am trying to find a re-build kit for the tilly, or a replacement carb. any help???

what saw does that carb go to???
 
I just rebuilt a Zama C1S - The plastic disc should have a short post on one side that mates into a hole in the metering lever - Once the diaphragm is in place it should stay in position but if you're missing the post then it may not.
 
I just rebuilt a Zama C1S - The plastic disc should have a short post on one side that mates into a hole in the metering lever - Once the diaphragm is in place it should stay in position but if you're missing the post then it may not.

Is the post metal? The plastic disc has a small nipple on one side. If I remember correctly, it had a hole in it. Is that where the post goes? In the hole?
 
OK, I figured out what happened. The little stud that is on top of the nipple is broke off. It must have broke when I took it apart and I never noticed it.
Now to try and figure out what I could use to make a new stud.

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Just drill it out and press in a short bit of rod, or wire that will fit the hole in the metering lever. If you could make a small counterbore in the bottom side you could probable even thread in a small screw.

For that matter, you could probably that the metal plate from a more conventional diaphragm and glue it to the plastic after you cut the boss off.

No charge for the advice either...

Mark
 
Fixed it. I used a 1/16" drill and went through the disc. I used a piece of zip-tie to make the stud. It fit tight, but I still glued it in. Yes.... it's all fuel proof.
Thanks for the help guys. :cheers:

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Yup, looks broke. can u get just a replacement plastic part???

I would try some Q-bond and make a new stud, or jb weld. Q-bond dries in minutes and can be sanded to yer proper size.
 
Just drill it out and press in a short bit of rod, or wire that will fit the hole in the metering lever. If you could make a small counterbore in the bottom side you could probable even thread in a small screw.

For that matter, you could probably that the metal plate from a more conventional diaphragm and glue it to the plastic after you cut the boss off.

No charge for the advice either...

Mark

LOL... I was doing basically what you said while you were typing. :)
 
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so, i just had the problem of missing this little plastic disk. i had the idea of modifying a golf ball marker. it worked very well. just had to file down the post to workable size. not sure if the fuel will melt it over time but so far so good. EDIT---- IT MELTED. WAS GOOD FOR A DAY OR TWO. I LEFT IT TILL TODAY AND NO START. DISASSEMBLED AND IT WAS GOOP.
 
Use the broken original ND use the right size piano wire. Drill a pilot hole slightly smaller and press it in, then cut it to the length you need. Get the piano wire as close to the hole size as you can so it won' move around.
 
mine never had the little plastic disk. i got the saw with a disassembled carb missing pieces. after i fixed mine with the golf ball marker(which never do, its melted into every passage at this point) i acquired an actual disk. i used my spare carb body and mix and matched up a working carb.
 
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