MS180 vs PS-401 vs G3800AVS

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Anyone care to comment on the Efco MT4000 or Solo 642? Does either one have a pro-style build with a vertically split magnesium case and seperate cylinder?

I'm still searching for a used Shinny 377 to check out.
 
blsnelling said:
Anyone care to comment on the Efco MT4000 or Solo 642? Does either one have a pro-style build with a vertically split magnesium case and seperate cylinder?
Click to expand...

The Solo might, but I suspect the MT4000 is going to look like a stratocharged version of my John Deere CS-36LE, which looks just like my Husky 36.
 
Would there be any interest in buying a brand new Redmax 3800 already ported and muffler modded for $400 + shipping? This is the saw that I ran with a 16" bar against a MS200T with a 12" bar and the Redmax was significantly faster. Read the rest of this thread if you have questions on the build quality of this saw. The purpose of this post is to guage interest before purchasing the saws.

The only clip I have of it is this one here where I compared it to my ported MS180. In the middle where it's free revving, I'm actually checking the RPMs with a tach.

 
blsnelling said:
Would there be any interest in buying a brand new Redmax 3800 already ported and muffler modded for $400 + shipping?
Click to expand...

Well, speaking for myself I'm too cheap to spend real money on a 37cc saw, but for others I think it would depend on how much power the standard saw makes with the muffler drilled out.
 
blsnelling said:
I'll only be buying the saws if I get enough interest in a ported saw. It's sure a lot cheaper than a MS200 and faster to boot.
Click to expand...

I meant to say that the demand for ported saws might depend on the added value (power) over a quick and simple muffler mod. If a muffler modded G3800 makes 2.7-3.0hp (not likely), then there's no need for a ported saw.
It sounds like your ported G3800 is running a good bit stronger than a stock 2.4hp GZ4000.

BTW, I took my Ryobi 10532/Redmax GZ400 out of the box today. When it isn't trying to lean out and die, it's stronger (and a lot quieter) than my Husky 36. This saw is in serious need of a carb adjustment. When I got it warm enough to run halfway decent, I couldn't get the chain to stop.
 
taxmantoo said:
Well, speaking for myself I'm too cheap to spend real money on a 37cc saw, but for others I think it would depend on how much power the standard saw makes with the muffler drilled out.
Click to expand...

taxmantoo said:
I meant to say that the demand for ported saws might depend on the added value (power) over a quick and simple muffler mod. If a muffler modded G3800 makes 2.7-3.0hp (not likely), then there's no need for a ported saw.
It sounds like your ported G3800 is running a good bit stronger than a stock 2.4hp GZ4000.
Click to expand...

Getting ready to answer that question for ya.

I finally got around to picking up a 3800 for myself :D Been running it a bit today trying to get it broke in some so I can do an honest "before and after" for you guys. Right now it's bone stock with 16" bar and to be fair I did put a real chain on it and properly tuned the carb. Limbed several trees we lost in the ice this past week and just for fun I dropped an 18" pine with it..... it takes a light touch and you can time it with an hour glass with the bar buried but it handled it no problem. She ain't impressive but she gets the job done. :cheers:


blsnelling said:
I finally picked up a Shinny 377 off eBay today. Stay tuned for a full report once it arrives.
Click to expand...

:popcorn: Looking forward to it.
 
I've taken the muffler mod further on my Makita DCS401 than you did the Dolmar PS-401. My saw would only rev 13K by just enlarging the outlet on the muffler. After drilling (3) 3/8" holes in the inner baffle and covering with screen, it would rev 14,200+. I tuned it in wood today, and the sweet spot seems to be 13,600-13,800 no load.
 
excess650
I modified the inner baffle on mine as well. I was wondering if anything to be gained by removing it all together? Or does it just get louder? Maybe I should do an experiment like Brad S.
I still have trouble posting pictures.
 
blsnelling said:
I'm trying to decide what little triming saw I'm going to keep. It's down to the ported MS180 I already have, the Dolmar PS-401, or the Redmax G3800AVS. My Dad has a stock MS180 to compare to my ported one. I've got a 401 here stock other than a muffler mod. I'm also considering buying a G3800AVS for comparison as well. Ideally, I would run all three stock saws in the same 10" Poplar log I have here. I'd then port the Dolmar and Redmax and compare them with my 180. I'm not sure if my ambition will last that long though. My search is driven with the hopes of finding a replacement for the 180 that has a vertically split magnesium case and bolt on cylinder. RPMs are important on a trimming/limbing saw. My MS180 turns 14,400. The 401 was 12,000 stock but is already at 13,200 with just a muffler mod. The 3800 is 13,000 stock. A couple questions. Which saw is best build, most durable? Will either saw equal or out perform my ported 180 once ported? Which one would you buy? I'm not interested in any other suggestions for saws that are over 9.5 lbs or don't have a pro style construction. I have a MS260 for that. Here are links to the above three saws. MS180, PS-401, G3800AVS
Click to expand...



Look into a Stihl Ms 200t.
 
Termite said:
excess650
I modified the inner baffle on mine as well. I was wondering if anything to be gained by removing it all together? Or does it just get louder? Maybe I should do an experiment like Brad S.
I still have trouble posting pictures.
Click to expand...

I removed the inner baffle(inner front cover not perforated tube) just to see IF it was the problem. The bottom corner on the recoil side proved to be the bottleneck. If you don't mind running without screen, its the easy way to solve the problem. It does make more noise, but power improves considerably.
 
Last edited:
Thanx for all the info. Yesterday I decided to do exhaust mods on my GMC, PCH37. Looks identical to redmax 3800avs, maybe the same as US ryobi? Anyway, bought new for US$45, as GMC have gone bust. One problem though, the saw sounded too rich following mods & idle too high. I went to tune L & H but there is no screwdriver slot! Just metal cylinders. I dont know if these are covers. I have followed threads about US style plastic caps, but these are metal and do not turn.

Any thoughts/ideas?

will post some pics when phone is charged
 
chargrille said:
I went to tune L & H but there is no screwdriver slot! Just metal cylinders.
Click to expand...


My Ryobi seemed to be cylinders at first glance, but behind the cylindrical stub was a Double D shape (like a circle with two sides cut flat). I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut crude screwdriver slots in the screws, but the real tool (which I eventually bought from eBay) works a lot better.

There are also single D screws and something that most people call "pacman" heads on some Ryobi/Homelite OPE.


taxmantoo said:
I now have the Homelite part number for the Double D carb screwdriver.

It's 308535002.

Found them on eBay for as little as $6.21 delivered.
Wish I'd found that before I took the carb off the saw and dremeled the heck out of it. The engine vibrates enough that I can't adjust it running with the slotted screw heads, so I'm going to buy the double D socket driver to make things easier on me.
Click to expand...
 

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