post a pic of your wood stove/chimney in action

post a pic of your wood stove/chimney in action

here's a pic of my custom JUCA fireplace in full swing with green wood. Stihl O64 did the duties three weeks ago. cost me $1,850 w/extras shipped. aprox. 150,000 btu fan driven output. 12 cubic feet firebox. chunk of wood shown is 2ft x 8in

chimney pic was taken at same time, showing how much smoke is being produced.
no catalytic converter or chimney liners needed. insert uses original firebrick floor, gas log lighter, floor ash dump and flue controls.

Proof is in the pudding! Please post a pic of your wood heater w/chimney in action...

Woodstock Soap Stone Running On High

Pacific Energy Summit.

Secondary burn: http://invite.filmloop.com/x?TiGQ7F6rkWljtamOMeI1Ev2k1CLKdfik

<img src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a97/Roospike/FOURM/P.jpg">
<img src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a97/Roospike/PE%20Summit/PA120520.jpg">
<img src="http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a97/Roospike/1-1.jpg">

rspike, looks like a CLEAN burn!

Fire

My first fire this weekend. I have 20 yr old indoor wood furnace. First pic is the fire.



Second pic is obviously an early attempt to route the escaping smoke to the front of the furnace and back out the flue in the rear. I saw an earlier post about adding secondairy burn to some kind of stove, but this set-up looks ideal. I am visualizing a stainless baffle attached to the bottom of the current upper chamber. Secondairy air fed through the existing open area and plumed to the new stainless baffle right above the fire. When the blower is not feeding air directly in the fire box .. ie ideling. The air wood feed the secondairy burn chamber directly above the fire. Thoughts, comments???

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Very DANGEROUS situation!

if smoke is coming out front of wood stove. carbon monoxide is also coming out. which can KILL you and others in enclosed area.

always run a carbon monoxide detector close by wood stove.

hautions11 said:

My first fire this weekend. I have 20 yr old indoor wood furnace. First pic is the fire.

Second pic is obviously an early attempt to route the escaping smoke to the front of the furnace and back out the flue in the rear. I saw an earlier post about adding secondairy burn to some kind of stove, but this set-up looks ideal. I am visualizing a stainless baffle attached to the bottom of the current upper chamber. Secondairy air fed through the existing open area and plumed to the new stainless baffle right above the fire. When the blower is not feeding air directly in the fire box .. ie ideling. The air wood feed the secondairy burn chamber directly above the fire. Thoughts, comments???

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Yes I have several detectors in the house.


What does that have to do with a theoretical secondairy burn chamber??

Pay no attention to him, hes been burning too much green wood.





For some odd reason he thinks you have actually caused smoke to exit the front of the stove as is comon with the JOOKAH.

Just finished installing it this morning...here's the first fire!!!

nothing and everything.... one main control we have for open burn wood stoves is the flue/damper. this controls rate smoke goes up chimey. slower smoke goes up... more time hot air spent in contact with heat exchanger = more heat captured.

drawback is danger of smoke backing out front door. leading to carbon monoxide poisoning.

didn't catch is your insert is a true open burn design?

reason I put my JUCA burns green wood is simple. that's the true test of how clean an wood stove burns. startup with green wood will smoke, but once JUCA reaches burning temps.... almost no further smoke/creosote is created. measured exit air temps can reach 235+ degrees with forced air blower going full speed.

yep.... it's true, been bragging that I can burn green logs 2ft X 1ft or larger. can go up to 2ft X 2ft, but it's get too heavy to drag around larger than that. naturally using logs that size gives long burn times.

kinda like having OWB capacity inside your house

hautions11 said:

Yes I have several detectors in the house.


What does that have to do with a theoretical secondairy burn chamber??

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The issue with burning green wood is it takes least 35% of the BTU energy from the log to dry before putting off any BTU heat of its own.

If you let wood season for 9 months cut and split from soft wood to low hard wood and up to 2 years on the med hard wood and high hard wood you will get the max BTU out of your fuel.

Imagine cutting 10 cords of wood and only getting 6 cords of real heat and BTUs off your work and effort and wasting 4 cords.

If you "wood burning unit" is say 50% efficient then you are getting 4 cords of heat for your 10 cords of wood. (also minus the 3 cords because it was green )

3 cords of heat off of 10 cords of wood is not a happy ending.

don't know if that's true or not, but sounds logical...

I can use green or seasoned wood in JUCA. Green wood burns slower and depending upon how much wood I load. can still get hot enough to run you out of the room.

with seasoned wood it gets really hot! to me it's all part of using different types of wood to control burntime and output.

I have a large supply of both seasoned and green wood. naturally the seasoned hardwoods gets saved for when it gets really cold.

with open burn design wood insert/stoves. control of burn is done with size/type of fuel.
instead of Airtight designs reducing air to control burn, leading to cooler temps, leading to incomplete burns and greater creosote production.

this is why catalytic converters are needed. newer designs use a secondary burn system resulting in a complete burn. a basic test for complete burn is to look at amount of smoke produced at full till.

If see heat waves, but no smoke. it's an indicator complete burn is being achieved. that's the reason picture of wood stove and chimney shot both was requested.

Rspike said:

The issue with burning green wood is it takes least 35% of the BTU energy from the log to dry before putting off any BTU heat of its own.

If you let wood season for 9 months cut and split from soft wood to low hard wood and up to 2 years on the med hard wood and high hard wood you will get the max BTU out of your fuel.

Imagine cutting 10 cords of wood and only getting 6 cords of real heat and BTUs off your work and effort and wasting 4 cords.

If you "wood burning unit" is say 50% efficient then you are getting 4 cords of heat for your 10 cords of wood. (also minus the 3 cords because it was green )

3 cords of heat off of 10 cords of wood is not a happy ending.

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I agree with RSpike completely. I could burn green wood if I wanted a smoke bomb for a furnace. It takes too much energy for green wood to burn. If I place a seasoned piece of wood in my furnace and have the right amount of air, the wood will gas a little and basically just the smoke will burn for a while. And when it burns, I mean Blue flames. Now If I put a piece of green wood instead of the seasoned wood, it will not burn at those air settings at all. I would get a sizzle, but no heat. So for seasoned wood its an instant heat. Just think of all the moisture going up the stack, and condensing with smoke.
Doesn't sound logical burning green wood in anything but maybe a OWB, but still seasoned wood is the only way to go.

046 said:

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with open burn design wood insert/stoves. control of burn is done with size/type of fuel. instead of Airtight designs reducing air to control burn, leading to cooler temps, leading to incomplete burns and greater creosote production.

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This is so uninformed its silly.



Burning green wood does nothing but create creosote.



The only thing funnier than this is your total lack of understanding of EPA stoves and their function.


My stove is never burning anywhere as low a temp as you claim yours to run at (nor would I let it) unless Im letting it go out.

My avarage stove temp is 650* and this isint even the stack temp.



My fire is NEVER choked off and I have little to no creosote or other build up in my chiminey after burning nearly 6 cords of wood since it was installed.



Does the Junka stove come with a do it yourself brainwashing kit?:monkey:

totally wrong!

I've spend a ton of time researching wood burning stoves before purchasing a JUCA.

note the 235 degrees quoted was for outlet air temp. not burn chamber temps, which can go much higher.

I submit it's you that don't understand how open burn wood burner work.

the nature of air tight wood stoves is to control burn by reducing amount of air reaching wood. this lowers the burn temps, resulting in incomplete burns. this is why catalytic converters are needed. the new gen recirculation solves the same problem without a cat.

all heat exchanger work on the same principal. exchange may occur with different media. air tight stoves are limited to amount of heat that can be pulled out. since they are already running near limits.

not so with an open burn design. JUCA is one big heat exchanger, temp of smoke can be dropped by several hundred degrees with no issues.

an yes JUCA passes epa regulations with no problems. that's why I posted a pic of my chimney showing how much smoke is produced at full blast using green wood. since almost no creosote is created in chimney, no stainless steel liner is required during installation.

if you so feel inclined visit the JUCA web site, which hands down has the most amount of technical info on WWW for wood burning stoves.

Please note in no way am I telling anyone to burn green wood. Just because my JUCA can burn green wood with no additional creosote production doesnot mean your particular stove can. most cannot burn green wood without creating a smoke bomb.

if your particular air tight wood stove is not creating creosote, that simply means your cat or reburn process is working great! In no way am I saying your particular stove doesnot work great. there's lots of excellent wood burning stoves out there.

just that JUCA is the only one that I'm aware of that has a 12 cubic feet capacity without going to a OWB. no catalytic converter is needed or required. very clean burning with green or seasoned wood. best of all price was way lower than most other stoves of similar size.

RaisedByWolves said:

This is so uninformed its silly.

Burning green wood does nothing but create creosote.

The only thing funnier than this is your total lack of understanding of EPA stoves and their function.

My stove is never burning anywhere as low a temp as you claim yours to run at (nor would I let it) unless Im letting it go out.

My avarage stove temp is 650* and this isint even the stack temp.

My fire is NEVER choked off and I have little to no creosote or other build up in my chiminey after burning nearly 6 cords of wood since it was installed.



Does the Junka stove come with a do it yourself brainwashing kit?:monkey:

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046 said:

totally wrong!

an yes JUCA passes epa regulations with no problems.

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Thats an outright lie.



Every thing else is just total crap!:yoyo:

One thing thats got to be understood, it that a firebox has to be of a certain temp to create secondary combustion.

" JUCA's non-air-tight design allows capturing all that heat while burning so cleanly that no "catalytic combustor" or "secondary burn" is even necessary or desirable! "

This came off the site. One thing is smoke burns at 1200+ degrees. You are talking about cooling the smoke, but for me I get secondary combustion inside my firebox. The EPA stoves incorporate secondary burn tubes, or exchangers to burn off this smoke. They can be turned down and still achieve secondary combustion. Theres more out there than a cat stove.

Once the proper temp is reached in a firebox to promote secondary combustion, the air can be turned down quite low, and the gasses will burn producing a hell of alot of heat. Many people think you throw wood in a woodburner and shut the door and go to bed. I can load 5 logs, 6" in diameter 20" long and in 20 degree weather heat my home from 8:30 pm till 5:30 in the morning when I get up and keep the house at 76 to 77 degrees all night. You have to open the dampers, get the firebox up to temps get the wood charred, then you can cut down the air and get a slow clean burn.

I'm not trying to diss you, but there has been alot of technology and design in woodstoves. I'd almost guarantee that a Epa rated insert would produce alot more heat with alot less wood. Is the JUCA listed on the EPA list?

Here is a list of EPA stoves.
http://www.epa.gov/Compliance/resources/publications/monitoring/caa/woodstoves/certifiedwood.pdf

046 said:

just that JUCA is the only one that I'm aware of that has a 12 cubic feet capacity without going to a OWB.

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Why do you feel that C/F is important (Is it because its what the juca site says?) when the rest of the world uses BTU to measuer a stoves worth?



My stove has a 3CF fire box and produces 130,000 BTU.



If that stove was built to the same standards it would have a 390,000 btu capicity.:jawdrop:

more cubic feet or larger firebox simply means larger amount of wood can be stuffed inside. more fuel inside means longer burn times and just as important less processing of wood before usage.

mine produces aprox. 150,000 btu. output is designed to be ducted into main HVAC system. in practice this has been difficult to achieve and mine is still not routed into main ducts. purchased a larger CFM blower motor last season but still have not installed.

this thread was originally started to find out how much smoke our wood stoves is putting out. concerns about wood stove bans are becoming reality.

instead I'm defending what I posted about my JUCA.
in no way was this thread meant to show mine is superior to anyone else's wood stove. but JUCA without question is one of the best wood burners ever produced. getting one has been the biggest problem with JUCA's. they don't need anymore business. I felt lucky they decided to sell me one.

RaisedByWolves said:

Why do you feel that C/F is important (Is it because its what the juca site says?) when the rest of the world uses BTU to measuer a stoves worth?



My stove has a 3CF fire box and produces 130,000 BTU.



If that stove was built to the same standards it would have a 390,000 btu capicity.:jawdrop:

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I have to say I have NEVER heard of any type of stove that encourages the burning of green wood. Besides why would you want to burn green wood.
There is no way that green wood burns better ( and safer ) than good dry wood.

I don't care about the shape, size color or even the personality of your stoves firebox, Thereis no way that there can be an advantage to burning green wood. Only major disadvantages. I hate to say it, but I think you became a victim of a really good sales pitch. There really is no super duper technology break through in the Juca than any other stove/fireplace That would allow only this stove to burn green wood efficiently.( and safely) Just slight differences like every other stove.

I have a feeling the BTU output of the Juca stove is going to be off the charts sometime soon if the green wood is continually burned. I wonder what the BTU output of a flue fire is anyway??