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I've ported several saws now with great results. However, I think I'm making more work out of it than necessary with my choice of bits.

I currently use a Dremel with a structured carbide tapered point bit to cut my ports. I only get one port job out of one before it becomes too loaded up.

I then use a round stone to put a slight bevel on the edge and then polish with a craytex wheel.

The only way I know to work on the transfers without a right-angle grinder, is to use a round stone.

Tapering the lower transfers into the bottom of the jug is really hard on my strcutured carbide bits. There's got to be a better bit. Help me out here guys.

Haywire Haywood sent me this link a long time ago, but I've never ordered from them yet. They do have a great selection though. LINK
 
I just posted on the BB thread regarding (shudder), Dremels.

Your work is technical enough you really should gift yourself with a quality pencil grinder such as the Ingersoll-Rand ARO (I have this), or one of the Dotco grinders. I will guarantee you will be so pleased with the results, you'll port all of your saws. They are so smmmooooottthhhhh and cut so easily it is like brushing material away; you have to be a little careful.

I have used a company out of New Yoik that makes every bit style you can think of, let me find the addy.

I'll be back.

Here it is: http://www.circofile.com/
 
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I just posted on the BB thread regarding (shudder), Dremels.

Your work is technical enough you really should gift yourself with a quality pencil grinder such as the Ingersoll-Rand ARO (I have this), or one of the Dotco grinders. I will guarantee you will be so pleased with the results, you'll port all of your saws. They are so smmmooooottthhhhh and cut so easily it is like brushing material away; you have to be a little careful.

I have used a company out of Jersey that makes every bit style you can think of, let me find the addy.

I'll be back.

Links would be great. This could be a real aid to those of us doing our own work.
 
Is this your grinder? LINK. That thing's like $300. A lot of money considering I only plan to port my own saws. What about something like this? LINK So now you're going to make me run air into my basement where I do my port work:mad:
 
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For Ingersoll-Rand: http://www.irtools.com/IS/category.aspx-en-238

You can click on the grinder and then "model specifications" so see the nitty-gritty.

For Dotco: http://www.cooperpowertools.com/brands/material_removal/index.cfm

Look at the turbine grinders, 100k rpm!!!

I buy virtually all my tools off eBay. These units can run up to $300 each, so looking for a bargain is important, but they can be found.

Also, to keep your carbide burrs from loading up, use a lightweight oil, like WD-40 liberally on the work. You should wear a respirator with filters for aerosols when doing this.

Yup, that's my baby! I bought it brand new in the box off eBay for $100.00 about three years ago.
 
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But you DO!!

I just went to eBay and did an advanced search, in the last week two Dotco's and one ARO went for an average price of $102.00. Can't beat that eh? All you need is 90psi and about 4cfm.

Trrrruuuuusssssssttttt me!!
 
I use the snap on version and like them very well. I have a dotco right angle that I never use. Also go to your local Carquest store and buy a set of carbide cutters. They have the shapes you need and are a very high quality bit. I but the set of 8 for $54 and they last me about a year at 2-3 saws a week.
 
I have used Wolfram Carbide bits, easy to clean and hard to destroy.
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I use the snap on version and like them very well. I have a dotco right angle that I never use. Also go to your local Carquest store and buy a set of carbide cutters. They have the shapes you need and are a very high quality bit. I but the set of 8 for $54 and they last me about a year at 2-3 saws a week.

Thanks Dean. Can expound a little on what kind of bit is best used for what? Removing the chrome in order to taper the lower transfers, etc.

Do you have to lube these with something to keep them from loading up?
 

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