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Falling wedges. What's good, what's not, and why?
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<blockquote data-quote="KiwiBro" data-source="post: 3021358" data-attributes="member: 33374"><p><strong>Thank you.</strong></p><p></p><p>Thanks very much for the advice.</p><p>It's people like you guys that make this website so great.</p><p></p><p>12" wedges it shall be then. I've a good axe but never really needed it to muscle a leaner over. Always used snatch blocks and rope, pulling them over, using my little tomahawk axe to drive in smaller wedges for a little more leverage and insurance.</p><p></p><p>The bigger axe will need a bit of practice with sacrificial wedges, getting my eye in before I introduce the good wedges to the big axe head. I'll do this on a few predictable small trees before attempting the bigger ones.</p><p></p><p>Thanks again guys. It really is wonderful for us newbies to have such wise heads willing to share their experience.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="KiwiBro, post: 3021358, member: 33374"] [b]Thank you.[/b] Thanks very much for the advice. It's people like you guys that make this website so great. 12" wedges it shall be then. I've a good axe but never really needed it to muscle a leaner over. Always used snatch blocks and rope, pulling them over, using my little tomahawk axe to drive in smaller wedges for a little more leverage and insurance. The bigger axe will need a bit of practice with sacrificial wedges, getting my eye in before I introduce the good wedges to the big axe head. I'll do this on a few predictable small trees before attempting the bigger ones. Thanks again guys. It really is wonderful for us newbies to have such wise heads willing to share their experience. [/QUOTE]
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