CAD--Montgomery Ward & Wright chainsaws.

Chris J. · Jan 28, 2011

Today CAD got the best of me. I haven't purchased any saws in about two months, and made the mistake (????) of going to look at a couple of saws that were listed on Craigslist.

One saw is a Wright 136, which is a Poulan 361 according Mike Acres' site, Model Profile: 136. The saw is complete, p&c look OK with some very minor acceptable scoring, but it needs a recoil cord. Does anyone know what size cord it uses?

The other saw is a Montgomery Ward, model TMC 30022A, Lightweight 3.6 cu. in. It's complete, the p&c look great on the exhaust side, & it'll start and run with a little starter fluid (done by the guy who was selling the saw, not me). Other than a different AF cover & clutch cover, there are probably other differences that I haven't yet noticed, it appears to be identical to the Wright 136. I know that MW didn't make their saws; does anyone know who made this saw?

Also, what is the best way to rewind a recoil spring? I wasn't careful enough when I checked the recoil on the Wright.

Both saws look as though they have never been cleaned. They seem very well made, but the paint on the MW is lame, I've seen better quality paint on Tonka Toys.

I'll try to get some photos posted tomorrow.

Chris J. · Jan 28, 2011

OK, I did some research...the Montgomery Ward, model TMC 30022A, Lightweight 3.6 cu. in. is a Remington PL-4, Model Profile: PL-4.

Has anybody else had problems with paint that flakes off way too easily on their Remington &/or Ward saw(s)?

Modifiedmark · Jan 28, 2011

Chris, I don't know much about the Remington but I do know about the Wright.

I think the starter rope will be a 4.5 if I am not mistaken. Pretty sraight foreward to replace.

The starter spring on the Wright should have a riveted loop around the outside so you just wind it by hand back up inside itself.

Eccentric · Jan 29, 2011

Chris J. said:
OK, I did some research...the Montgomery Ward, model TMC 30022A, Lightweight 3.6 cu. in. is a Remington PL-4, Model Profile: PL-4.

Has anybody else had problems with paint that flakes off way too easily on their Remington &/or Ward saw(s)?

The paint on my Montgomery Wards "Power King 2.8" labeled Remington SL-9 seems to be at least as durable as other saws of that vintage in my stable. I think it has more to do with the enviroment that the saw has been in. Either that, or the guy that mixed the paint for the batch of Remingtons your was in may have had a case of the 'mondays' and left out some stuff...

Chris J. · Jan 29, 2011

I don't know the history of the MW, maybe something happened to it to compromise the paint. All I know is the paint seems very thin and flaked off way too easily when I hit it with compressed air. I can see having some problems when I give it a thorough--and very much needed--cleaning.

I've never painted a chainsaw. I gave up painting after trying a couple of guitar bodies. A steady hand and patience have not I, not to mention the humidty here means a very long curing time between coats.

The "pull cord" that someone used in the Wright/Poulan was.....drum roll.....heavy-duty trimmer line.

Modifiedmark · Jan 29, 2011

Chris J. said:
I don't know the history of the MW, maybe something happened to it to compromise the paint. All I know is the paint seems very thin and flaked off way too easily when I hit it with compressed air. I can see having some problems when I give it a thorough--and very much needed--cleaning.

I've never painted a chainsaw. I gave up painting after trying a couple of guitar bodies. A steady hand and patience have not I, not to mention the humidty here means a very long curing time between coats.

The "pull cord" that someone used in the Wright/Poulan was.....drum roll.....heavy-duty trimmer line.

The Wright should be a good runner when done, my 361 starts easy and runs well.

"IF" you have to change the fuel line in the tank, that job requires a little more work then useal, not hard by any means but to get the fitting out of the back corner of the tank I had to remove the carb and the whole rear hadle to get enough room to remove the fitting.

You know non of these saws actually arrived though as there are no pictures don't you?

kev1n · Jan 29, 2011

My buddy winds up the spring and uses a tye wrap or zip tye to hold it wound up. Then when it's in place hold it down and cut the tye wrap. I just wind it up and stuff it in there. Good job not buying any saws for 2 months.
Kevin

Chris J. · Jan 29, 2011

Modifiedmark said:
...You know non of these saws actually arrived though as there are no pictures don't you?

LOL! Actually these were local, about 20 minutes away from me. I was going to do before cleaning & after cleaning photos, but I got in hurry to give them a quick inspection, and had already scraped & blew off a pile of crud before I remembered about photos.

I think there might another issue with the Wright/Poulan, but I'll need to check it out before posting because I don't want to look stupid...oops, too late.

Kennygee · Jan 29, 2011

Remington Paint

Chris I have acouple of John Deere/ Remington saws. One is complete and runs quite well. The other needs a piston, and or rings,
As far as the paint or lack of it, it looks like they painted it with sometning over cylinder, because evertything beyond what You can see easily is NOT painted and DON'T use anything stronger than a MILD soap or the paint will peel right off!! I don't think they even used a primer or any other kind of prep before painting saws. I don't know if this holds true for their own saws.
Does Yours have the auto oiler or just the manual oiler? If it is an auto oiler it will have two lines coming out of the oil tank. One line comes from cylinder, and the other from manual oiler. The line from cylinder to tank has , or should have a check valve in it.
If the check valve is no good You will find out real fast after You get it running and it turns into a Mosquito fogger, which could be quite useful at times!!
Good luck with it !!

Chris J. · Jan 30, 2011

OK, I'm trying to post some photos. I'm working with a new camera, some upgraded software that I'm not used to, & I did experimenting with resizing. In short, the photos will probably suck.

Montgomery Ward TMC 30022A / Remington PL-4

Edit--I've got a lot to learn.

Chris J. · Jan 30, 2011

Wright 136 / Poulan 361

Chris J. · Jan 30, 2011

I missed a couple.

Modifiedmark · Jan 30, 2011

So, are they running yet? :good:

Chris J. · Jan 31, 2011

Modifiedmark said:
So, are they running yet? :good:

Mark, I'm not as fast as you, I work pretty slow :turtle:. BTW thank you for the docs, they'll come in handy.

Both are first going to get a much needed cleaning, then I'll start with Ward/Remington since I know it has spark & will run with a little fuel in the carb. I'm sure it'll pull the 16" b&c just fine, but I can see a 14" on it in the future. Unfortunately the bar on the Wright is a hardnose, & has seen better days.

Kenny, thanks for the info & advice. I'm not into 'restoring' saws, but the MW saw might end up with some fresh paint. Even using great care I don't know how much paint is going be left on it after cleaning.

One nice thing is the MW muffler, it comes apart real easy (two screws), & the baffle can be removed by hand. The Wright muffler could be opened with a little grinding, or a couple holes drilled directly in front of the exhaust port. But I'm getting way ahead of myself.

CAD--Montgomery Ward & Wright chainsaws.

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