McCulloch 7-10 Automatic

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ambull

OCD Muscle Saw Collector
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
8,531
Reaction score
42,218
Location
Honesdale, PA
I posted this in the Mac thread, but wanted to share this saw with the rest of you, who are not Mac groupies.....

The 7-10A was made from 9/70 - 9/71. It sports a 71 cc motor and a Walbro SDC carb. Powerhead weight is listed at 15.6 pounds. Automatic oiler with manual override.

I had to replace the oil pump reservior, I checked the points, rebuilt the carb. I sandblasted the parts down and repainted them. I added some bicycle grip foam to the handle bar to add a little anti-vibe to the saw. It actually helps a lot. I kind of like the saw. Runs really nice.

I also wanted to thank Buzz Sawyer for some insightful tips on restoring a saw like this. I am nowhere near on his level yet, but maybe someday I will get there.

001-1.jpg


002-1.jpg


004-1.jpg


<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid230.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee274%2Fjmueller57%2Fchainsaw%2F005-1.mp4">
 
Looks good brother. You did good.


A 7-10 or a CP70/SP70 are on my list for the future.


I have 2 PM700s and a PM850 as well as a 10-10A, so I have the 10 series saws covered pretty good right now, but I hear the 7-10 is a completely different animal than the PM700 motor, more agressive porting I do believe.



Chris
 
Thanks everybody. I think that this saw has some snot to it. I haven't buried it in a log yet. It has a nice feel to it. The wrap handlebar is nice too. This saw is not far behind a modern saw.
 
Looks good brother. You did good.


A 7-10 or a CP70/SP70 are on my list for the future.

I have 2 PM700s and a PM850 as well as a 10-10A, so I have the 10 series saws covered pretty good right now, but I hear the 7-10 is a completely different animal than the PM700 motor, more agressive porting I do believe.

Chris

Thanks Chris. Next GTG I promise to bring it along. I have some big Macs in the project stage as well, and they should be ready soon. I have the situation where I make good money, and I am not married, so there is nobody to hold me back when I want to buy a saw. It is starting to get me into trouble, lol.
 
Thanks Chris. Next GTG I promise to bring it along. I have some big Macs in the project stage as well, and they should be ready soon. I have the situation where I make good money, and I am not married, so there is nobody to hold me back when I want to buy a saw. It is starting to get me into trouble, lol.

Good stuff brother, even if you don't bring the Macs it'd be good to meet up again.


What makes you think that being married would slow you down any?

:laugh:
Chris
 
Geez, that came out nice. I'm going to have to paint mine now. :msp_smile: What did you use for paint?

7-10A's really do run pretty good, and they have an awesome sound. We should have ourselves a little shootout at the next GTG. :clap:
 
Geez, that came out nice. I'm going to have to paint mine now. :msp_smile: What did you use for paint?

7-10A's really do run pretty good, and they have an awesome sound. We should have ourselves a little shootout at the next GTG. :clap:

we should have ourselves a little GTG and THEN figure out what to do there !!!
 
Geez, that came out nice. I'm going to have to paint mine now. :msp_smile: What did you use for paint?

7-10A's really do run pretty good, and they have an awesome sound. We should have ourselves a little shootout at the next GTG. :clap:

Thanks Spike.

Here is the painting process:

First, strip the old paint off as best you can. Bead blasting is best, but sanding works OK.

Wipe down the parts to be painted with a clean rag soaked with paint thinner. This prevents the first coat from lifting.

I used regular Rustoleum Yellow. It is a very close match. Dust the first coat, don't worry about coverage. Wait 15 minutes or so, and then coat again. It takes about 4 coats 15 minutes apart before full coverage is achieved.

After the last coat, wait 15 minutes again, and then do a top coat of High Gloss Polyurethane. This top coat seals the paint and protects it from the gasoline. I then do a second poly coat 15 minutes later again.

Wait two days or so for everything to cure, and then take a foam brush and carefully do the detail work on the embossed parts. I used a can of rustoleum black and a can of yellow for this. This step doesn't take too long, but really adds a nice touch to the restoration. I did two coats with the detail work, 15 minutes apart.

After 15 minutes again, put one more coat of polyurethane over the whole part, to seal in the detail work. Let dry, and now you can reassemble.
 
Back
Top