HandLogger
ArboristSite Operative
Our MS200T has been extremely sensitive to filter cleanliness lately, so I decided that it was running on the rich side and that an adjustment was in order. Perhaps this is the root cause of the current problem, but I attempted to use our Stihl Instruction Manual (Page 32) to adjust the saw's carburetor.
Under the heading of "Standard Setting," the manual tells the user to:
(1) Shut off the engine -- Well, I started the adjustment procedure without running the saw first (and after reading Madsen's adjustment procedure, I learned [later] that this was Mistake #1).
(2) Check the air filter and clean or replace, if necessary -- I replaced the air filter before I started this, so this is the one thing I did correctly.
(3) Check the spark arresting screen (country-specific) in the muffler and clean or replace, if necessary -- Our saw doesn't appear to have any type of screen whatsoever in the exhaust.
(4) Turn high speed screw (H) CCW as far as stop (no more than 3/4 turn) -- I interpreted this to mean that you turn the (H) screw CW until it stops and, afterword, you turn the same screw CCW 3/4 turn. Turning the (H) screw CW until it stops is simple enough, but the 3/4 turn is another story. On our saw, the (H) screw will not make 3/4 turn before it is max CCW.
(5) Carefully turn the low speed screw (L) down onto its seat (clockwise) -- I slowly turned the (L) screw max CW.
(6) Open the low speed screw (L) one full turn -- I used the notch on the small adjustment screwdriver I got from our Stihl dealer and turned the (L) screw CCW one full turn.
And now the results:
After reading the Madsen's adjustment procedure, I have no doubt that my first attempt at adjusting a saw carburetor was severely flawed; consequently, the saw wouldn't fire at all. And after getting that old familiar "This ****ing saw is flooded!!!" phrase ringing in my head, I replaced the spark plug and began making minor adjustments to both screws until the saw finally came to life. The saw will run now, in short, but all manner of minor adjustments will not get the saw to rev up properly when the throttle is squeezed.
The one good thing is that the saw can at least be warmed up now. Nevertheless, both written adjustment procedures I've read -- the Stihl Instruction Manual and Madsen's -- seem to indicate that both the (H) and the (L) adjustment screws should have more travel than what I'm experiencing with our saw. In fact, the imprints under the adjustment screw holes on our saw clearly indicate that we should be getting at least 3/4 turn CCW out of the (H) screw.
If anyone on the board can decipher this mess and put me back on the right track, I'd be much obliged. If nothing else, I'd greatly appreciate an explanation of what Step 4 (above) actually means.
A visit to the nearest Stihl dealer would be a logical step, no doubt, but the "nearest" dealer is a long way from the woods we're working in and, like a lot of folks these days, we're very short on funds.
Thanks very much for any constructive thoughts ...
Under the heading of "Standard Setting," the manual tells the user to:
(1) Shut off the engine -- Well, I started the adjustment procedure without running the saw first (and after reading Madsen's adjustment procedure, I learned [later] that this was Mistake #1).
(2) Check the air filter and clean or replace, if necessary -- I replaced the air filter before I started this, so this is the one thing I did correctly.
(3) Check the spark arresting screen (country-specific) in the muffler and clean or replace, if necessary -- Our saw doesn't appear to have any type of screen whatsoever in the exhaust.
(4) Turn high speed screw (H) CCW as far as stop (no more than 3/4 turn) -- I interpreted this to mean that you turn the (H) screw CW until it stops and, afterword, you turn the same screw CCW 3/4 turn. Turning the (H) screw CW until it stops is simple enough, but the 3/4 turn is another story. On our saw, the (H) screw will not make 3/4 turn before it is max CCW.
(5) Carefully turn the low speed screw (L) down onto its seat (clockwise) -- I slowly turned the (L) screw max CW.
(6) Open the low speed screw (L) one full turn -- I used the notch on the small adjustment screwdriver I got from our Stihl dealer and turned the (L) screw CCW one full turn.
And now the results:
After reading the Madsen's adjustment procedure, I have no doubt that my first attempt at adjusting a saw carburetor was severely flawed; consequently, the saw wouldn't fire at all. And after getting that old familiar "This ****ing saw is flooded!!!" phrase ringing in my head, I replaced the spark plug and began making minor adjustments to both screws until the saw finally came to life. The saw will run now, in short, but all manner of minor adjustments will not get the saw to rev up properly when the throttle is squeezed.
The one good thing is that the saw can at least be warmed up now. Nevertheless, both written adjustment procedures I've read -- the Stihl Instruction Manual and Madsen's -- seem to indicate that both the (H) and the (L) adjustment screws should have more travel than what I'm experiencing with our saw. In fact, the imprints under the adjustment screw holes on our saw clearly indicate that we should be getting at least 3/4 turn CCW out of the (H) screw.
If anyone on the board can decipher this mess and put me back on the right track, I'd be much obliged. If nothing else, I'd greatly appreciate an explanation of what Step 4 (above) actually means.
A visit to the nearest Stihl dealer would be a logical step, no doubt, but the "nearest" dealer is a long way from the woods we're working in and, like a lot of folks these days, we're very short on funds.
Thanks very much for any constructive thoughts ...
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