Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
This saw is for sale near me. Is it a Poulan?
CannonView attachment 280162
CannonView attachment 280162
Is this a Poulan
- Thread starter Cannon51
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richard t
ArboristSite Operative
It says craftsman on it I'm saying no not a poulan
ps I've had good luck out of the black craftsman
WillBrayJr
ArboristSite Guru
It IS a Pull-on&on&on. Craftsman doesn't make a thing.
nmurph
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Wrong-o. Well, I guess technically it is a Craftsman. But I get the gist of the question which is, who makes this saw for Sears? The answer is Poulan.
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Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Yes, it is a Poulan, same basic saw as my 2775. Craftsman saws with a part number prefix of 358.XXXXXX are Poulan saws.
I like mine a lot. Make sure the engine attachment bolts are there (from the bottom), the rear A/V mount under the handle is OK, and the muffler has not been lose and caused any melting. Along with the usual cylinder scoring stuff. The fuel lines often deteriorate.
I like mine a lot. Make sure the engine attachment bolts are there (from the bottom), the rear A/V mount under the handle is OK, and the muffler has not been lose and caused any melting. Along with the usual cylinder scoring stuff. The fuel lines often deteriorate.
Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
The ad says it won't start. $20. I called the guy but haven't heard back. Sorry if I phrased the question poorly.
Cannon
Cannon
M
moody
Guest
:agree2: Most people who sell saws like that typically haven't enough knowledge to replace a fuel line. Good buy if it has compression or spark.
Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
I went and got it . I pulled it through a few times to see if it had compression. It felt like it was OK but I'll put a gage on it to be sure. The bolts in the bottom and the muffler look good but the anti vibe handle feels a little sloppy. The chain brake is messed up but I'll need to take the cover off to find out how. I was going to take the plug wire off and check for spark but I don't see one, surely It has one.
Cannon
Cannon
Same saw as the Poulan Pro 295. Put a 16" bar on it and it will like it much better.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Just to give you some ideas - http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/200511.htm
EDIT: forgot to say good deal! They are fun saws.
EDIT: forgot to say good deal! They are fun saws.
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WillBrayJr
ArboristSite Guru
The spark plug is located under the filter cover which is on top of the case.
Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
View attachment 280277View attachment 280278View attachment 280279I started taking it apart this morning. I removed the plug and check the spark, yes. Put in compression tester and gave it 5 pulls and got 120lb, is that good or low? Tried to remove the muffler to see the piston but couldn't get it off. Does the muffler separate and have another screw inside like some of my old saws? I put a shot of Liquid Wrench in the plug hole, installed the plug, small shot of starting fluid in carb, pulled it once and it fired and ran about 2 seconds. I'm guessing it's a fuel problem. The chain brake is trashed, the handle is broken and the band is missing. My old saws don't have these but I wouldn't mind having it. How do you clean these air filters, wash with gas, soapy water, air, replace? What's the deal on the anti vibe handle, is it just the springs?
Cannon
Cannon
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Yes, there is a 3rd screw that holds the inner muffler shell to the cylinder You should be able to pry the two halves apart on the saw.
What happened to the chain brake is that the deflector on the muffler shield broke off. That is the early type muffler and I've had the same thing happen. This is a picture of what the original shield looked like:
That part that goes around the muffler outlet fatigue fails and falls off, and then the exhaust gasses melt the brake. The first one I had did that, and the replacement I ordered was made differently so I figured it would be OK. Nope, it fell off too, but fortunately I noticed before any more heat damage. In the end I made my own shield that attached to the muffler itself - I will try to get some pictures of it tonight. The good part is that the early mufflers have a large outlet to begin with that can easily be enlarged further - that plus a little drilling of the internal baffle makes a free flowing muffler and really wakes it up.
I would get the clutch cover from sears parts direct, they will have one in the correct color. Also, I can't quite see but it looks like you are missing the lower A/V spring which should be under the rear handle at the front edge.
What happened to the chain brake is that the deflector on the muffler shield broke off. That is the early type muffler and I've had the same thing happen. This is a picture of what the original shield looked like:
That part that goes around the muffler outlet fatigue fails and falls off, and then the exhaust gasses melt the brake. The first one I had did that, and the replacement I ordered was made differently so I figured it would be OK. Nope, it fell off too, but fortunately I noticed before any more heat damage. In the end I made my own shield that attached to the muffler itself - I will try to get some pictures of it tonight. The good part is that the early mufflers have a large outlet to begin with that can easily be enlarged further - that plus a little drilling of the internal baffle makes a free flowing muffler and really wakes it up.
I would get the clutch cover from sears parts direct, they will have one in the correct color. Also, I can't quite see but it looks like you are missing the lower A/V spring which should be under the rear handle at the front edge.
Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
I did get the muffler apart and the cylinder looks OK. I tried several times priming with premix but it would quit in a few seconds. I removed the carb took it apart and cleaned it out. I broke one of the gaskets but had one leftover in a kit I had used in something else. Reinstalled the carb ( can't get the choke hooked up) and that made no difference. I was going to box it up and work on it later so I emptied the gas out and there was the filter with about a 1/2 in of fuel line on it. For some reason there was only about 2 inches of old line in the tank. I had some yellow fuel line but it a little bigger and I can't get it started in the tank. Hope I didn't tear anything up taking it apart for no reason. I look closer at the heat deflector, Thanks
Cannon
Cannon
ckelp
just being myself
wa carb kit and new fuel lines will have you down the road..
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Here is the muffler shield I made out of a piece of heavy gauge black stove pipe:
The screws are 4-40 stainless steel with lock washers and nuts & blue LokTite. The screen is still on the internal baffle so they cannot get into the engine even if they do work loose.
Here is the A/V mount. Mine has been modified with a through bolt because the threads stripped out:
The screws are 4-40 stainless steel with lock washers and nuts & blue LokTite. The screen is still on the internal baffle so they cannot get into the engine even if they do work loose.
Here is the A/V mount. Mine has been modified with a through bolt because the threads stripped out:
BigDaddyR
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just put a fuel line in mine a few days ago and cut the end on an angle to help get it started and then was able to get it pushed through far enough to grab it. It was kind of a pain the butt. Good luck with it. Cheap saw for $20 and some labor. Everybody around here want's $100 usually for a beat looking saw they say they "started last year" and it ran fine then.
Rep your way.
Rep your way.
Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
I picked up two different sizes of Oregon fuel line tonight at the hardware. Mine does have the spring under the handle. I think I found where the heat shield broke off the plate behind the muffler.
Cannon
Cannon
Cannon51
ArboristSite Operative
I got the fuel line on it. I used the .80x.140, that seemed to be the same that was on it. It was both a pain to get through the hole and over the carb and filter fitting. I got it cranked by priming it and it revved wide open. I pulled the choke on to slow it down but that had no effect. I did that about 3 times with the same results. I think it must be getting air from somewhere. I boxed it up to fool with later.
Thanks for the help.
Cannon
Thanks for the help.
Cannon
