OK you guys helped me get my last saw running good. Not i have a old 10" craftsman that was given to me. it was never used. put some gas in it and it fired right up. the automatic oiler isnt working though. i took the pump out and found the tube to be broken. replaced it and it still isnt working. i have the book and i just dont understand how it is supposed to work. the model number is 358.352020-10. It would be a great saw for cutting branches and brush.
Oiler on craftsman
- Thread starter crepitus
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galde
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oiler not working
I assume the saw is in the Poulan micro 25 family. If so, then you very likely have to replace the check valve that feeds crankcase pressure pulses into the oil tank to pressurize the tank to push oil from the tank to the bar. This valve is just forward of the sprocket. It can be removed with a thin-walled 1/2 inch box end wrench.
I assume the saw is in the Poulan micro 25 family. If so, then you very likely have to replace the check valve that feeds crankcase pressure pulses into the oil tank to pressurize the tank to push oil from the tank to the bar. This valve is just forward of the sprocket. It can be removed with a thin-walled 1/2 inch box end wrench.
galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
check valve testing
The check valve has a crimped-on screen on the end pointing into the crankcase. Slip a hose over this end and attempt to blow through the valve. It should allow air to pass in this direction. Also try to suck air back through the valve. It should not allow air to pass in this direction. If it fails either of these tests, then the valve is defective. I rebuild them if they are bad. There is a rubber "duck bill" check valve inside that deteriorates sooner or later. This duck bill costs about a buck, while the valve fitting is about ten bucks if you can find one. I carefully file off the crimp around the screen without damaging the screen, then remove all of the bad rubber duck bill. After inserting a new duck bill, I replace the screen and apply a bead of J-B Weld where the crimp was.
The check valve has a crimped-on screen on the end pointing into the crankcase. Slip a hose over this end and attempt to blow through the valve. It should allow air to pass in this direction. Also try to suck air back through the valve. It should not allow air to pass in this direction. If it fails either of these tests, then the valve is defective. I rebuild them if they are bad. There is a rubber "duck bill" check valve inside that deteriorates sooner or later. This duck bill costs about a buck, while the valve fitting is about ten bucks if you can find one. I carefully file off the crimp around the screen without damaging the screen, then remove all of the bad rubber duck bill. After inserting a new duck bill, I replace the screen and apply a bead of J-B Weld where the crimp was.
andrethegiant70
Addicted to ArboristSite
ok the valve flows air in both directions. i took off the screen and there was this gummy mess in there. got it all cleaned out. what do i have to look for to repair it?
galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
duck bill valve
I use homelite #69451 (Stens part #610-345) duck bill valves. Poulan uses a similar, slightly longer duckbill in its older saws. Either should work. For the homelite route, I open up the hole slightly (I forget the exact size drill bit, it isn't critical, as long as the rubber valve isn't loose in the hole). I use brake cleaner to degrease prior to applying the bead of J-B Weld to hold the screen in place. If you can't find a duck bill, the whole check valve kit (threaded valve plus gasket) is Poulan #530-069142) (Stens part #610-377).
I use homelite #69451 (Stens part #610-345) duck bill valves. Poulan uses a similar, slightly longer duckbill in its older saws. Either should work. For the homelite route, I open up the hole slightly (I forget the exact size drill bit, it isn't critical, as long as the rubber valve isn't loose in the hole). I use brake cleaner to degrease prior to applying the bead of J-B Weld to hold the screen in place. If you can't find a duck bill, the whole check valve kit (threaded valve plus gasket) is Poulan #530-069142) (Stens part #610-377).
thanks for the hook up galde
