I think a rebuild kit in the carb & you'll have a good saw.
Antique saw thread
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I think a rebuild kit in the carb & you'll have a good saw.
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
Here's some more of the D49. I'm trying to figure out how to get this carb out so I can find some identifying marks on it. It's quite the puzzle.
I was hoping that the whole thing would pop up by unscrewing those two screws in the back, but it's pretty stuck on there. I'm worried about using too much force and damaging something, since as far as I've been able to determine parts for this are nonexistent.
Here's the back of the air cover.
And finally a look at the piston/rings through the exhaust. What's that little pointy thing sticking out?
I was hoping that the whole thing would pop up by unscrewing those two screws in the back, but it's pretty stuck on there. I'm worried about using too much force and damaging something, since as far as I've been able to determine parts for this are nonexistent.
Here's the back of the air cover.
And finally a look at the piston/rings through the exhaust. What's that little pointy thing sticking out?
Tail on the wrist pin retainer.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
The carb is mounted on 2 studs, you can see the nuts in the photo on either side of the carburetor. You may need a set of off-set or "ignition wrenches" to get them undone. Yes it will be difficult, and you may need to remove the oil pump and perhaps some other things, but there seems to be decent access.
That carb looks like a "Tecumseh" diaphragm carburetor, if so, the kits are still available. I've never had one on a saw, but shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
Mall 2MG is complete. Guy is selling for his neighbor knows nothing about its functionality, has the hole digger attachment and chainsaw attachment. Should I drop $50 bucks on it? I need another project like I need less money but I just can't stop buying old crap that I really dont need.
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That’s a good size augar there. [emoji15].
One shouldn’t run it by oneself lest you get a playground ride.
One shouldn’t run it by oneself lest you get a playground ride.
Well guys,I don't really know as a Lombard would be considered to be antique?I suppose maybe so since they were last made in 1983,that's damn near 40 yrs.ago!
I picked up an AP42 on Feebay for $43.I didn't realize that it was missing the clutch,clutch cover & bar plates.Lucky thing for me I had an identical saw on hand with all the parts I needed.Before I put the clutch on I looked at the piston & cylinder & they werte in great shape.I noticed that one of the bolts that holds the casing to the engine under the clutch was missing,so I figured I'd just take it out of the parts saw I had.I went to put ity in the boss & the hole was bigger than the bolt.I checked the other bolts & they were all loose.Time for some red thread locker.I got that taken care of & the clutch swapped over & the recoil cleaned out,put a new fuel filter in it with some fuel,checked the needle settings (the lo was good,but the hi was almost completely closed).Gave the saw about 10 pulls & got nothing.Time for a prime & she fired up,but didn't pull fuel on it's own.Primed it one more time & had myself a running AP42! The only thing left to do with it is get a new muffler stud,or new bolts that fit.The muffler is in a-1 shape.Kinda reminds me of a Pioneer muffler.Oh yeah,I forgot after it was running I went top shut it off & it didn't shut off.I had to replace the switch.
I picked up an AP42 on Feebay for $43.I didn't realize that it was missing the clutch,clutch cover & bar plates.Lucky thing for me I had an identical saw on hand with all the parts I needed.Before I put the clutch on I looked at the piston & cylinder & they werte in great shape.I noticed that one of the bolts that holds the casing to the engine under the clutch was missing,so I figured I'd just take it out of the parts saw I had.I went to put ity in the boss & the hole was bigger than the bolt.I checked the other bolts & they were all loose.Time for some red thread locker.I got that taken care of & the clutch swapped over & the recoil cleaned out,put a new fuel filter in it with some fuel,checked the needle settings (the lo was good,but the hi was almost completely closed).Gave the saw about 10 pulls & got nothing.Time for a prime & she fired up,but didn't pull fuel on it's own.Primed it one more time & had myself a running AP42! The only thing left to do with it is get a new muffler stud,or new bolts that fit.The muffler is in a-1 shape.Kinda reminds me of a Pioneer muffler.Oh yeah,I forgot after it was running I went top shut it off & it didn't shut off.I had to replace the switch.
Picked this up today, anyone know what it is? Says model no. 325 but I see no brand name on it. the motor is free (sorry, I don’t see an option to rotate the photos?)
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P
Piston circlip .
I saw that saw too, guy posted it as a possible Homelite. You're in Ct or Western Mass?
Homelite enthusiast in training.
I didn't realize that I've had the Lombard AP42 since late Feb.I guess I got tired of kicking the saw around the garage & had another go at it.The carb was giving me problems with not holding pressure.I tore that down again & got it to acceptable tolerance.I put the carb back on the saw & about 10 pulls later it fired,but was running erratically.This time it was electrical.I looked at the plug wire & it was touching the muffler.It was shorting out till I moved it.I pulled the wire out & put the wire in from the other saw I had.It ran great then.The muffler was loose & chattering away,so I found the cap screws were too long,a couple of washers took up the slack.I had to hunt around for the air filter & cover.I found the cover,but no filter yet.I was all ready now to put a bar & chain on the beast.I fired the saw up & revved it up only to find out the clutch is slipping.I looked on Feebay & there were no clutches for the AP42.Does anyone know if the clutch from a Comango will work?
How can you control / remedy magnesium corrosion? Thanks
External. My recent Remington SL4. find has minimal corrosion around a few edges
Brush the oxide off. Clean it really well with solvent and seal with primer. If you have deep pits, JB Weld is good to patch them.
Depending on the convenience (or inconvenience) factor, bead blasting usually works well. I'd be more inclined to bake the parts after blasting to extract any residual oils or solvent residue, myself. Then prime with a good primer or fill any deep inconsistencies with JB before painting as suggested. Both will bond much better in the absence of oils or after-effects of solvents..., depending on the type of solvent, of course. Some can actually cause additional breakdown of the exposed magnesium to re-initiate the exact condition you are attempting to repair. Read directions carefully.
Or...,
Just hose off the affected areas with brake cleaner and grab the closest rattle can if you're going for a quick and dirty touch up. Will probably last longer than an original Remington paint job anyway. LOL
Or...,
Just hose off the affected areas with brake cleaner and grab the closest rattle can if you're going for a quick and dirty touch up. Will probably last longer than an original Remington paint job anyway. LOL
Does anyone know a rattle can colour that is close to Remington Orange/Red. I guess I could go white on the air filter cover and the recoil. I've seen that combination.
Cheers
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