Best maul?

[zemmo]

OK, I ordered a 2300 Helko, we'll see how it stacks up against the mega-maul. My money for the tough stuff is with the mega. Should have the Helko in a few days, and have lots of green Emory oak to test with. That's about as tough a wood to split as I've ever come across.

 

[zemmo]

Got the Helko and spent an hour testing it against my other two mauls: one, an 8 lb, fiberglass-handled model from Bailey's; and two, the 12 lb "mega-maul". In all honesty, I had an opinion about how the test would go...I would use the Helko until I got to a round I couldn't split (which I didn't think would take long) and then break out the monster and let it triumph. I was splitting rounds of Emory oak that I cut yesterday, the largest around 14" in diameter and maybe 16-18" long. I also split a few with my old fiberglass maul, just as a constant.

Of course it's impossible to control all the variables in a test like this. Ideally, one would split a round, then reassemble it at the molecular level, and hit it in exactly the same place with the same force with another maul. Of course the variables of force, placement, variation in wood make this somewhat less than a rigorous scientific treatment, but here it is for whatever it's worth:

To my great surprise, I never tried a round I couldn't spllit with the Helko. The toughest, biggest, most twisted specimens took maybe 10 whacks, but they always split. I then started experimenting with the other mauls, doing my best to do equal comparisons. Quickly, I discovered that both the mega and the Helko "mauled" my old maul. I soon quit took it out of the rotation.

Differences between the two finalists were dramatic. I swung the Helko all the way around, and one could really whip up the velocity with the 5 lb head and long handle. The more I used it, the more I liked it, including the shape of the handle, which I had a poor first impression of. The mega is just plain old 1940's tech, and feels like it's solid, welded steel (why, and so it is). Nothing fancy, but just brutally effective. I just raise it straight above my head and then add whatever force I can to the considerable mass. Man, there's no give in that thing. A completely different splitting experience than with the Helko.

So which maul is the big winner. I still think the mega, but it's close. The Helko doesn't do the job unless one really whistles it up, and as I started to tire I think it was easier to use the mega. But I really like the Helko, it's a great tool and a keeper. I'll be using them both, lots of wood to split. If I manage to post the jpgs you'll notice that both heads are in some ways similar: a fairly sharp edge, and steep angles. The mega is just a simple triangle, while the Helko had much more complicated geometry, it seems to be hollow ground. Split on friends...

 

[peacegame98]

i split alot of ash pop oak and maple and i always have used a splitting axe with a sledge or maul backup ... i am faster with the axe and and can split all day .. with it

 

[Pcoz88]

Here's one I found on line

Splitting Maul (35") Professional Grade by Iltis Ox..It's $99.99 from Germany.It said it is the Best of the Best splitting mauls out there.:jawdrop: Iam not saying it is ,thats just what the web site said.

 

[zemmo]

Splitting Maul (35") Professional Grade by Iltis Ox..It's $99.99 from Germany.It said it is the Best of the Best splitting mauls out there.:jawdrop: Iam not saying it is ,thats just what the web site said.

Send one down and I'll be happy to test it!:biggrinbounce2: :biggrinbounce2:

 

[kattcutter]

No one uses the Chopper 1?

<BR>

I've used several different mauls/axes over the years, & this thing outperforms anything I have ever used, hands down! The "split-assist" action of the small "spreader" lever wedges works like a dream.

 

[Bowtie]

No one uses the Chopper 1?

<BR>

I've used several different mauls/axes over the years, & this thing outperforms anything I have ever used, hands down! The "split-assist" action of the small "spreader" lever wedges works like a dream.

Can a person still buy those?

 

[kattcutter]

Sure can!

Google search "Chopper 1". It is well worth the $$$ I spent on it, I have used mine for 5 + years, & replaced the return springs once.

regards, katt

 

[HOT SAW]

maul

I like the mauls that you step on the hydrolic foot peddel and it splits as much wood as you can put on it.

 

[par38lamp]

I just recieved a Harbor Freight 8 lb maul, and happy with it. I used a 8 lb maul from Lowes (borrowed), and I think I like this one better. Edge was level and sharp enough. The handle is different in that it flares out at the top, so the head cannot slip off the end. I imagine a new handle might be hard to get.

On a side note, I have two Farbor Freight wedges. A 4 lb red one that, well, is a small wedge. The "twister" wedge they normally sell for $15, $9 with coupon, is teriffic. Made in Germany, and really works. East to start, and works as designed. This is compared to the 4 lb, a 10 lb one from Sears, and a welded and filled axe head.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90873

 

[Brushwacker]

No one uses the Chopper 1?

<BR>

I've used several different mauls/axes over the years, & this thing outperforms anything I have ever used, hands down! The "split-assist" action of the small "spreader" lever wedges works like a dream.

Back in the 80's I bought and tried using a chopper 1 with a fiberglass handle. Mabe they changed something ,or your wood is quite differant then mine, or you haven't tried a good maul. When I used the chopper 1 very often especially in dry hardwoods it would penetrate enough to stick tight in the wood without contacting the levers enough to split it.Then it was a fight to get the bit out of the wood. When it did split the smaller wood would often fly apart violently endangering anything in its path. IF I remember right I paid about $35 for it and sold it for $8 within a short time after testing it out. I would rather use a regular curved handle axe as that thing,but the best in most situations for me is the monster maul with a well padded handle so far .I would try the mega if I get the oppurtunity as I have'nt tried anything new for many years.

 

[kattcutter]

Back in the 80's I bought and tried using a chopper 1 with a fiberglass handle. Mabe they changed something ,or your wood is quite differant then mine, or you haven't tried a good maul. When I used the chopper 1 very often especially in dry hardwoods it would penetrate enough to stick tight in the wood without contacting the levers enough to split it.Then it was a fight to get the bit out of the wood. When it did split the smaller wood would often fly apart violently endangering anything in its path. IF I remember right I paid about $35 for it and sold it for $8 within a short time after testing it out. I would rather use a regular curved handle axe as that thing,but the best in most situations for me is the monster maul with a well padded handle so far .I would try the mega if I get the oppurtunity as I have'nt tried anything new for many years.

I usually don't have a problem with the Chopper 1 sticking in the wood; course, every axe/etc. will stick once in awhile. Unless I would happen to be splitting really wet/sticky/sappy wood (which I don't make a habit of doing), the chopper will penetrate far enough to contact the levers just fine for me.

You are correct, the wood does have a tendancy to fly apart violently, so I watch out for that. I bought mine at a yard sale for $10, around 5 years ago, & have been very pleased with it. Sometimes when I am splitting very large chunks, I will take "slices" around the perimeter of the piece, instead of going across the heart, so I don't run into a sticking situation, or beat up the handle.

I guess it comes down to what works best for your individual situation. :biggrinbounce2:

regards, kattcutter

 

[Lou]

I use a clark splitter now... Used to use single blade axe. When it got get stuck in log pick EVERYTHING up strike dull side of axe on a second log. The weight of the captive log does all the work.

 

[zemmo]

I use a clark splitter now... Used to use single blade axe. When it got get stuck in log pick EVERYTHING up strike dull side of axe on a second log. The weight of the captive log does all the work.

Yeah, except for picking up EVERYTHING and whacking it on another log. This doesn't sound like how I want to spend my winter vacation...

 

[Lou]

I looked like Arnold from the rear (well from waist up). Once I started my back problems went away. Something to be said for good hard physical exercise. Bent over that low rider Clark brought them back. Good thing you can roll them onto splitter no need to pick up.

 

[Sodboa]

Splitting Black Locust

Speaking of splitting...

I have a large black locust in my backyard that I am going to take down. How hard is it to split and cut really? Is it better to cut green and split green or split dry?

I've heard horror stories about it, but then I see people lump it in with all the other hardwoods without a comment.

 

[JUDGE1162]

It cuts ok, I really have not found too many trees that don't cut it is slower than softer wood but if you only got one it is not a big deal, not sure I would want to deal with cutting it all day every day but a singel tree is not bad

Splitting, it is tough no doubt but doable at least striaght logs, for big knots or "Y" use a ripping chain on your saw, infact you could rip all the logs.

I split everything by hand, I find black locust not really any harder to split then Elm (diffrent reasons) but if you every split a large Elm you can handel black locust.

 

[joe4str]

Black Locust

Black locust is easy to split and makes a superior firewood. In fact, it is a preferred species for split rail fencing in the southern Appalachians. Burns long and hot if dry.

 

[bytehoven]

I have a question regarding the surface of the axe, maul or wedges.

Does anyone treat their blade surfaces to keep them slippery so they split better?

I have a couple of wedges that have rusted up pretty good and I need to sand them down. I wondered if treating the surface with spray silicone or (?), might not only keep them from rusting up again, but also help through tougher wood?

When I get a piece that won't easily split, I cut. Infact, since getting the MS361 I have made it a practice of atleast cutting my stuff in half and then splitting with a smaller axe and sledge.

What's the best height for a splitting pedistal? I kept a nice 5' x 20" log I have been planning to bury in the gound a couple of feet to use as a splitting platform. I was going to use a concrete tube, but too often the axe or maul might reach the concrete surface.

 

[habanero]

I have a question regarding the surface of the axe, maul or wedges.

Does anyone treat their blade surfaces to keep them slippery so they split better?

I have a couple of wedges that have rusted up pretty good and I need to sand them down. I wondered if treating the surface with spray silicone or (?), might not only keep them from rusting up again, but also help through tougher wood?...

The only treatment I use on my maul to keep it shiny is constant use.

If you're going to store it any time, though, it is always a good idea to wipe it down with an oily rag before storing it. Every time I use my spade, I clean it up, drizzle a few drops of used motor oil on it, and wipe it down. It scours better now then when I bought it.

As far as making it split better, I can't imagine any lubricant is going to help much unless you are applying it before every hit. I'd think that would get pretty tedious in a hurry.