Chain pitch = file size

[Local # 17 T.T.]

Can anyone tell me a link or the correct size files for the correct chain pitchs. Thanks....

Mike

 

[Fish]

It depends on different brands/models of chain, as with Oregon, or other brands,
the model 33 .325 chain requires a different file than does the 20 LP .325 chain.
Also, as the chain gets filed back, the height of the cutter gets lower.
I personally visually pick the correct file for the chain in question, as the correct
file is critical.
With chain grinders, the top of the cutting angle is made by the side of the
cutting wheel, so there is only a couple of diameter wheels to worry about, the
correct diameter file is crucial for best performance in hand sharpening.

 

[Local # 17 T.T.]

It depends on different brands/models of chain, as with Oregon, or other brands,
the model 33 .325 chain requires a different file than does the 20 LP .325 chain.
Also, as the chain gets filed back, the height of the cutter gets lower.
I personally visually pick the correct file for the chain in question, as the correct
file is critical.
With chain grinders, the top of the cutting angle is made by the side of the
cutting wheel, so there is only a couple of diameter wheels to worry about, the
correct diameter file is crucial for best performance in hand sharpening.

Ok, I guess this brings me to my second question. Just by looking at the chain, how can you tell what brand/model it is? When you visually are picking the file, what are you looking for in relation to the cutter? What about depth gauge guides, do they all apply to the same chains? Thanks,

Mike

 

[jokers]

Hi Mike,

You might try looking at the different manufacturer`s sites to determine what brand and model of chain you have. If you search the manufacturer`s sites you will also find the recommended file size for new chain. As Fish stated, the file diameter needs to be decreased on a chain as the cutter gets shorter.

Try these links:

Oregon Carlton Stihl

Russ

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

5/32 for 3/8s LP
3/16 for .325
7/32 for 3/8

If the file is too small, you'll get some left over gullet to file away. If it's too big, you start to cut into the top of the drive link and tie strap. Either way it's no biggy.

 

[Al Smith]

5/32 for 1/4" and 1/4 for 1/2" chain, popular sizes.

 

[SawTroll]

5/32 for 3/8s LP
3/16 for .325
7/32 for 3/8

That is probably the closest you can get to a general rule, but as posted by others there are a lot of exceptions, among them the very usual 3/8" RM and RS chains from Stihl !

 

[bugfart]

Then there are round and square.

It's best to find a good link and read up on chain. You learn a lot more than any questions you can think up to ask.
Here's a link I like,
http://www.madsens1.com/sub4.htm
From a previous thoughtful discussion. I came to the conclusion I should just buy them till I get a few that need sharpenned. I can pick my times when I cut.

Sprockets are turning into another science. Trying to figure out how saw specific they are. Will my Remington SL4 take the same as a Poulan or Homie xl12 or.... Just have not had time to dig into it, but I will. I would never deny myself that.

 

[jokers]

5/32 for 3/8s LP
3/16 for .325
7/32 for 3/8

If the file is too small, you'll get some left over gullet to file away. If it's too big, you start to cut into the top of the drive link and tie strap. Either way it's no biggy.

Hi Mike,

I agree that filing a chain isn`t a "black art", but it`s not quite as simple as the quote implies.

First, if the file is too small you will have more excess material to file out of the gullet as Mike Maas states, but more importantly, you are more likely to impart too much sideplate angle or "hook" into your cutter making it grabby. Too much hook also produces a sharper topplate inside angle that is not as durable as a more blunt angle.

On the other hand, a file that is larger in diameter than optimal will produce a sideplate with not enough hook, no hook, or worse yet a back lean. This not only results in severely diminished cutting performance but also encourages the operator to push harder on the saw. This is a set up for equipment and personnel injury.

Russ

 

[Lewis Brander]

Chain and file guide:

If you want search for the thread, "A chain filling question." There is a chart there that covers chipper chain, what files to use for the different size chain and raker heights. I also use thie chart to file my round ground chisel chains. Take care. Lewis Brander. Here's the chart I posted in that thread.

 

[TonyM]

I would think that by coupling the file with the correct flat file guide, the proper hook could be maintained even with the wrong diameter file. That doesn't take care of the gullet material or the cutting into the tie straps problems.

Stihl 3/8 chain uses a 13/64 file. Although I've sharpend many other 3/8" chains with the 13/64 file and it works just fine, and gives you more room as you work towards the end of the chain's life.

As for grinding, I wish my CBN wheels had the same radius as the appropriate file. I like to grind in a way that a file will drop right in a tooth and sharpen it without having to remove a lot of material or fight the profile. I could do that when hand dressing a grinding wheel, but I'm stuck with the radius on my CBN wheels.

 

[Fish]

Here was the chart I was looking for.
Look at the angle on the left that says 60 degrees, that is what you need to
try to acheive with the correct diameter file, also note the recomended tilt for the full chisel chain.

 

[Fish]

well maybe not

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Hi Mike,

I agree that filing a chain isn`t a "black art", but it`s not quite as simple as the quote implies.

First, if the file is too small you will have more excess material to file out of the gullet as Mike Maas states, but more importantly, you are more likely to impart too much sideplate angle or "hook" into your cutter making it grabby. Too much hook also produces a sharper topplate inside angle that is not as durable as a more blunt angle.

On the other hand, a file that is larger in diameter than optimal will produce a sideplate with not enough hook, no hook, or worse yet a back lean. This not only results in severely diminished cutting performance but also encourages the operator to push harder on the saw. This is a set up for equipment and personnel injury.

Russ

I've filed little chains with big files and big chains with small files. If you know what end result you are seeking, you can get a well cutting chain, although the a file that sits in the gullet with about 20% of the file above the cutter height is easiest.
As mentioned, if you have trouble keeping the file at the correct height, the cheapo files guides work awesome.
A big file cuts a straighter side plate angle, which is good because it more duplicates the straight side plate angle of a square ground chain. A small file cuts a sharper inside corner where the inside side plate and inside top plate meet. So the end result is all round file sizes have advantages and disadvantages that cancel each other out, more or less.
I can make a pretty fast chain in the field by simply using a big file first then following it up with a small one to clean out the working corner.

 

[spacemule]

So, spark plugs never go bad, and size is irrelevant. Is this what you're arguing, Mike?

 

[rbtree]

While I'm now square filing 3/8 chain much of the time, I agree with TonyM. It is easier to get proper angles and depth with 13/64, and, as the cutter gets smaller, 3/16. As well, with that nice wide kerf Stihl .325 ( i forget its designation) I like 11/64th better than the 3/16th that most use.

Yes, using smaller files means you leave some gullet to clean out, and do have to be careful not to file too deep and impart too much "hook", but you don't file into the straps as much, even when tipping the handle down 10 degrees as I do to impart a steeper side plate angle.

Personally, I find a tiny bit more hook than some like seems to cut a bit faster, be smooth enough, and not wear or weaken abnormally fast.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

So, spark plugs never go bad, and size is irrelevant. Is this what you're arguing, Mike?

Guys that are totally diligent about using the factory recommended size file, and change their spark plugs every other tank of gas, are wasting their time, effort, and money.