rx7145
ArboristSite Guru
This thread needs more pictures!
Here is my 12ft 10K bringing home the bacon.
Here is my 12ft 10K bringing home the bacon.
This thread needs more pictures!
Here is my 12ft 10K bringing home the bacon.
I don't think your math is working out. If you trailer is 12ft long and you cut your wood exactly 16" you can get 9 rows stacks on your trailer. Your rows are 6ft wide and 4ft tall. That makes them 24sqft on the front. You need 96sqft on the front to make a cord. Nine rows times 24ft equals 216 front sqft. Divide that by 32(1/3) of a cord gives you 6.75 Divide that by 3(there are 3 4"x8'x16" stacks in a cord) That give you 2.25 cords if you stack that trailer full. Now if you cut your wood 16" I really doubt your getting 9 rows stacked because there us going to be a tad bit of space between the rows. So if you have a back gate it wouldn't close. So stacked that trailer is really gong to hold 8 rows. That would be 2 cord exactly. If you use the match that 180 cubic feet is a loose thrown cord then your only going to hold 1.6 cords. You'll get a little more then that because you'll mound it some. If you customers are happy with that then that is great for you.
The math works.. Again were not loading @ stacked face cords. The trl dimensions are 6'4" x 12'0" x 4'2". I assume a crowned height of 4'8" (based on geometric size of an obtuse cone). This works out to a volume of approx355 cubic feet. (6.333 x 12.0 x4.666 ), or a "loose fill" of 177 cubit feet. Since we cut a shorter length (14-16 ") the consolidation is more efficient.Based upon actual stacking from a loaded trailer we have determined that the the loose load @160 -170 c/f is relative to a nice stacked cord of 128 c/f. We have done this for a long time and have proved it in My own wood rack. Still asking the question... why use a 14' trailer unless the log splits are 20-24" long?? The longer the splits, the more inefficient loose stack will be. If you go to a 16' goose neck w/ 8' width you can really pull some wood, but you might be needing a CDL w/ a minimum 1-ton truck. Plus the added insurance costs....In CA any com'l use of a fifth-wheel requires a CDL, D.O.T. physical, CA numbers, and a stand - alone comm'l ins policy. Plus, make sure not overweight. The fines are o so scary.
I don't think it fits very well. I cut all my wood 16" and it would make it hard to load a trailer like that. You have no room to spare. It might work for you but it won't stack out for me.
Scott
I have a 78 K5 with a 60/14 axles(one ton setup) and a 05 f-250 diesel crew and a 04 trailblazer. All have over 5000lb tow rating.
kstill 361, I started out wanting a 6 x 10 10k deck over dump. Now I'm not sure!
Hauling a skid loader is not an issue. 1 guy I know started with a 7k deck over, switched to a 10k. Another guy bought a 10k deck over and loves it. When you talk to most of the trailer dealers, most of them say don't buy one. The dealer I'm talking to now, and probably will buy from, says his deck overs {SURE TRAC} are built very well and has sold many of them. I've bought other truck items from this guy over the years, and he's a straight shooter. The deck over would work better getting between my firewood stacks, 10 feet apart, 110+ feet long. But you don't see very many around. Cost wise, they are about 10% cheaper, and the way things are,every dollar counts! Loading height is not that big of a deal. Both trailers I'm looking at end up to be about 3" different in height, without side boards. Most of the time we will be hand loading. Take off 1 sideboard, load up, put sideboard back on, top off. Still trying to decide!
Mine is a deck over and I wish that it wasn't but I was buying used and couldn't be real picky.... About the only advantage that I can see for a deck over is you get more of the load dumped out before having to pull up, as mentioned earlier, a deck over will give you a shorter, taller pile of whatever you're dumping.
It seems to me that all the low pro dump trailers place the axles way back so theres just enough overhang for the bed to dump without hitting the ground, This could tend to easily cause excessive tounge weight. I never liked the look of the deckovers but now they seem mor apealing to me witht their axles at the correct ratio to the bed.. If i remeber right, a ten foot trailer should start in the middle and move back an inch for every foot of bed so the center axle point should be located at 70" back to give that 10% toung weight.
...If you own a dump trailer... you will overload it. Guaranteed. Right Guys??!!
Does anybody use a deckover and what are the pros and cons from low pros
Kevin
kstill 361, I started out wanting a 6 x 10 10k deck over dump. Now I'm not sure!
Hauling a skid loader is not an issue. 1 guy I know started with a 7k deck over, switched to a 10k. Another guy bought a 10k deck over and loves it. When you talk to most of the trailer dealers, most of them say don't buy one. The dealer I'm talking to now, and probably will buy from, says his deck overs {SURE TRAC} are built very well and has sold many of them. I've bought other truck items from this guy over the years, and he's a straight shooter. The deck over would work better getting between my firewood stacks, 10 feet apart, 110+ feet long. But you don't see very many around. Cost wise, they are about 10% cheaper, and the way things are,every dollar counts! Loading height is not that big of a deal. Both trailers I'm looking at end up to be about 3" different in height, without side boards. Most of the time we will be hand loading. Take off 1 sideboard, load up, put sideboard back on, top off. Still trying to decide!
Our PJ "low pro" dump has the axles in the exact same location as their reck-overs. The dump pivots on the frame, not the axles.
I have 6x10 Bri-Mar deck-over, purchased used. The con's would be hard to load by hand or with a small loader tractor. My kids sometimes help load and it limits what they can put in there.
It is nice for dumping, although I usually remove the tailgate for dumping firewood to protect it. Another pro for deckover would be hauling pallets as the sides would be accessible with removable sides.
For me a low profile would be a better fit.
They do sit alot higher, im not liking that.
:greenchainsaw: If you own a dump trailer... you will overload it. Guaranteed. Right Guys??!!
:greenchainsaw: If you own a dump trailer... you will overload it. Guaranteed. Right Guys??!!
why would they put underrated springs on there with heavier axles? is that a point of failure method? would they want the spring to go before the axle or is it for ride quality issues when empty(some people dont want the trailer bouncing around when empty)?
Good point, I guess its just each manufacturer preference where they put them. Depending on what the purpose of the trailer is hauling would determine where the axles need to be placed.
:greenchainsaw: If you own a dump trailer... you will overload it. Guaranteed. Right Guys??!!
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