Yesterday someone offered a vintage Echo solid nose 30'' Tsumura bar on a sort of Dutch Craigslist.
I was already thinking about a long bar for my CS 900 EVL and one must react if the right thing is available.
Tried to call him and mailed, today he called back.
Speaking about the Bar and Echo i tried not to get too enthusiast, he might think i am a collector and that is not good voor the trade.
Talking about the models he knew, he mentioned that they once sold a CST 600 EVL for a modelplane engine and kept all the parts that were not needed.
He had the starter side, gastank, underplate, barcover, chainbrake, everything exept the shortblock and ignition, new, never used.
Told him that i am looking for a barcover of a 610 and that i might take the rest if the price was right.
He asked the price of a new oregon bar of the same size for the whole trade, bar and parts, I did no lower bid, seemed sporty to me.
With the parts i can give one of my twins a totally new, unused look or trade them and have a bar for free. Think i go for the first and keep the parts that come off, waiting for another parts saw to show up.
Want to say that there are still a lot of parts around, be patient and talk to people, the rest is luck.
Will try to post some pictures when the parts arrived to make people jalous.
greetings from Holland
Jos.
Hi...In Australia both the CST 610 evl and the CST 600 evl are fairly rare but are 'around'. I have two of each. Perhaps experienced people could advise what parts do
interchange with other saws. One of mine for example is the only one I have seen (others may exist) that has a dog on the clutch cover as well as on the saw-frame.
Is that from a different saw?...if so that would be useful in saving replacement costs...or was it an option?
The 600 serial numbers are much lower than the 610, logically that may indicate a shorter production run. The 600 seems a sort of mystery perhaps as not released in USA.
My first 600 was ok but missing top bar...finally one came up for sale in USA...cost me best part of $100 Aussie all-up for a US.$25 item. OUCH!
Someone had welded one sometime broken (engagement) starter pawl. It was ultimately cheaper to buy a flywheel from another machine and take the pawls...another
close to $100 by the time it got to Australia.. I took a punt and bought a very similar looking trigger-set.from USA...wrong!!...another $75.00....Problem is there's no
apparent 'club' of collectors who will contribute to buying what comes along and selling to other collectors.
My first 600 and my second 610 had crook triggers. One broken bottom, one top. Ok I can make one set. I bought my second saws as they popped-up...after seeing what
I'd paid for the first two perhaps...about $980 the pair as they are. I spent 6 hours cleaning them....slacko's are typical in chainsaw users...use and forget until it dies.
From the second set I intend to fabricate a replacement top bar (for my first 600 which does not have one...indicating the owner may have had a better saw with one broken
sold it or lost it at some stage. I also want to and will fabricate trigger set pattern and some replacements. Some one tried it out of some kind of resin block on the second
610 but no good.
The first 600 had no spark on front plug and the pickup coil plastic was a bit crappy. I carefully stripped it out and checked pulse using a magnet and mA meter on the working
coil lead ..ok...continuity in the pick-up coil and fingers-crossed no shorted turns. I devised a replacement system using other parts and will do so if someone can send me a
dud ignition...I will not use mine as I discovered by excavating the 'filler' , a broken wire that feeds the front coil. Fixed that...now spark at both plugs. I'll bet that's been a
common fault causing throw-away.
To reseal the plastics assembly I range all around.I had a particular spec ....which included moulding malleability, would not stick to coil. I found a material down in Victoria
(2 part) which is said to fill my spec....$34.00. That's for a day when I am very calm and patient. Soon I'll have 4 working saws...then decide what to do. Access to those parts
from Holland would have been great!!
Twin cylinders are said by an older repairer to have had two problems...ignition failure and front piston damage scoring bore. Perhaps a slightly higher oil content and cleaning
air filter more-often might help. Watching U-tube however, it seems to me that the 'experts' commonly are poor users of the saws....they drive them. No!..a sharp saw should
cut under its own weight. Odd-ball angles and heights put strain on saw components not intended to take it...additionally such bizarre narcissism as 'racing' and 'hotting-up'
...which porting of muffler leans mixture and runs up temperature and reduces oil to cylinders, ...Prolonged cutting using tip, (morticing for example) and using blunt chains,
all stress a saw. Whilst engine mod's should be accompanied by likely ignition timing change, doing it correctly is a skilled operation in maximising life-span as well as power...
and torque and power are another relationship but I'll not go into it much here....I'll leave it as "one looks at the cross-over for best all around purpose".
I see here and there people complaining of the 610 being underpowered. The first thing to look at is yourself and the purpose of the saw. You don't get
80cc performance from a 60cc machine. I'd suggest twin cylinder machine may not produce the Torque or Hp of a similar single cylinder if one 'iffy' cylinder drags-down
the other and because rotating mass is higher with two pistons and crankshaft counterweights. Used as designed I'd say the twin 600 and 610 are very adequate.
Modern bars with sprocket nose might reduce drag...the original bars were basic.
Not cutting with the tip when one can cut with the flat logically allows greater efficiency for the engine. Another observation... dogs are used to locate a saw, using
them as second class lever fulcrums to drive the bar harder increases chain to bar friction and affects timing, wear and edge peel-over and this maintenance and
chain life.
Before I was an apprentice and tradesman, now engineer I watched my father using and sharpening hand tools, he a world-class (or leader) in his trade. At Tech.
we were taught how to properly use and maintain tools in electrical fitter-mechanic our 'fitter" classes. Today in Queensland any old mug electrician can call
himself or herself a 'fitter-mechanic because modern inspectors don't have a clue about whata fitter mechanic used to do and was taught to do.
Hand tools are designed, generally to be fitted with well sharpened attachments and operate under their own weight. That's why my tools lasted all my life. Modern
frenetic behaviour and demand for productivity sees people imagining they have to drive the tools and force the work...not knowing how to correctly-sharpen drills,
blades, augers and when to do it sees them working the metalware to death then using a new one...and 'new ones' may require sharpening before best results. I spent
half an hour sharpening any new chisel, some longer. Drills (the hand tool is a 'drilling machine' ) are commonly sharpened wrongly. Not cheap to buy the boss then
puts on a performance about breakage and yet watch a shearer ( Idid all my own shearing) ...as soon as the edge goes-off ..he replaces the comb and cutter from his
tool kit then sharpens them as required during break or after work... A chainsaw that's smoking from the chain has already passed the time it should have been
sharpened and possibly as well, the bar dressed.
Finally with Occupational health and Safety...which some people don't think is 'manly', chainsaw vibration causes disease no differently from using jack hammers. The
twin cylinder saws minimised that and … criticise me if you wish....reliable twin cylinder chainsaws ought to replace the single cylinder ones. Of course for heavy
professional use weight is a large factor. Perhaps there's room there for modern materials intervention. I don't think the Wankel engine saw (Sachs) or the twin verticals
are ideal. The old Echo did it best.
Has anyone any interest in collecting the serial numbers of twins left alive...or found dead? and grouping say even emails to advise of parts?
Cheers
I believe this one has the 2 cylinders firing forward and back instead of the Solo? twin design that had 2 cylinders next to each other firing upwards. Again anyone know anything about this saw? I am led to think from somewhere in the back of the rarely used part of my brain, that this one has an auto oiler with manual backup while the one above has a manual only oiler. Plus it looks a more modern design than the other anyway. Owner has not replied back yet to my questions. Details says that it is 60cc and in very good working order and has not seen much wood as it was bought to replace an Echo 610 twin that broke and was then repaired. 
...Bob
