I am kicking this off with one video while I wait on the few parts I ordered to arrive. The control handle. Was a great puzzle. To attach the handle bar one screw goes under the switch shaft. The handle seems to be high quality, of course I don't have it attached yet. So it will be a bit before i know about fitment. I found nothing in the handle that made me want to go to the Stihl store. I am adding tips on the MS200t section on http://thechainsawkitguy.com because you get locked out here and I can not correct things without hassle.
FarmerTec MS200t Chainsaw Build Thread
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Here is the youtube playlist for reference for this build.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9Q3gd5dU2Ld-wpNEw7h0xzAPsrNCt3ww
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9Q3gd5dU2Ld-wpNEw7h0xzAPsrNCt3ww
I spent some time dry fitting the case. This is quite different in this manner. Stihl designed this so when they assembled it they had wiring run through the case itself. In the manual of course they don't have clear illustrations and we all know how IPLs are presented. I am considering how to proceed with it. I mean I think I will fit the case half's with the intended passengers, since the bearing are not a tight fit I think I can do it without pinching anything. I could go fishing.
And another thing i am looking at is the rubber grommets. It feels like there needs to be two identical grommets for the contact kill wire and the coil wire fitted on the two case opening, the kit only has one gromment like i think would be best. It has a small indent for the kill wire and the opening also holds the coil wire. I am going to look into that next week. One came in the kit I could buy another. if its not intended i think it would be an improvement. The second has a slit.
And another thing i am looking at is the rubber grommets. It feels like there needs to be two identical grommets for the contact kill wire and the coil wire fitted on the two case opening, the kit only has one gromment like i think would be best. It has a small indent for the kill wire and the opening also holds the coil wire. I am going to look into that next week. One came in the kit I could buy another. if its not intended i think it would be an improvement. The second has a slit.
So I read alabama xl post in what's in the box about the farmertec 200t's manifold deforming from heat. I thought I had seen another person had posted before. When I was unboxing it I twisted the boot as the boot takes abuse from the handle/av system, making a mental note of the material. I silently wondered if it was silicone because it did not look like rubber, so it must be plastic since they are melting.
So I will run to the Stihl store. I am certain the engine gets hot but it has to be the boot fault, ethanol can melt rubber and plastic but the fuel line would have failed first, it's swimming in it
Boot=40$
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
So I will run to the Stihl store. I am certain the engine gets hot but it has to be the boot fault, ethanol can melt rubber and plastic but the fuel line would have failed first, it's swimming in it
Boot=40$
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
I noticed today that my oil hose folds and shuts off in the way it falls naturally, that means no oil or less oil output which would make you suspect something is wrong with the oiler. The list is growing.
I got the additional gromment and dry fitted it and i think it is better with both sides sealed up well and the kill wire held in place preventing the wire from kinking over time. the manual mentions the kinking, not sure if that was a heads up over some issue they feared. after stepping through this i decided to get a dealer kill wire, as i do not want to fish those wires in my saws lifetime.
every wonder what a stihl tech makes. here you can ball park what you would make if you keep up with it.
so its broken down in to non-current models 020,051,070,090 etc and then regular chainsaws and the 200t is still in that group. this comes out of the stihl company repair times guidelines
below are times for the 200t
replace a case, stripping it down and rebuilding it, placing the gasket and sealer + plus the air leak tests you have 140 minutes, 2hs 20. i can make money on that
crankshaft 130 minutes + air leak test
this is a basic test with addons, cylinder failure, why, fixes, testing your base amount is 70 minutes
coil or flywheel, including the stop circuit test 70 minutes
replace the fuel line, tank vent, or fuel pickup body 25 minutes replace the manifold is 30 minutes, with leak test. i push it at 30, more like 40.
so you replace or repair a carb you are paid the same, so you sell them a new carb, tune, test 35 minutes instead of fighting a losing battle by fixing it and it not run right
replace the fuel tank , test it. 30 minutes
oil seals 60 minutes
case bearings 60 minutes
replace or repair rewind 20 minutes
repair or replace clutch, clutch shoes or springs 20, that is cutting it close
chain brake repair 20 minutes
replace muffler 25
replace air filter 15 minutes ( the extra minutes can help you come out even on a clutch job
repair, replace the stop switch 20 minutes
get 25minutes of alone time to do a SEC checklist, it helps you step by step to cover the systems involved to help you find the cause.
5 minutes for handling the saw. no labor
if its not covered its 15 minutes
my rates 85 an hour includes one way mileage truck to you door, when your done see what it cost/profit was. then for poor people there repair is free and i present a bill and can write off the proper amount on taxes. so this is fun. the more you do it the better your numbers become. like if you only work on 200t, you can squeeze a lot out that fee schedule. if you want a copy pm me your email and i will send you one
so its broken down in to non-current models 020,051,070,090 etc and then regular chainsaws and the 200t is still in that group. this comes out of the stihl company repair times guidelines
below are times for the 200t
replace a case, stripping it down and rebuilding it, placing the gasket and sealer + plus the air leak tests you have 140 minutes, 2hs 20. i can make money on that
crankshaft 130 minutes + air leak test
this is a basic test with addons, cylinder failure, why, fixes, testing your base amount is 70 minutes
coil or flywheel, including the stop circuit test 70 minutes
replace the fuel line, tank vent, or fuel pickup body 25 minutes replace the manifold is 30 minutes, with leak test. i push it at 30, more like 40.
so you replace or repair a carb you are paid the same, so you sell them a new carb, tune, test 35 minutes instead of fighting a losing battle by fixing it and it not run right
replace the fuel tank , test it. 30 minutes
oil seals 60 minutes
case bearings 60 minutes
replace or repair rewind 20 minutes
repair or replace clutch, clutch shoes or springs 20, that is cutting it close
chain brake repair 20 minutes
replace muffler 25
replace air filter 15 minutes ( the extra minutes can help you come out even on a clutch job
repair, replace the stop switch 20 minutes
get 25minutes of alone time to do a SEC checklist, it helps you step by step to cover the systems involved to help you find the cause.
5 minutes for handling the saw. no labor
if its not covered its 15 minutes
my rates 85 an hour includes one way mileage truck to you door, when your done see what it cost/profit was. then for poor people there repair is free and i present a bill and can write off the proper amount on taxes. so this is fun. the more you do it the better your numbers become. like if you only work on 200t, you can squeeze a lot out that fee schedule. if you want a copy pm me your email and i will send you one
The missing video above was updated and you can find it in the link to the playlist above, no reason to post it again.
The video below is putting crank in and closing it up. Waiting on the piston bearing and I will finish it. I notice I don't have the flange to close the exhaust to pressure test it in place. Maybe I can do that before putting the plastic on it. The manifold that came in my kit was much smaller than the oem boot. That must be causing people problems if they have the same one and are not aware of the difference. The oem boot fit is much tighter on the cylinder that my previous saws.
The video below is putting crank in and closing it up. Waiting on the piston bearing and I will finish it. I notice I don't have the flange to close the exhaust to pressure test it in place. Maybe I can do that before putting the plastic on it. The manifold that came in my kit was much smaller than the oem boot. That must be causing people problems if they have the same one and are not aware of the difference. The oem boot fit is much tighter on the cylinder that my previous saws.
Axotopia
ArboristSite Member
BedfordT, thanks for the effort posting videos and pictures of your build process, it's a great resource for all those folks out there trying out the Huztl MS200T Kit. I am learning new things myself specific to Farmertec parts like the boot and oil line. Keep up the great work!
Thank you. It's something I enjoy. Nice of you to speak up.
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
I got the bearing and the slide today. I can not install the retainer for the manifold. I got it on video so you can see for yourself, but this is CRAZY. The retainer on the kit manifold I am sure fits fine. This just will not go on and that is using every trick in the book. If I beat on it any more I am going to break something. I pressure tested it with my thumb and it leaks like a seize at the base gasket and no wonder. But that seal is fine so i know what to do now with the base gasket. I have not overlooked anything. I can not understand why it does not fit other than that ring is just a hair to small, which when they clone something a mm or two is the norm. the oem manifold is thicker. I said that the oem manifold fits extra tight so it could be the exhaust port on the cylinder that is larger and that accounts for this issue. if its something like that i could use a metal clamp but i am not clear on how that will work out for the case/handle.
i am going to walk away from it and start again tomorrow. i will see if anyone has a retainer, that will be the best case scenario here.
In the past a kit took time to debug and I see folks are skipped that part, that is an important step to get a runner.
i am going to walk away from it and start again tomorrow. i will see if anyone has a retainer, that will be the best case scenario here.
In the past a kit took time to debug and I see folks are skipped that part, that is an important step to get a runner.
A Dremel has been suggested, I am leaning towards sandpaper. I ordered a toasty used oem plate here by Friday. So we can see if problem is the plate. Huztl ingored me. By then we can move on. You will know what to expect
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
sir, all the kits you have built,,what is huztl problem with ignoring you???
Hello Oly,
Maybe they are looking into it, lol. Some sandpaper solved my problem. On Friday I will start again towards the end. Some folks been gluing their boots on, I am going to work it out with a dry boot.
Either the carb studs are too short by 3/8” or the plastic bullhead is too thick.[emoji848]
And, yes, I drove the studs into the handle until they bottomed put.
Can’t get the other nut to catch a thread.
And, yes, I drove the studs into the handle until they bottomed put.
Can’t get the other nut to catch a thread.
Need some of my sandpaper? Common sense says they should have assembled a couple, I thought that was their plan. Sux. We will be saying yeah the kit works out but you gotta buy sandpaper, lolEither the carb studs are too short by 3/8” or the plastic bullhead is too thick.[emoji848]
And, yes, I drove the studs into the handle until they bottomed put.
Can’t get the other nut to catch a thread.
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://www.youtube.com/the1chainsawguy
Revise the above studs are 3/16” too short.
I could easily solve the problem with a spot face tool in my drill press.
Also:
The holes in the plastic parts need to be drilled larger. Way too much interference fit with the self tapping screws.
Snapped the head off one and had to drill it out.
I could easily solve the problem with a spot face tool in my drill press.
Also:
The holes in the plastic parts need to be drilled larger. Way too much interference fit with the self tapping screws.
Snapped the head off one and had to drill it out.
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