Home-built log roller / peavey

[Mike Kunte]

Hi Guys!

Thought you might like to see the pair of log rollers I built last year. I can't take credit for the design though....
Anyway, I'll upload some pics of the build process. Went for bright colours so that they would be visible in the bush. Also, I could not source any 1/4 inch Aluminium for the handles, so settled on schedule 40 steel pipe. It's proved plenty strong - we have pushed these rollers hard - so hard, that the handles bend under pressure. I'm certain that the Alu would have bent to failure... They are heavier, for sure, but largely unbreakable (so far).

The jack stands are also removable to reveal the peavey point, which can also be retracted into the body. This was a bit of overkill, since we rarely have frozen logs to separate in South Africa... Just wanted it as a feature. Post is a bit pic heavy, but enjoy...

The pics are not in any specific order, but you can sort of see the different stages of progress. The only parts I had laser cut were the hooks and the tapered pinch plate, which were both made from 6mm Hardox, which is a kind of armour plating...

 

[Mike Kunte]

As can be seen from the pics, all the welds were done with the MIG welder. Not particularly pretty, but plenty strong enough... The jack feet were made from 6mm Ali. That can save your chain's cutters if you accidentally cut into them. Steel feet would destroy the cutters completely...

The countersunk screws were replaced with stainless steel countersunk screws with a hex head on the final product. These last well, and look much better.

 

[Mike Kunte]

As can be seen below, I turned stainless steel pins and inserted little R-pins, so that the foot and peavey spikes can be removed and re-inserted in the field without the use of tools. Finish is red and yellow powder coat.

 

[milkman]

I like those, especially the hooks. I have a Log rite peavey that has an aluminum handle but I like the weight and balance of the old wood handle cant hooks.

 

[Mike Kunte]

I like those, especially the hooks. I have a Log rite peavey that has an aluminum handle but I like the weight and balance of the old wood handle cant hooks.

The hooks are nice to work with, especially since they can accommodate logs from about 6" all the way up to 40". They really grab and bite, as you can see in the pic where I'm testing them out on the stump. They bite hard and deep!

This was my first experience using log rollers, so I can't comment on the wooden handles. It sounds good though.

 

[Mike Kunte]

Quick update... I was packing the log-roller in for use over the weekend, and found that I had indeed caused a small bend in the pipe handle, caused by heavy use!!! Anyway, it's not enough to cause problems, but just goes to show how much abuse some of our tools have to undergo....

 

[hannes69]

Nice "little" tools
Massive hooks! Their shape should allow to flip small and large diameters equally well.
These log-rollers have a very professional impression to me. Ah yes, and in wood work you can bend everything... Like always it´s all about the compromise between stability and weight.
Your tools look ready for heavy duty use

 

[trains]

Great work, and application of design, can see how they would be handy.
I love my hook, I got it from sneddens fencing here in au.

On your project, one thing I noticed with the welds to the plates that hold the hook arm on, they look a little cold, like the weld has not penetrated enough into the plate material, but only on the outside, its a bit difficult to see clearly from the photos, the lifting foot looks fine as its thinner material, but the pole and plate looks like it needed a few more amps.
Just trying to offer some constructive feedback/ helpful criticism for you, and not put you down. Or did you do 2 or 3 passes and its the top one ?
Either way, handy piece of kit, well done on making it yourself, and fine tuning it to suit what your doing, good work.

T

 

[Mike Kunte]

Hey T!

Thanks so much for your response - and constructive criticism is always appreciated! Living is learning, I always say! I believe you are right - although I pushed the amps quite a bit (I had good thick-walled material to work with), I think your trained eye spotted the cold part of the weld! I received my welding certification from the University of YouTube, (read self-taught) and have a long way to go yet! There are no welds on the inside (between the 2 plates), because there was no access there, which means that I ran an extra bead or two on the outside of the plates for strength!

Since your reply, I saw a small crack starting around the "ball" ending of the weld. I hope it will not propagate any further, but if it does, I'll reweld with "hotter" settings!

Keep well, and safe cutting!

 

[trains]

Hey T!

Thanks so much for your response - and constructive criticism is always appreciated! Living is learning, I always say! I believe you are right - although I pushed the amps quite a bit (I had good thick-walled material to work with), I think your trained eye spotted the cold part of the weld! I received my welding certification from the University of YouTube, (read self-taught) and have a long way to go yet! There are no welds on the inside (between the 2 plates), because there was no access there, which means that I ran an extra bead or two on the outside of the plates for strength!

Since your reply, I saw a small crack starting around the "ball" ending of the weld. I hope it will not propagate any further, but if it does, I'll reweld with "hotter" settings!

Keep well, and safe cutting!

To stop a crack propagating further, just find the end of the crack and drill it with a fine drill.
You could heat up the welds with oxy if you have it, or a good charcoal fire ie forge, and get it dull red and then allow to cool slowly, ie bury in sand, will take out the stress and tension that the weld created and prevent further cracking as the material around the weld shrank when welding.

Hope your getting lost of use out of them, they look sturdy.

T

 

[Mike Kunte]

To stop a crack propagating further, just find the end of the crack and drill it with a fine drill.
You could heat up the welds with oxy if you have it, or a good charcoal fire ie forge, and get it dull red and then allow to cool slowly, ie bury in sand, will take out the stress and tension that the weld created and prevent further cracking as the material around the weld shrank when welding.

Hope your getting lost of use out of them, they look sturdy.

T

Thanks, Trains! Great info, and yes I'm getting a lot of good use out of them!

The welds aren't too bad for a pharmacist!

 

[trains]

Thanks, Trains! Great info, and yes I'm getting a lot of good use out of them!

The welds aren't too bad for a pharmacist!

Good to hear, hey what makes you think being a pharmacist lets you get away with lesser welds , hey there ok, just wanted to offer some coaching as it were. Im always learning each day too.

 

[Mike Kunte]

Good to hear, hey what makes you think being a pharmacist lets you get away with lesser welds , hey there ok, just wanted to offer some coaching as it were. Im always learning each day too.

BTW, you get 11 out of 10 for spotting the cold weld. Not easy to do, especially on a photo!

 

[Spectre468]

Nicely done, sir!!

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I have several from different suppliers using wood for the handle. A few of mine have a ten foot heavy steel handle for moving a round or two from a log. Getting a tractor or winch on hand is not always the fastest so peavey can be a real asset. Thanks