Husqvarna 550XP - Breaking in questions

[rullywowr]

Wow. Got my first Husky on Friday, the 550XP with an 18" bar wearing .325" 21 LP 72 full chisel chain and it is a beast. I have about 4 tanks through it so far but it was a monster even through some seasoned big white oak logs (like 3-4 foot diameter). The only time I bogged it when I was cutting some dense wet red oak. Got about 4 big pickup truckloads of huge chunks we are going to split up this week. My arms are sore to say the least today.

My question is regarding the red choke lever. It seems when the saw is hot - to restart, you have to pull up/flick the lever up to "Choke" and then push down to engage "half throttle lock". Is this normal and something that I will have to do every time when it is warm or is it just because the saw is new and it still needs to break in?

It would seem that the design was intedend when you push the lever down to "stop" it automatically returns to "run" so ideally you could just tug the pull start and go again. I am sure it is breaking in, when I ran the first tank through it - it had trouble idling. Now it idles fine and seems to get more power every tank thus far. Of course I am keeping the chain sharp and out of the dirt too.

Thanks guys, your experience is awesome. Did I mention I love this saw? Smooth, so much power. The guy at the local shop was talking about the 550XP and said "That is a Husky that doesn't have any tassels" haha

Full report to come when I break her on in a bit more.

 

[SawTroll]

What the manual describes for warm starts means the "high idle" will be set.

When most saws are really warm, it works to just set them to "on", which means that you don't have to do anything but pull the start rope on that saw. I have never seen a single manual that mention this option though, likely because it isn't "idiot proof"!

 

[rullywowr]

Thanks SawTroll... you certainly are the man of all things Husky! I guess it is "high-idle" and idiot proof then.

 

[blsnelling]

This issue has been reported several times now. It seems to get better as the saw breaks in. I've not experienced it on mine, so a muffler mod may help.

 

[Fedaburger]

Congratulations on the new purchase awesome.

 

[Joe Kidd]

Congrats! I believe on mine the "stop" lever just returns to a run position for a hot restart. Had no warm start issues as it's still new and I'm waiting on the muff to come back.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Hi idle hot start helped mine tremendously when it was new. It got better with some run time. I haven't got to run it much in about a month so I cant hardly remember if it still needed it any or not. I'd for sure do a muffler mod, best thing I done to mine yet .

 

[rullywowr]

Thanks guys...muffler mod is at the top of my list. Is there a thread for 550XP muffler mods or should I just follow the same for the 346XP (which the 550XP replaced). Does anyone sell pre-modded OEM mufflers?

This 550XP is smooth, powerful. It acts like a bigger (60cc?) saw. Very happy with my purchase even though I was highly considering (and going back and forth between) a Stihl MS261. Wood doesn't stand a chance.

 

[blsnelling]

There's not really room on the 550 for an extra port like the 346. Just open up the factory port.

 

[komatsuvarna]

There's not really room on the 550 for an extra port like the 346. Just open up the factory port.

:agree2:, Plus their isn't a single flat spot to put an extra screw on deflector. You could probably weld one on if ya just wanted to.

On mine, I was careful and cut out all the internal junk through the muffler inlet. I had to use about every tool I had, but eventually got most of it out leaving the OEM deflector untouched. OEM screen still fits perfectly too. A 90* handpiece came in real handy cutting the exit hole bigger. Just be sure to keep it under the deflector.

 

[SawTroll]

From another thread;

.....
Here's some pics of my muffler mod.....I wanted to be able to figure out something that could be screened.

In the inlet these holes in the baffle seem fine for a unported 50cc saw. I may open them as part of the porting process in the next step, but for now it is unaltered.

This paint looks blushed until it is heated. After a run in it evens out to a nice color.

Yeah this strut moved a little.

Close to the brake handle....but not quite touching.

 

[rullywowr]

Wow, thanks! I guess there is no real size hole to drill, just reach in through the factory port and start cutting out muffler baffles? Looks like a job for my Dremel? Did it make much of a difference to the 550XP performance? 10%/20%? I am curious how fast the onboard computer will learn the new porting as well - kinda like an OBDII computer on a car does.

I love how the computer does adjust perfectly, when I lift the saw out of the cut it four-strokes just as it should but is one angry SOB when deep in the wood.

 

[blsnelling]

Search is your friend. There are several recent threads that answer all your questions. It's with close to 25% on this model.

 

[SawTroll]

More exemples, from differtent threads;

.


So, of course, i can't leave anything stock for long. I opened the muffler a little to see if it liked it. I think it did.

I cut another port adjacent to the first one. I think I roughly doubled the outlet area.


Untitled by zweitakt250, on Flickr

I TIG'ed a cover back over the ports. It has a little more overhang than stock.


Untitled by zweitakt250, on Flickr


The "after" video. Almost like shooting fish in a barrel. I never even touched the carb...


<iframe width="588" height="441" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/HQSx9nuH_6c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>







.

A few have requested pics of the muffler mod. It's nothing fancy or pretty. Matter of fact, these close up pics make it look aweful!

As from the factory, there is a pipe that exits near the center of the area under the deflector. I lifted the deflector and ground away the area to the right of the pipe. I left the left side intact in order to hold the pipe securely. This is a little more open than it was before tonight.

Also before tonight, I had not modded this internal baffle. It has several good size holes in it from the factory. I ground the area out from inbetween three of these holes. It's quite a bit throatier and louder than it was. Should you not want the extra volume, don't mess with this baffle. It will flow plenty sufficiently as made.

 

[SawTroll]

...... and another;

Couldn't wait any longer.

 

[Tzed250]

Congrats! I believe on mine the "stop" lever just returns to a run position for a hot restart. Had no warm start issues as it's still new and I'm waiting on the muff to come back.

It will be leaving for NC within the hour

 

[blsnelling]

IMHO, I don't think there's much to be gained by adding an additional port, or by gutting the baffle. Lifting the factory deflector and opening up the existing opening is all you need. Anything more will only serve to make it louder.

 

[rullywowr]

IMHO, I don't think there's much to be gained by adding an additional port, or by gutting the baffle. Lifting the factory deflector and opening up the existing opening is all you need. Anything more will only serve to make it louder.

Thanks Brad. Sounds simple enough, I will give it a try soon. Can't believe it will get even MORE powerful! :male-fighter2:

 

[Joe Kidd]

Thanks Brad. Sounds simple enough, I will give it a try soon. Can't believe it will get even MORE powerful! :male-fighter2:

More powerful than a speeding locomotive, able to leap tall buildings...... uh wait....sorry, That's another story!

 

[Jet47]

Great thread.

My 550 arrived to day as well.
Should I leave it 'stock' and use it a couple of days?, or should I do a muff mod? Decisions, decisions...