List of Upgrades to Vermeer SC252

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Just decided to do some testing. Let me give some insight. Remove all teeth and pockets but two pair opposite each other. Trust me, try it and you will believe. Right now, I am using two pair of angled green teeth pockets opposite (obviously) of each other. Wow. You can still bog the engine if you grab too much indicating enough cutter for the HP, but I barely bog the engine now due to much less parasitic loss of the other teeth. I would say I'm at least 30% faster cutting. Wonder why Greenwheel uses only 6 teeth at 0 and 180 degree, well this is why. Two pair of teeth, opposite is what I am running. The reason I started reducing and testing pocket number mainly was to reduce the number of teeth to swap out from sharp new teeth/clean soil, to dull teeth/ rocky soil. One job I may have soil with no rock and a huge stump. I will put in brand new teeth for a huge increase in cutting speed. Next job, if any pebbles are present I will switch back to used teeth. Stock, with 8 pairs of pockets and 16 teeth that's a lot of time. Now, 2 pair of pockets, and 4 teeth, that's 1/4 the time. Used to take me 20 minutes, now takes me 5. Plus, 1/4 the price, 1/4 the needed backup, only four teeth, who would of thought.
Trust me, go out in the morning, take off all your pockets except for two opposite each other, and love it when your machine rarely bogs down and your smile goes up!
 
Is this running the auto sweep? My only concern would be passing by wood and not grinding it may not even be an issue
 
Yes, leave only 4 teeth. No auto sleep. Don't worry about your concern, just try it : ). I should have realized this about 10 years ago after knowing full skip chain is faster cutting than full comp. Half the teeth, yet plenty to still bog the engine. Less to sharpen in both instances.
 
For the 34HP Kohler upgrade to my '00 252, check this thread : http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/252-kohler-34-hp-upgrade.268014/

Also, while down,I completely rebuilt the whole machine with all new shafts, bushings,and bearings , belts,etc ( after 14 yrs service , I thought it was time..!)

And to increase ground speed , I regeared the drive system.. Went from a 16 tooth sprocket on the drive motor to a 20 Tooth sprocket( $16.00 at the local bearing place).. Minor machining on the drive hub to clear adjuster bolts and Bada-bing...much faster machine..didn't seem to lose any power ... still climbs out of the hole over the grindings
Tried regearing the pump, as has been previously covered, and all I gained was a terrific "howl" from the overdriven pump due to cavitation...Went back to stock setup and decided the better way was to regear the motor/drive system...
 
Hey guys for your information (FYI) I did the three inch hydraulic pulley mod a year ago and I had the same high pitched squeal. I chose to ignore it. Last mont I ended up replacing a $600 hydraulic pump mine burnt up. Decided to go half way on the mod with a four inch dia pulley. Still whines a bit. But I love the extra speed
 
You paid about 3-6x's what a pump should have cost. I have been using both my machines for years with small pump pulley, no probs. I love that it increases boom speed so you can move the cutter head a lot faster. Move chips aside, move the machine side to side, etc.
 
Just decided to do some testing. Let me give some insight. Remove all teeth and pockets but two pair opposite each other. Trust me, try it and you will believe. Right now, I am using two pair of angled green teeth pockets opposite (obviously) of each other. Wow. You can still bog the engine if you grab too much indicating enough cutter for the HP, but I barely bog the engine now due to much less parasitic loss of the other teeth. I would say I'm at least 30% faster cutting. Wonder why Greenwheel uses only 6 teeth at 0 and 180 degree, well this is why. Two pair of teeth, opposite is what I am running. The reason I started reducing and testing pocket number mainly was to reduce the number of teeth to swap out from sharp new teeth/clean soil, to dull teeth/ rocky soil. One job I may have soil with no rock and a huge stump. I will put in brand new teeth for a huge increase in cutting speed. Next job, if any pebbles are present I will switch back to used teeth. Stock, with 8 pairs of pockets and 16 teeth that's a lot of time. Now, 2 pair of pockets, and 4 teeth, that's 1/4 the time. Used to take me 20 minutes, now takes me 5. Plus, 1/4 the price, 1/4 the needed backup, only four teeth, who would of thought.
Trust me, go out in the morning, take off all your pockets except for two opposite each other, and love it when your machine rarely bogs down and your smile goes up!
Have you tried our New wearsharp Teeth? Are you running the 900? Series?
 
I have not tried the wear sharp, but I will test them and leave a review here if you send me some. I am using the 700 series. I think I may step up to the 900's for durability, but only after all my 700 hardware is worn out.
 
Been running the 4 tooth Alpine Rhino for over a year. Love it. So should be no reason a four tooth of other manufacturer shouldn't work as well.
Since the old Multi-tip teeth fit in the Rhino wheel I tried that a couple weeks ago in some really rocky soil that I didn't want to ruin the Rhino teeth, worked just fine too.

Stumper63
 
I have green teeth on a stock wheel, guess I will give the switch to 4 teeth a try. Anyone know of any downside to this?
 
No down side except quicker grinding, much less teeth to change, much lower cost when hitting rock, and 5 minute teeth swaps. Next step when I change cutter wheel bearing, I'm going to have all the cutter wheel LASER'ed off except the 4 inches of steel 180 degrees opposite for mounting the four pockets. The wheel with or without teeth will contact dirt and bog the machine.
 
I would dare to say the ultimate cutting system will be a single large rotatable tooth opposite each other on the wheel. Only two teeth. Like an 1100 series GreenTeeth.
 
Any tips on removing stuck main pivot under the machine which allows boom up and down? Smacked with an 8lb sledge and drift pin and nothing. Next phase is to heat it up, but that's going to toast the paint job...
 

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