KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
not sure if I ever did post any pics but it was filed away in the back of my mind and I got a picture today:
Modifications you really like/or things you tried that didn't work out.
- Thread starter Sandhill Crane
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I did follow your lead on the table top, an excellent mod, and will have to try the four bolts as well.
The guys name eludes me at the moment, Lansing, MI area, but he sent me some sealed bearing that worked very well for a couple years. Back to the original style that needs daily maintenance when in use.
A couple things about adding the top.
First is it is fairly easy to work with as the material cuts similar to wood, although a vacuum system would be handy. Skill saw, table saw, jig saw (any of these) and a router to round over sharp edges.
I used self tapping screws. Sheet metal bolts would be better if you ever want to remove the top. I get dust and fines that vibrate back under the top from the out feed end even though it extends a 1/4" past the steel. I've broken a couple screws trying to remove them.
If you relocate the steel table bracket from resting on top of the beam, to hanging below the bottom of the beam, you gain (I forget you will have to measure it) the thickness of the beam. 3/8" or something. And I no longer get jammed up like the first photo with just the steel.
Originally the black paint was slippery, but it wears off. The bare steel rusts and then sliding wood on it is more difficult until the rust wears off. But then it rusts again.
KiwiBro came up with a fantastic mod for $100, maybe $125.
First photo is steel top.
The guys name eludes me at the moment, Lansing, MI area, but he sent me some sealed bearing that worked very well for a couple years. Back to the original style that needs daily maintenance when in use.
A couple things about adding the top.
First is it is fairly easy to work with as the material cuts similar to wood, although a vacuum system would be handy. Skill saw, table saw, jig saw (any of these) and a router to round over sharp edges.
I used self tapping screws. Sheet metal bolts would be better if you ever want to remove the top. I get dust and fines that vibrate back under the top from the out feed end even though it extends a 1/4" past the steel. I've broken a couple screws trying to remove them.
If you relocate the steel table bracket from resting on top of the beam, to hanging below the bottom of the beam, you gain (I forget you will have to measure it) the thickness of the beam. 3/8" or something. And I no longer get jammed up like the first photo with just the steel.
Originally the black paint was slippery, but it wears off. The bare steel rusts and then sliding wood on it is more difficult until the rust wears off. But then it rusts again.
KiwiBro came up with a fantastic mod for $100, maybe $125.
First photo is steel top.
The switch on my Powermatic is low and to the left. Not only not handy it seems in just the wrong spot. Bend over, face in line with blade and low to table every time to shut it off. I now step sideways and use my right hand. Head still down low but off to one side.
I changed how I work. Moving the switch would be better.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Do you ever get thin stuff forced between plastic and table? I was worried about that so welded the rebar the leading edge of the plastic tucks in behind. If it's a non issue for you I certainly like your pattern compared the mine.
Moded my dump with a winch and an arch
husqvarna257
ArboristSite Guru
Good to know about the mingo marker, I was going to get one. I took a sticker from lowes and cut it to the length I need for OWB wood. Spray can of any bright color thats cheap and mark up a pile of logs. I never used to care about log length but my wife will stack the 10 cords of wood for the OWB Neatly and precise if I split them smaller. Chucking the wood in a pile was my old method but I would be leaving lots of wood outside of the 10-20 shed. Before this I had a 10-20 tent that I took down in the fall and skids for a floor but that sucked in winter uncovering the tarps and my feet would slip in the skids
husqvarna257
ArboristSite Guru
I give what the heck is ]UHMWPE
No picture but I made a story stick out of metal band . Its bent at a 90° looks like a big L so I can stand as I mark the logs . Also use paving marker paint with the extension again so i can mark without bending over. It just makes it easier to stack and takes all of a minute.
I'm pretty good at judging the cuts but when you change saws often with different bars it takes a few cuts to adjust to different bars size and saw . All proportional estimation. If I go from the 16 inch husky to the 28 inch on the dolmar I tend to also make the rounds longer
For kindling I just save and use the slivers that pile up under the splitter and put them in some old 30 gallon nursery tree buckets and let dry. They light easy and I keep a dawn dish soap squirt bottle with diesel in it. A hand full of splitting scraps a little squirt of diesel one match and we have a fire. If there is just the smallest of coals still glowing I'll rake them up together and a hand full of kindling and an old hair dryer to force some air into it and in seconds we have a fire going. The hair dryer puts a steady supply of air unlike the bellows that puff then puff again. The steady air lights it much faster cause it gets the coals hot and keeps them hot. Where a bellows puffs and stops as you draw more air in the bellows to make a short puff again. The small hair dryers on low work best so it doesn't blow ashes all over. I actually use one of those heat shrink tubing blowers that you use for electronics the shrink the tubing. It not only blows a genital flow of air but it's hot air and it will make a red coal turn white hot and keep it hot and it starts a fire very quickly.
Damn auto correct.
Damn auto correct.
Yeah I does make me look foolish sometimes when I don't catch it. I think my problem is my keyboard is wearing out. May be time for a new one.
Yeah I does make me look foolish sometimes when I don't catch it. I think my problem is my keyboard is wearing out. May be time for a new one.
Hey I will be the first to admit my spellin ain't the greatest. And I will admit I'm so far off that auto correct doesn't always give me the right choice of options to chose from. So I have to go to google and try there for the correct spelling, and sometimes it says,I have no idea of what your trying to spell. My key board is wearing out and I look up and there are all these red lines where a letter didn't register. Plus I'm dyslectic so that doesn't help ether. But I try.
It's all goodYeah I does make me look foolish sometimes when I don't catch it. I think my problem is my keyboard is wearing out. May be time for a new one.
Dont sweat it. I cant spell worth a **** .
milkie62
ArboristSite Guru
After reading some posts in the splitter threads my down the road new splitter build I was thinking of adding a hoist w/winch to drag big rounds to the splitter to get them on the log lift. How big a winch is needed ? 5000 lb ?
Good lord no. Your not trying to drag the whole tree. I have been looking at a gorrillaback log lift and the log lift is limited to 250 lb and there dragging and lifting big rounds up to fifty feet.
This was there last email to me of some questions I have been asking about there product.
From gorillaback "
Again, it is interesting to see comments on blogs regarding the subject. The battery should not be a limiting factor in your ability to pull, lift, position and hold your firewood logs for splitting or loading into a pickup truck. In fact, a freshly charged $29 battery from walmart pulled fifty 200+ pound logs located 50 foot from the splitter. It also lifted and processed the wood making 5 pickup truckloads from main trunk of 3 big oak. Generally, the wood is much closer than 50 foot away but we put it to the test in 2013.
We have not had a customer complaint regarding battery being an issue. The truth is that it only takes about 20 amps to pull a 250 pound log across the ground and a lawn and garden battery weighs under 20 pounds. Again, comical to see blogs from guys who talk about not liking Gorillabac idea because they would have to strain to lug around a 50 pound marine battery to run it. You dont need to.
The winch cable is 50 foot. The cycle time depends on many factors including distance pulled, weight of log, slope and terrain that it is being pulled through/across.
The Gorillabac Grip Screw wheel and screw shank comes with the Gorillabac 3803. Additional Gorillabac grips and a spike kit are also available. Roughly 50% of the customers order a second Gorillabac Grip after using the system for a few weeks to a few years. About 10% order the replacement screw shank that includes a second shank that is roughly an inch longer.
Like most any outdoor power equipment, the Gorillabac system can be used in rain and snow. However, equipment is not waterproof and will not stand up to being left in the elements for extended periods. "
I'm sure the winch is much smaller then a 5000lb winch on there system.
I'm considering on trying there product to add to my current 40 ton splitter.
Here is a link to to a short video of there lift system.
I'm a heartbeat away of trying this lift system for my current splitter.
With the gorillabac log lift you don't have to add any extra hydraulic's to your splitter build.
It can be easily moved to your truck for loading and to your splitter for dragging and lifting. It looks light and easy to install and can be used for both truck and splitter needs. It drags rounds and lifts them instead of the common splitter lift systems where you have to roll the round to the splitter and up on the lifter before you actually lift the round. At lest it might give you some ideas on your build considerations.
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