Setting rakers on PowerSharp chains

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triathlete123

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I'm curious to know more about this system and would like to try it, for there are many days when I'd rather not be sharpening chains and setting rakers. I'd like to hear from others who have this system whether it sets the rakers while sharpening. Or do the rakers have to be set by hand?
 
Yes the rakers get knocked down as chain gets sharpened. It's a good set up for ppl that don't want to service a saw everytime it gets used, or have a few chains laying around.
 
Lots of info in the many PowerSharp links (some below).

- The current PowerSharp chain only works with 3/8 low profile chain (the old system worked up to .404 chain!);
- You need a 'starter kit' to get started - if you don't like the system, you can still use that bar with any 3/8, low profile, .050 gauge chain;
- The prices have dropped and there are sometimes good deals on eBay;
- You use one chain, with one stone, and replace them together. There is a diamond impregnated link on each loop that dresses the stone.
- The stone sharpens the cutters and adjusts the depth gauges.
- I was skeptical, I tried it, I like it (comments in the threads below). Very convenient. Fairly aggressive chain, compared side-by-side with other chains on the same saw. And I know how to sharpen chains.
- If you are very picky about your exact, custom filing angles, it is probably not for you. If you just want a sharp chain that cuts well, it is worth checking out.
- If you grind it into concrete, like the demo videos, the chain will not last you long, just as conventional chain will not last long if you do that.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-powersharp.125402/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/powersharp.148391/

http://powersharp.com/default_flash.asp

https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/powersharp/main_powersharp.htm

Philbert
 
I've researched this system to my satisfaction. I just wanted confirmation about the rakers and if they are automatically set as the cutters are being sharpened on the stone and that after multiple sharpenings (more than say 10) the rakers and cutters have the correct gap to throw chips as it did when new.

FWIW, I've read others who used this system and complained that the saw does not throw chips after multiple sharpenings. I don't know if these users are correctly following the sharpening procedure or not, by applying enough force on the saw while sharpening, which seems to be an occasional misunderstanding.

Thanks Philbert. Btw, do you find that the rakers and cutters hold their correct gap after many sharpenings?
 
I just wanted confirmation about the rakers and if they are automatically set as the cutters are being sharpened on the stone . . .

Yes. It's part of the design.

. . . after multiple sharpenings . . .
Btw, do you find that the rakers and cutters hold their correct gap after many sharpenings?

It may sound funny, but the term 'sharpenings' can be misleading. Some guys call 1 or 2 passes with a file a 'sharpening', and claim that they get dozens of sharpenings out of a loop of chain. Some guys hit a rock or nail, and complain that they only got 1 or 2 sharpenings out of a chain, after filing or grinding past the damage. With the PowerSharp system being so convenient (I have a few Oregon brand saws with the sharpener built-in), I tend to do more 'touch-up' sharpenings than I might otherwise.

I think that the best way to answer this is to state that my PowerSharp chains cut acceptably well until they were completely worn out: I was still getting big chips. 'Worn out', 'used up', or 'end-of-life' for these chains is defined when the cutters no longer reach the sharpening stone. There may be some remaining cutter visible, but these components are replaced as a system.

I have been happy with the usable life of these chains, EXCEPT, when I have tried the cutting-into-concrete experiment, or when I take saws equipped with PowerSharp chains to GTG's and everyone wants to try grinding them and seeing lots of sparks. Then, they don't last very long. Treat them like you would a conventional chain.

I don't know if these users are correctly following the sharpening procedure or not, by applying enough force on the saw while sharpening, . .

There are some tips on using the PowerSharp system in the referenced threads and Oregon videos.
- Only use one chain and one stone together - they develop a unique wear pattern (not a problem if you only have one saw with PS chain, but can get confusing if you have several. I marked individual cassettes to keep them straight);
- Press firmly against the cassette when sharpening, being careful not to flex the bar (could put more pressure on the cutters on one side than the other);
- 3 to 5 seconds for a light touch-up; 5-7 seconds for a heavier sharpening.
- Judge the effectiveness of sharpening by how the chain cuts - it's appearance, compared to conventional chain, can be deceiving.

For a fair trial, run some PS chain side-by-side with conventional 3/8 low profile chain on the same saw, in the same wood (they both fit the same bar).

Philbert
 
You've thoroughly answered my questions and have laid my concerns to rest. I'm now in the market for a PS 18" starter kit and looking forward to more cutting and less time working on the chains. Thanks Philbert
 
You've thoroughly answered my questions and have laid my concerns to rest. I'm now in the market for a PS 18" starter kit and looking forward to more cutting and less time working on the chains. Thanks Philbert
Based on your comments, I think you will like it. I recently bought a used chain grinder from a guy who 'discovered' the PS chain!

Please post your initial comments, and share your experiences after using it for a while, in one of the PS threads referenced below. That way they will be easy to find by other folks also looking for feedback.

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-powersharp.125402/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/powersharp.148391/
 

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