Splitting Husqvarna crankcases?????.....181se

[jockeydeuce]

Hey guys. Lots of great info on home made tools and how to threads on splitting Stihl crankcases, but I couldn't find anything on splitting Husky cases.

Here's my issue......I just landed this clean old 181se that the guy said was a parts only saw. It needed a recoil and the gas line was rotted off, so I slapped on a spare recoil and it pulled 175 pounds compression!!... Then I replaced the fuel line and the thing fired up and runs awesome!!

Next was when I found it's problem....I filled it with bar oil to check the oil pump and the crankcase is cracked two directions from the bar studs. I don't want to fool around JB welding the whole thing and I like these series of saws and want a gooder!!....Besides I have more crankcase, but not with good cranks that I can just do a simple top end swap......Has anyone split these cases with a smilar tool as the Stihls???......I'm not scared to tackle it and I can make almost any tool I need. I know the correct tool looks kinda like a valve spring compressor, but is it nessecary??

Here's the cracks.....One goes all the way around the front under the muffler and the other right behind the oil pump.:bang:

 

[Kwdog75]

Not sure what the stihl tool looks like but i got a Husqvarna tool for around $100 on Ebay.

 

[andrethegiant70]

I bought a complete 288 with the same problem.. maybe those studs were designed to fit a little too snugly, eh? I just replaced the case.. it was easier than trying to repair it. The case split is not hard if you use the right tool. There are lots of threads on here about fitting bearings and such. It's a fun project!! You'll have a great saw when it's done.

 

[jockeydeuce]

I bought a complete 288 with the same problem.. maybe those studs were designed to fit a little too snugly, eh? I just replaced the case.. it was easier than trying to repair it. The case split is not hard if you use the right tool. There are lots of threads on here about fitting bearings and such. It's a fun project!! You'll have a great saw when it's done.

One of my 288's has the same problem too, but it's just cracked between the studs. It leaks enough to make a mess on the floor, but nothing serious.

I was just taking a look through my parts stash and I do have a 288 crankcase with a decent crank in it. I might just move the 181 stuff onto it.

I'll have to start playing with these crankcases sooner or later though. I've got a few to practice on, so let the education begin..:greenchainsaw:

 

[capeferrelo]

I've combed over the threads on splitting cases, and though I saw a few tools, and Romeo states that for the 2100 you simply pull the halves apart, I have yet to see a concise description. I have a 272 I need to do some welding on, and I need the case apart. So, do I press the crank from one side, against an opposite bearing, do I use a UHMW mallet to hammer them apart, use a solvent that'll weaken the seal...? I've done my share of VW and Porsche engines, and some judicious tapping with a plastic or wood mallet splits them and voila, one half in your hands, the other and the crank on the bench.

I saw photos of a homemade J-red splitter that bolted down to the bar studs, and apparently you use the bolt to drive the crank against the opposite bearing...will this work on Huskys?

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[robertjinnes]

splitting a HUSKI

Since the magnesium/aluminum has so much more thermal expansion than the steel bearings, once you pull the clutch and flywheel and get all the bolts out and loosen the crankcase gasket, apply heat around one of the bearings--I use a high power heat gun. The case expands and a little light tapping on the crank shaft with a plastic hammer or wooden mallet and it's apart. Same activity for second bearing-- pile up some rags etc to catch the crankshaft when it finally comes loose. Now that it is apart, you might decide to leave the bearings because they are tight BUT please don't put it back together with old seals. It's a good or bad way (depending on your way of loooking at it) to destroy P/C when it goes lean from a seal leak.

 

[Kennygee]

Splitting Husky case

I just split my first case ever this past week a 2100 CD,and it was easier than I thought.
After removing fly wheel ,coil. oil pump It was not to much to do. Top end was already off.
I used a 14" piece of Uni-Strut with a 7/16 spring nut. the slots give room to fit over bar studs. and adjust over craknshaft. I assume it will work on Yours and You can find this stuff at most all hard ware and plumbing,and electrical supply shops.
Remove all case bolts , heat bearing case with heat ,preferably with an electric heat gun and slowly apply pressure on crank,
I had a beer bottle cap between them to protect threads. Came apart really easy, just be sure You keep an eye on where it is going to fall.
Repeat on mag side use, bearing splitter to remove old bearings , really easy also.
To install new ones I just heated bearings. crank in freezer couple hours,just about fell on.
After cool down ,couple hours ass. case . with gasket and sealant heated crankcase then direct heat with heat gun and pulled together with case bolts.
then it is just a case of re assembly . Did a vacuum test before installing carb and muffler.
Hope this helps

 

[Jacob J.]

It was common for the 181 and some 281/288 saws to crack through the bar studs. It's caused by ham-handed operators getting the bar pinched in the wood and then jerking hard trying to get it unstuck. Some of the 044s did the same thing.

 

[Kennygee]

Case cracks

I found about the same thing when I removed the gas/oil tank to paint it on my 2100.
You could bearley see them from the bar side but were much more evident when tank was removed.
I don't know if it would have broken, but I sure didn't want to find out with 30" of chain flying around!!
Jacob, was I close to being right on splitting case?

 

[Jacob J.]

Jacob, was I close to being right on splitting case?

I would assume so since you got your case apart without damaging anything...

There's a few different ways to split a case. I guess I can do a quick tutorial on how I do it.

 

[Kennygee]

case splitting

It sure won't hurt my feelings,and I guess the OP won't mind, but since I can't speak for him I'll let You be the judge of that.

 

[Jacob J.]

Here's my routine. I bought this generic case splitting tool (I think it was from Brown & Wiser) in '89 for $24. It secures to a single bar stud.

 

[Jacob J.]

It's taken a lot of abuse and has split hundreds of cases.

The next tool is a servicing tool originally from the Jonsereds special tools catalog.

 

[Jacob J.]

Over the years I've had to straighten and brace the legs on it.

My set-up allows me to have a case split in under 15 minutes. I do all modern saw cases the same way. The advantage to Husky cases is that there's no dowels to drive out. The disadvantage to newer Husky cases is that the black paper case gasket comes apart and has to be scraped off. The Stihl gasket almost always peels off in one piece and leaves the halves clean.

 

[Winn R]

Thanks Jacob J! This makes it so much easier to see what has to happen.

Now -- All God's chillen need tools!

 

[rmh3481]

Nice set up JJ. Thanks for the pics.

Here is a short video of the Husky tool at work;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G-vapNwntw

Bob

 

[Brandon Bondeson]

Over the years I've had to straighten and brace the legs on it.

My set-up allows me to have a case split in under 15 minutes. I do all modern saw cases the same way. The advantage to Husky cases is that there's no dowels to drive out. The disadvantage to newer Husky cases is that the black paper case gasket comes apart and has to be scraped off. The Stihl gasket almost always peels off in one piece and leaves the halves clean.

could i get mesurements of that j-red splitter i would like to try and make one