vermeer 352 trouble

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Jimma

ArboristSite Operative
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rockland, ma.
I hit a rock today with my vermeer 352. Broke off a couple of boots for the teeth. Replaced them and went to restart and couldn't get the wheel to operate properly. Somthing in the lower gear bopx or driveshaft went. It rattles around in there when you turn the cutter by hand. I heard there was some type of pin, maybe a shear pin in the driveshaft on these models that go frequently. Before I start tearing everything down, anyone got an idea what may have let loose and easiest way to access it? Im thinking Ive got to drop the cutter wheel and disconnect the lower gear box, but Id rather not.
 
Maybe a u joint on the driveshaft or a bearing or a broken key on the upper gear box. Heard a discussion some time ago about some type of pin in the drive mechanism that frequently fails. But I didn't have a 352 at the time and din't pay much attention.
 
Maybe a u joint on the driveshaft or a bearing or a broken key on the upper gear box. Heard a discussion some time ago about some type of pin in the drive mechanism that frequently fails. But I didn't have a 352 at the time and din't pay much attention.
It sounds like you have broken the tension pin that holds the driveshaft to the top gearbox. If you turn the cutter wheel and get a banging noise coming from the square tube between the gearboxes, you have found your problem and a strip down is needed. We found the top universal joint where it slips over the gearbox shaft had worn loose and it caused the pin to fatigue until it broke. I took the drive shaft to a tractor repair shop and asked them to replace the top yoke with a clamp type yoke. This has a bolt passing through it opposite the key and clamps the yoke tightly to the shaft.
The only modification we had to make was to grind a small detent into the gearbox shaft for the bolt to pass through. [shaft too hard to file or machine] This also means the bolt stops the drive shaft moving down and falling off again. 800 hrs on repair so we must have done something right.
Make sure you replace universal crosses while it is apart. Never cheaper than when the mechanic is changing the yoke.
 
Thanks Kiwidiesel, that's pretty much what I thought it might be but needed to here it from someone else before I go tearing it apart.
 
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