Mods To My Mill For Nose Oiler

Well I purchased a 50" bar for my mill and wanted a good way to oil the nose of the bar. A little history about my mill. The power-head is not a production chainsaw, it is a industrial 2-stroke 134cc motor that I have adapted to use as a mill power-head.

I purchased a 50" bar that is for a 088-090 Stihl to use .404x.063 milling chain. I had to machine bushings to use on the 3/8" studs that are on the mill frame to bush them up to the width of the Stihl bar slot size. I then only needed to drill new holes in the bar for where my oil pump supply's oil to the top of the bar and one hole on each side at the nose of the bar for my oil supply feed line. Here are some pictures explaining how I made this revised nose oil system.

Here is a picture of the mill with the 50" bar mounted on my mill. I'm planning to make additional handles out on the end for ease of carrying the mill safely with a second person. Have to go uses a friends big bandsaw to cut some aluminum for mounting brackets.



What I decided to do for oiling this bar was to machine a piece of metal that uses a 1/2"OD O-ring that would seal over the oil hole I machined in the end of the bar when I bolt the bar to the frame of the mill. I made the piece I turned on my lathe longer than I needed so it could be cut to fit later. In this picture you can see how the O-ring fits in the piece and has a 1/4" diameter hole for allowing the oil to flow easily. The depth of the cut for the O-ring is 1/16" deep or 2/3 of the thickness of the O-ring which is 3/32".



Here is the piece I machined ready to be attached to the mill frame.



Here is the piece I machined for screwing in a 1/8" pipe fitting for 1/4" hose. I then silver brazed the two pieces together. Sorry pictures aren't clearer, I used my cell phone for a few shots.



Here is what the piece looks like from the bottom welded to the mill frame that attaches the bar to the frame. The O-ring seals to the bar easily.



Next pictures will show nose oilier mounted to mill.

jerry-

Mods To My Mill For Nose Oiler Post 2

Here is the pictures of the nose oiler piece I machined mounted to mill frame. I have the safety screen off so new nose oiler is easy to see.



In this picture you can just see that I can still get at the grease hole in the nose of the bar.



After I had the bar mounted I measured what my maximum width I can mill and I'm at
45" max. Only thing I have left to do is make up a couple of chains from the spool of milling chain I purchased.

My plan is to mill a maple tree I have been saving to try this bar on and the latest Mini-Mill I built for my friend for making a nice cant for milling boards without an edge.

Here is a picture of the mini-mill.




jerry-

That's an interesting approach jerry.

I used to have the oil coming thru holes in the bar to get at the chain but now I just let it drip it direct onto the line where the bar kisses the chain. This wastes a bit more oil than the other method but seems to be just as effective and enough oil seems to get into the nose sprocket bearing so I never have to grease it. One thing I do like about the drip method is I can really see if the oil is coming out as it pools on the bar and I can then adjust the aux oil tank valve. For wider cuts this is the size of the pool I like to see.



One problem with using your method on (the relatively few) mills where the powerhead connects to the mill (as opposed to the bar) is that the bar moves in and out at the nose clamp when the chain is adjusted so the holes would not align. I guess that could be solved by making the o-ring holder position adjustable

BobL said:

That's an interesting approach jerry.

I used to have the oil coming thru holes in the bar to get at the chain but now I just let it drip it direct onto the line where the bar kisses the chain. This wastes a bit more oil than the other method but seems to be just as effective and enough oil seems to get into the nose sprocket bearing so I never have to grease it. One thing I do like about the drip method is I can really see if the oil is coming out as it pools on the bar and I can then adjust the aux oil tank valve. For wider cuts this is the size of the pool I like to see.

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I tried using the drip method and just didn't like dripping oil, I know it works, but just prefer having the chain links carrying the oil on the top and bottom of the chain. Even on my shorter bar it distributes the oil very well. I made this oiler so when it comes time to change a chain it would be easy. I hope to mill with it soon, so I'll let you know how it works.

One problem with using your method on (the relatively few) mills where the powerhead connects to the mill (as opposed to the bar) is that the bar moves in and out at the nose clamp when the chain is adjusted so the holes would not align. I guess that could be solved by making the o-ring holder position adjustable

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One could make the piece adjustable for an Alaskan or any home brew mill that clamps the bar. I'm trying to show another option for millers to use or try on their mills besides dripping. Gandberg has you drill a hole completely through the bar and insert a brass fitting that is tightened onto the bar. I guess that's OK providing it doesn't come loose. If I remember, didn't you use something similar on your BL mill a couple of years ago? Did you take it off and just go with the drip method?

jerry-

820wards said:

If I remember, didn't you use something similar on your BL mill a couple of years ago? Did you take it off and just go with the drip method?

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Yep I got tired of swapping the hollow bolt over to the other side when I flipped the bar.

Even though I call it a "drip method", the gap between the tip of the oil delivery mechanism (in my case it's a brass tube made from a 1/4" piece of brass rod) and the bar/chain is only about 1/16" so the oil "wicks out" rather than drops out onto the bar.