There is no such thing as a donor Mac - get em both running!
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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I am a proponent of the Viton fuel tank gaskets. I have had several problems with new (NOS) cork gaskets leaking and zero issues with the Viton gaskets on any saw with a full channel for the gasket to sit in.
The flywheel side bearing is supposed to keep the crankshaft from moving laterally in the saw, there should be a retaining ring on the bearing that fits a groove in the crankcase halves. If the bearing fits the crankshaft properly it cannot move in the crankcase.
The spacer washer between the oil tank and the gasket (69772) is normally a fiber washer, I have them in good supply.
Mark
The flywheel side bearing is supposed to keep the crankshaft from moving laterally in the saw, there should be a retaining ring on the bearing that fits a groove in the crankcase halves. If the bearing fits the crankshaft properly it cannot move in the crankcase.
The spacer washer between the oil tank and the gasket (69772) is normally a fiber washer, I have them in good supply.
Mark
I picked up a 595 recently. I believe this is the European equivalent of the 550 Super? It appears to have a “Super” piston and rings. I measured the bore as best as possible and it appears to be 56.6mm. The saw also came with a parts diagram. It has the piston part number listed as 62883 with rings 62422. The saw has some good bones with the exception of a broken lower handlebar mount. It definitely bothers me I think I will have to swap it out. Parts diagram has the fuel tank listed as 62154A. Would this be a common part?
I'm pretty sure that tank was also used on the US version of the Super 250, 550, and later production 450 saws. The 380A and early 450 saws also had a pulse operated automatic oil pump built into the fuel tank but it was a different design.
62883 is a thick ring piston and is also called out for the 790/795 890/895 models saws (2.211/2.210"), I have a few NOS piston assemblies (piston, rings, bearings). My inventory says I also have a few 62154 tanks if you are interested in either. As you know, shipping to Canada is more expensive.
Mark
62883 is a thick ring piston and is also called out for the 790/795 890/895 models saws (2.211/2.210"), I have a few NOS piston assemblies (piston, rings, bearings). My inventory says I also have a few 62154 tanks if you are interested in either. As you know, shipping to Canada is more expensive.
Mark
Excuse me while I wipe the drool off my chin!!!!! Good for you!!!
BillConn
New Member
Hello fellow McCulloch enthusiasts. I just wanted to introduce myself and the project I am currently working on. My name is Bill and I am located in the beautiful PNW. My current project is trying to fix up my Father-in-Laws McCulloch Super 10-10.
The backstory on the saw and how it became MY project to fix: This saw belonged to his dad who worked as an engineer in the timber industry in the Salem, OR area. Several years ago my FIL took the saw to a local chainsaw shop to get it back in working order (it had been shelved for 10+yrs and he couldn't get it to run). Saw shop said the cylinder was badly scored and would need a whole new piston and cylinder. He paid 'em up front $400 for the work and parts but then COVID happened along with repeated delays and excuses from the shop. Long story short, he never got his saw back or his money and just sorta gave up on it. This year I decided I wanted to get the saw back from this shop and fix it myself as a Christmas gift for him. I was able to get the saw back two weeks ago (but not the money.... of course). Bad news - it doesn't appear like any work had been done at all, Good news - I don't believe the piston and cylinder are trashed.
Anyway - here is the saw when I got it back into my possession :
Here is a cool sticker on the flywheel side. Haven't seen one of these before:
And here is how the saw sits right now:
The backstory on the saw and how it became MY project to fix: This saw belonged to his dad who worked as an engineer in the timber industry in the Salem, OR area. Several years ago my FIL took the saw to a local chainsaw shop to get it back in working order (it had been shelved for 10+yrs and he couldn't get it to run). Saw shop said the cylinder was badly scored and would need a whole new piston and cylinder. He paid 'em up front $400 for the work and parts but then COVID happened along with repeated delays and excuses from the shop. Long story short, he never got his saw back or his money and just sorta gave up on it. This year I decided I wanted to get the saw back from this shop and fix it myself as a Christmas gift for him. I was able to get the saw back two weeks ago (but not the money.... of course). Bad news - it doesn't appear like any work had been done at all, Good news - I don't believe the piston and cylinder are trashed.
Anyway - here is the saw when I got it back into my possession :
Here is a cool sticker on the flywheel side. Haven't seen one of these before:
And here is how the saw sits right now:
The 595 seems to be a pretty strong runner. Don’t have a proper full wrap , original clutch cover wasn’t in the greatest shape so I put this black one on and swapped muffler out. Looks fine to me though and will have to do for now. Possibly I’ll come across the proper parts some day. Fuel system overhauled and new crank seals. Sounds fantastic. Pretty happy so far. Not gonna win any beauty pageants but I like it!
Welcome, good news is, thats in great shape. More good news its a 54cc saw and there are many many good blocks out there from nearly any 54cc 10 series. Not that uou need it though.
Welcome aboard and good luck with the project!!
Looks and sounds a lot like my 450!
I see right-hand start on new member BillConn's super 10-10. I am interested in the chronology of the right-hand start on the 10 series saws. Were they all right-hand start in the 60s? Or was it an option maybe could buy it either way? Does anybody know what was the last year you could get a right-hand start on one of the 10 series saws?
The 1-10 through 6-10 models up through 1972 were all right hand start.
The early 10-10 models up through 1972 were also RH start. The '73 IPL's are showing LH start.
The 7-10 model released in 1970 had a left hand starter.
There were probably other models with both/either RH or LH start between 1970 and 1972 depending on what parts McCulloch had on hand at the time a saw was assembled.
Mark
The early 10-10 models up through 1972 were also RH start. The '73 IPL's are showing LH start.
The 7-10 model released in 1970 had a left hand starter.
There were probably other models with both/either RH or LH start between 1970 and 1972 depending on what parts McCulloch had on hand at the time a saw was assembled.
Mark
Picked up a nice McCulloch 200 yesterday. Good spark and compression, piston and cylinder look good, bar and chain in good shape. Going to go through the carb and check fuel lines and filter. Hopefully I can get it to fire up! 
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BillConn
New Member
Well…. Hit a few snags today in the 10-10 rebuild. So I won’t be handing it over to my father-in-law on Christmas like I had hoped.
(1) Snapped a ring during the re-install into the piston today. I assume I can just slap new rings on it and go (once gapped appropriately).
Anybody got a good source for replacements? They measure 0.048” thick. I see some people mention thin or thick ring MACs. Not sure what is thick vs thin.
(2) was rebuilding the Walbro SDC 16 carb and discovered the high speed (upper) needle is bent. I tried to straighten it and made only minor improvement. Not entirely sure what impact the bent needle would have on the running saw. I’ve never seen this saw run in the first place. I can’t seem to find a matching replacement needle online. Anyone have one they could spare?
(1) Snapped a ring during the re-install into the piston today. I assume I can just slap new rings on it and go (once gapped appropriately).
Anybody got a good source for replacements? They measure 0.048” thick. I see some people mention thin or thick ring MACs. Not sure what is thick vs thin.
(2) was rebuilding the Walbro SDC 16 carb and discovered the high speed (upper) needle is bent. I tried to straighten it and made only minor improvement. Not entirely sure what impact the bent needle would have on the running saw. I’ve never seen this saw run in the first place. I can’t seem to find a matching replacement needle online. Anyone have one they could spare?
Thats a bummer. Make it a late chritmas gift. Im sure someone will be along shortly with rings. Id replace the needle if it wont tune properly. It wont hurt to try it first.
The 54cc models like the 10-10 only used thick rings, 62814. They are still available on eBay but as they say, supplies are limited...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2957430031...zD0Y0ULeUKm2k/v3WgpGHQIg==|tkp:Bk9SR-ah_77-ZA
As far as I know all of the 54cc models had round exhaust ports and no locating pins for the ring end gaps, but you still should check the ring end gap; 0.006 to 0.017" according to the workshop manual. Be careful installing the rings onto the piston and working them into the bore.
As Vinny noted you will have a hard time adjusting that carburetor with the bent needle, and you run the risk of damaging the seat in the carburetor turning that one in and out. You shouldn't have any trouble finding a donor SDC carburetor to acquire a replacement needle.
Mark
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2957430031...zD0Y0ULeUKm2k/v3WgpGHQIg==|tkp:Bk9SR-ah_77-ZA
As far as I know all of the 54cc models had round exhaust ports and no locating pins for the ring end gaps, but you still should check the ring end gap; 0.006 to 0.017" according to the workshop manual. Be careful installing the rings onto the piston and working them into the bore.
As Vinny noted you will have a hard time adjusting that carburetor with the bent needle, and you run the risk of damaging the seat in the carburetor turning that one in and out. You shouldn't have any trouble finding a donor SDC carburetor to acquire a replacement needle.
Mark
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