Old Stihl starter mechanisms

belgian · Aug 1, 2007

Of almost all my Stihl collector saws, the start mechanism has tendency to "slip" during the starting procedure, due to the mechanical driver not engaging correctly.

I have posted a pic of the mechanism that has to drive the hollow ring connected to the flywheel (washer and spring removed). The two plates connected to the rod slides externally once you pull the rope, and engage at the inner side of the pulley.

The rod movement, I suppose, is driven through friction, controlled by two seals and a spring.

On most of the older saws, the mechanism doesn't function well (the two fingers don't slide outwards). How can one remedy this problem ? Any help is appreciated.

thomas72 · Aug 1, 2007

For me the key is the two Teflon washers on both sides of the starter dogs, as they wear out they will get groves in them and that can cause problems like that; I just sand the washers flat again or flip them over and it works again. Also the cup they engage with needs to be in good condition as well, as I have found on a Stihl it must have all of the ridges intact and not rounded off. I have also learned not to use oil to lube the assembly, but to use Teflon spray. Other than those problems the start dogs may have gotten rounded at the end and need to be filed back square.

Grande Dog · Aug 1, 2007

Howdy,
From your picture you should have had to remove 2 washers (1 large and 1 small), 1 spring, and 1 E-clip to get where you are now. If not you have a piece missing. You can add small washers to increase the pressure on the starter dogs, or rough up the surfaces on the dogs to increase friction. If you're shade treeing it in the woods, a tiny amount of pitch will turn the trick.
With the Fairbanks Morse starter like you have, it is important to have the dogs engaged before you really yard on the starter rope or you'll be replacing the fanwheel (the part of the flywheel that the dogs engage) before long. They made a later improvement where a plastic ring is inserted into the fanwheel. If you ever need any parts for your saw in the future, we'll have aftermarket parts in a couple months from now.
Gregg

Lakeside53 · Aug 1, 2007

The prior two posts have it nailed.

You can still buy the parts quite reasonably priced for most starters from Stihl.

Dan Forsh · Aug 1, 2007

Heres an extract from my Contra manual which covers this type of starter assembly.

belgian · Aug 2, 2007

thomas72 said:
For me the key is the two Teflon washers on both sides of the starter dogs, as they wear out they will get groves in them and that can cause problems like that; I just sand the washers flat again or flip them over and it works again. Also the cup they engage with needs to be in good condition as well, as I have found on a Stihl it must have all of the ridges intact and not rounded off. I have also learned not to use oil to lube the assembly, but to use Teflon spray. Other than those problems the start dogs may have gotten rounded at the end and need to be filed back square.

Thanks Thomas. I have made quite the same experience as you did. No oil !
As you indicated, most of the washers are in poor condition on a failing mechanism, and the cup teeth are mostly gone due to the excessive pulling.
Looks like I have still some work ahead.

Bill G · Aug 2, 2007

I have a lifetime supply of the recoil shoes so I just replace them

Bill

belgian · Aug 2, 2007

howdy

Grande Dog said:
Howdy,
From your picture you should have had to remove 2 washers (1 large and 1 small), 1 spring, and 1 E-clip to get where you are now. If not you have a piece missing.

Click to expand...

Hi Gregg.

Thanks for your help.
I have seen differences in various models. Your description is correct, but sometimes the small washers are not there (see Dan's pic of the contra). That was the case on my 070 also.

You can add small washers to increase the pressure on the starter dogs, or rough up the surfaces on the dogs to increase friction

Click to expand...

.

That's very helpful and I will try it.

With the Fairbanks Morse starter like you have, it is important to have the dogs engaged before you really yard on the starter rope or you'll be replacing the fanwheel (the part of the flywheel that the dogs engage) before long. They made a later improvement where a plastic ring is inserted into the fanwheel. If you ever need any parts for your saw in the future, we'll have aftermarket parts in a couple months from now.

Click to expand...

Do you guys also ship outside the US ?

belgian · Aug 2, 2007

Dan Forsh said:
Heres an extract from my Contra manual which covers this type of starter assembly.

Click to expand...

This is a great site !

mbopp · Aug 2, 2007

Dad's old Homelite Zip also used the Fairbanks-Morse starter. I got new shoes from a Stihl dealer years ago. Maybe for an 056?
I've also seen parts for those starters listed in snowmobile parts magazines.

Scooterbum · Aug 2, 2007

Faibanks Morse

I have an old David Bradley with the Fairbanks Morse starter.Would anyone have the cup for this?It's smooth inside now and worthless.The rest of the starter is fine Thanks Steve

Grande Dog · Aug 2, 2007

Yeah, thats interesting that they don't show them in that picture. Normally you need at least the outside one or the spring devours the friction disc. We do ship anywhere in the world. Some products are restricted to US shipment only.

Old Stihl starter mechanisms

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