Second opinion on tree

Hi guys and thanks for any responses given. We purchased the house just over 1 yr ago and both me and my wife decided to put some money (Not a huge amount) into our front yard to make it more pleasing to our eyes. So recently we went to a garden/landscape designer and his advice was that the tree, due to it's location (too near the house) and the way it has grown trunk being split (3 ways) he recommended removing it before it gets too big and really expensive to remove. He did say if you get any heavy snow or high winds it will snap and then you will be forced to remove it. It's a nice looking oak in the spring and would be a shame to lose it. I would love your opinions as to whether you side with the designer or is jumping the gun. We reside in far North Texas, Dallas to be more precise.
Thanks Paul.




2 bald cyprus trees very close to each other (7' apart) and starting to look a bit deformed. Should we remove one of them or both? Please note that the nandinas/bushes will be removed regarless.





Last but not least a live oak that is 15/20 feet away from the house. Again we have been told to remove it because of the way it has formed. What do you guys think? Is he right in saying remove now before it becomes a bigger issue.

Call a local certified arborist for an expert second opinion. Tell him in advance just what you are looking for. He may give you a free estimate/advise. Hard to tell from the photo, but you may be able to remove the outer 2 trees and save the center lead.

is the arketect or landscaper going to charg you for the tree removal or mayby his buddy that owns a tree service.i agree get reputable tree service to take a look,most estimates are free if they are in your area.

the triple forked oak is real close to side walk,may cause problems later with root dammage.asfar as live oak is it 20ft from hose to trunk or to dripline of tree?if to dripline leave it alone in my oppinion.

kajudude said:

the triple forked oak is real close to side walk,may cause problems later with root dammage.asfar as live oak is it 20ft from hose to trunk or to dripline of tree?if to dripline leave it alone in my oppinion.

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Thx for reply. It is about 20' from the house to the trunk.

dukntz said:

Call a local certified arborist for an expert second opinion. Tell him in advance just what you are looking for. He may give you a free estimate/advise. Hard to tell from the photo, but you may be able to remove the outer 2 trees and save the center lead.

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Thx for reply. The photo does not show as is. The centre one is positioned/angled like the other 2, so there's not a centre one.

hvacagent said:

Hi guys and thanks for any responses given. We purchased the house just over 1 yr ago and both me and my wife decided to put some money (Not a huge amount) into our front yard to make it more pleasing to our eyes. So recently we went to a garden/landscape designer and his advice was that the tree, due to it's location (too near the house) and the way it has grown trunk being split (3 ways) he recommended removing it before it gets too big and really expensive to remove. He did say if you get any heavy snow or high winds it will snap and then you will be forced to remove it. It's a nice looking oak in the spring and would be a shame to lose it. I would love your opinions as to whether you side with the designer or is jumping the gun. We reside in far North Texas, Dallas to be more precise.
Thanks Paul.

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They are correct that the 3 multi-dominant stems are a fault, but I don't see that removal is necessary at all. The 3 leads can be cabled together and managed over a very long time.

Thinning to one lead at this point would create wounds that will allow the remaining base to begin decaying, and create more issues in the future.

You could also have the tree treated to slow it's above ground growth, and emphasize root growth. That would allow more time before it's size was a real issue.

2 bald cyprus trees very close to each other (7' apart) and starting to look a bit deformed. Should we remove one of them or both? Please note that the nandinas/bushes will be removed regarless.

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The "deformation" is a normal response to the 2 trees competing for light. Removal of one would allow the other to begin filling in a more perfect crown shape, but whether it'll ever even out and catch up to the grown side is doubtful. I think they're fine as they are.

Also, they've been sharing wind forever, making one tree absorb all the wind energy by itself could promote uprooting, if it gets a heavy blow before it's had time to get used to the new wind loading.

Last but not least a live oak that is 15/20 feet away from the house. Again we have been told to remove it because of the way it has formed. What do you guys think? Is he right in saying remove now before it becomes a bigger issue.

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We can't really see the structure of the branch attachments from the pic. And we need to see that to be able to offer advice that's of any value. Also, a pic of the tree as it relates to the house would be helpful.

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Overall, I see a landscaper who's going for a big job and lots of upsell at your expense. Good on you for getting more opinions before you start the decision making.

The triple leader could be a problem like someone else said with side walk in the future. If you like the tree though it can be made safer with a little dynamic cabling.

The live oak looks really good to me, I would make it the focal point of the property. It sounds like it is far enough away from the house. It can always be pruned for clearance over the house.

The two cypress might get shaded out by the live oak eventually and mis shape the canopy. I would leave them until they become a problem with the live oak. Once they start really competing with the oak then I would remove them. You want to save that oak at all costs.

That is my interpretation from the pics, I agree that you should have a certified arborist come take a look at them though.

Welcome to the site, and I am glad you are soliciting opinions prior to jumping to the suggestions made by this landscaper. I am very disturbed that his primary suggestions are "get rid of the mature trees". With the qualifier that an onsite and qualified arborist may see something that we cannot see from these pictures, I offer the following:

I am with the general opinions that the triple trunk oak can be managed for a very, very long time. If removal becomes an issue in the future, deal with it then. At that point you will have probably enjoyed this tree for decades. And if a storm comes through, well then, again deal with the situation then. You can't live life dependent on the worst that can happen.

I would be inclined to leave the bald cypress as a pair and let them create a single canopy. As ddh pointed out, at this point they are providing support for each other.

The live oak is a no-brainer IMHO...leave it. A tree island can be created around it and the bald cypress together.

As you are progressing with your landscape design, request to know not only what they are planning to do, but how they are planning on accomplishing it. These trees should have protection zones delineated around them so their root zones will be impacted as little as possible. This may require more delicate procedures rather than bobcat or mechanical means.

I would hope that the landscaper is planning on tree islands. If he is suggesting plants under the trees, request a specific species list so you can be assured he has selected suitable companions for the tree species. A big (and easy) mistake to make is to place species with different requirements too close together.

Mature trees are huge assets. They are the only items in landscapes that are not immediately replaceable.

Sylvia

NCTREE said:

If you like the tree though it can be made safer with a little dynamic cabling.

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I don't want to transfer another thread's argument into this one, and we can't tell enough from the pic to determine the degree of included bark, but....

The only option those three leads have as they grow in size is to exert outward pressure on the other two leads. It's a significant fault, and should be addressed with static cabling IMHO. (steel cable) Start the reaction wood forming now as a whole, instead of as three individuals.

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Great post Sylvia, especially the tree islands and companion planting info. Your rep does not reflect the volumes of great info you post...I tried, but outa bullets.

ddhlakebound said:

I don't want to transfer another thread's argument into this one, and we can't tell enough from the pic to determine the degree of included bark, but....

The only option those three leads have as they grow in size is to exert outward pressure on the other two leads. It's a significant fault, and should be addressed with static cabling IMHO. (steel cable) Start the reaction wood forming now as a whole, instead of as three individuals.

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Great post Sylvia, especially the tree islands and companion planting info. Your rep does not reflect the volumes of great info you post...I tried, but outa bullets.

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I disagree, those trunks are in a triangular pattern not a straight line where the center lead is pushing out on the other two trunks. If there is included bark then steal cabling is not going do anymore than dynamic cabling will do.

Trees build up tension wood from forces exerted on them from an outside source just as a gymnast builds muscle strength from lifting weights. Steal cabling restricts tension wood dynamic cabling encourages it. Trees in a forest work in uniform with each other moving from side to side as they bounce off other trees. The same concept happens with the branches of individual trees. Trees should just simply me allowed to move with the forces exert on them.

One last thing as the trunk calipers increase in diameter outwards so does the strength. As long as there is no defects in the trunks like rot or girdling roots then they should do fine.

ddhlakebound said:

I don't want to transfer another thread's argument into this one, and we can't tell enough from the pic to determine the degree of included bark, but....

The only option those three leads have as they grow in size is to exert outward pressure on the other two leads. It's a significant fault, and should be addressed with static cabling IMHO. (steel cable) Start the reaction wood forming now as a whole, instead of as three individuals.

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Great post Sylvia, especially the tree islands and companion planting info. Your rep does not reflect the volumes of great info you post...I tried, but outa bullets.

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I gave him and you a nova lol

ropensaddle said:

I gave him and you a nova lol

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Thanks rope, appreciate it!

Sylvia (S Mc) is Mrs. D Mc, so she may give you an internet wedgie for callin her a him....:hmm3grin2orange:

I didn't want this thread to become an argument about cabling trees, so I added it to a pertinent thread, so we can argue about it there.

A close-up pic of the base of the triple-oak would help with the Rx.

ddhlakebound said:

Thanks rope, appreciate it!

Sylvia (S Mc) is Mrs. D Mc, so she may give you an internet wedgie for callin her a him....:hmm3grin2orange:

I didn't want this thread to become an argument about cabling trees, so I added it to a pertinent thread, so we can argue about it there.

A close-up pic of the base of the triple-oak would help with the Rx.

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Oooooooooooooooops, lmfao sorry sylvia, no wedgie needed and please remember, I gave you a nova

IMO I dont see any of those trees as being a threat . Mabe a good trimming and thin the oak out a bit in the middle. Im sure that land scaper would sell you some new trees once you pay to remove those! Also the landscaper by removing larger trees would make a dramatic diffrence to your front yard right where his business sign will be cause all your neigbors will be lookin.

riesenbr549 said:

IMO I dont see any of those trees as being a threat . Mabe a good trimming and thin the oak out a bit in the middle. Im sure that land scaper would sell you some new trees once you pay to remove those! Also the landscaper by removing larger trees would make a dramatic diffrence to your front yard right where his business sign will be cause all your neigbors will be lookin.

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Yup agree with all and above with just care & keep em.
I was impressed in the quality and tidiness of your neighborhood in the pictures. Wow what a house n garden proud local crew you got. Every tree was tidy every lawn was trimmed and square. You got your weekends covered git off the couch on the mower n rake eh.

sounds like a landscaper with a buddy in the tree business.

ddh and Rope...Thank you both, for your kind words and nova. No wedgie threats to worry about, Rope.

Hvac - it would be interesting to see close up photos of the base of the tri-trunk. Also perhaps a photo showing relative positions of the trees to your house.

You live in a beautiful neighborhood and I can definitely picture an enhancement of the landscape.

Sylvia

I Would pm mckee tree tree he lives in your area or Dallas I have likely been in your area long ago when I lived there. I feel the tri-dominant stem could be mitigated if that is your desire. The bald Cyprus too and the live oak why would anyone want it gone that is going to hurt the property value imo. I would have a nice replacement planted near the area of the tri-stemed tree and once it has established consider it's removal. The other trees just need maintenance pruning and mulch islands to protect them from competition with turf and the crews that mow,as well as; Texas heat. Make sure the mulched area is not too deep and does not reach the bark I usually start it 10" away from the base and mulch to dripline. The bald Cyprus will have knees protruding up through the ground so the shrubs may be there to prevent drying out and to hide and protect the knees.

Great advice--"Cut em all; they're defective! Oh, did I mention that we're having a sale on our potbound crap called nursery trees?"