Looking for a Sawmill Shed Design

Ted J · Jun 29, 2009

I'm looking for some ideas on a shed cover for the Woodmizer. I want a ten foot cantilevered roof section, so I'll be able to expand with extra bed sections. I figure 24 foot is probably the longest shed I'll need, and use the post section of the shed for stacking and stickering. With the cantilevered roof section I won't have post to run into and avoiding any unnessesary accidents.

So if ya got any pics post'em up and help me out... :clap:

Thanks,
Ted

billstuewe · Jun 30, 2009

Probably not what you are looking for but this works for me. It is 35x35 and the saw sits just under the roofline. I stack the logs to be cut on the ramp outside and just roll them on the mill as needed.

Mike Van · Jun 30, 2009

Ted, a 10 ft cantilever is quite an overhang, yet wind blown rain will still come right under it. Up here, the first wet snow would have it on the ground. Why not go 12 or 14 ft and have a few posts? One thing I can tell you is you never have enough room. If I had a jet hangar I'd still bit*h about not enough room.

OhioGregg · Jun 30, 2009

Bill, Thats about like the way i have mine set up. Works well for me also, can get to it from the outside to load logs on with a 3pt. boom pole on the tractor. Yet, I'm mostly under roof. A larger more open one like you have is more suited for a larger mill, like Ted is looking to cover.

Gregg,

[http://

Ted J · Jun 30, 2009

Mike Van said:
Ted, a 10 ft cantilever is quite an overhang, yet wind blown rain will still come right under it. Up here, the first wet snow would have it on the ground. Why not go 12 or 14 ft and have a few posts? One thing I can tell you is you never have enough room. If I had a jet hangar I'd still bit*h about not enough room.

Ain't that the truth... :laugh:

Snow..... that sounds refreshing right about now.

The neighbor a couple doors down gave me two C10's that are 24 foot long, I guess I could fab up a 24' x 16' four post cover and put the mill in the middle.

Ted

Ted J · Jun 30, 2009

billstuewe said:
Probably not what you are looking for but this works for me. It is 35x35 and the saw sits just under the roofline. I stack the logs to be cut on the ramp outside and just roll them on the mill as needed.

That doesn't look bad though, I'de take it if it was cheap enough.

I like the idea of a log table up to the mill.

Ted J · Jul 20, 2009

Well, I started on setting post for the cover for the woodmizer.

The size will be 24x16. Right now the top of the header up on the post is at 9 foot plus.

Right now I'm debating on which way to pitch the roof. The concrete pad has a slope of about 3 inches (towards the post), It was an old dog kennel pad, the reason for the sloped pad...

But, this is the progress so far since starting on Friday.

Later,
Ted

HarryHarley · Jul 20, 2009

Great pics. Keep them coming. Like to see how "ideas" actually turn out.
Good work so far.

Ted J · Aug 9, 2009

Not too much progress has been made since the last post due to worknig some OT at the real job and other things that are of higher priority. :bang:
The outside temps don't seem to help either.

Ran into a snag, and I could use some advice or suggestions. The 24 foot channel that I went to get, as it turns out is only 20 foot long. :buttkick:

So, I need to make a 24 foot beam, as that is the span that I need fill.

I have on hand, 2x12x16 footers, I was thinking of making a laminated beam from three of those 2x12's. I was going to cut one 2x12 in half, staggering the sections, like so:
8 foot / 16 foot
16 foot / 8 foot
Using screws every 6 inches apart. alternating sides, for four rows using Strong-Drive® Screws (SDS).

Any suggestions, words of wisdom, or on hand experience? :blob2:

Thanks in advance.
Ted

Old Hilly · Aug 10, 2009

Well, I think I would use some sort of bloody strong waterproof adhesive between those boards, that way you would end up with a sort of laminated beam that would be even stronger. You could also consider making a thing that we call a "Barlow truss" down here in OZ. Basically it forms an upside-down truss using steel rod and some steel pipe. This old brain isn't working too well at the moment so rather than totally confuse you while I try to describe it, please look it up on Gooogle or one of those searchengine confusing things. This truss will lower the amount of clearance you have under that beam but it will add greatly to the load the beam will carry. It is not a hard thing to make and almost anyone with a welder and a decent power drill will fiddle one together fairly quickly.
Dennis

stipes · Aug 10, 2009

Backwoods would be the man to ask.....

Seen his work on here and he be the one to ask....

HarryHarley · Aug 10, 2009

Find a 24 footer and you won't have to worry about all this!!
Easy for me to say, though.

Ted J · Aug 10, 2009

HarryHarley said:
Find a 24 footer and you won't have to worry about all this!!
Easy for me to say, though.

LOL... ain't that the truth... Although, if I had three more sections for the woodmizer I could cut it myself...

Leroy in Kansas · Aug 12, 2009

Ted, I used a "fitch plate" at least I think? that's what it's called. This is a piece of heavy sheet metal sandwiched between your 2/12's OR if you choose to use a three layer beam the metal goes between both layers. My son and I built a 26' clear span ceiling/floor in his shop. It's covered with 3/4" tongue and groove ply on the top and 3/4" osb on the bottom, (ceiling of shop) The joist are on 24" center. Doesn't have any bounce from above. I can send pic's if you want? Leroy

mrlynx · Aug 12, 2009

Why not take a tree in right size and cut it to the right dimension with a chainsaw?
Or do it oldschool with an axe.
There are also more modern alternatives like masonite beams.
http://www.byggmagroup.se/dt_article.aspx?m=2471

Backwoods · Aug 12, 2009

As long as the log is not to big to handle you can mill it twice on your mill and end up with a 24’ beam. Cut as far as you can on the first cut and trim the tailing off then back the saw out, do that to all four sides then reposition the log on your mill and level the log to the band and finish all the cuts.

Coalsmoke · Aug 13, 2009

Ted J said:
Not too much progress has been made since the last post due to worknig some OT at the real job and other things that are of higher priority. :bang:
The outside temps don't seem to help either.

Ran into a snag, and I could use some advice or suggestions. The 24 foot channel that I went to get, as it turns out is only 20 foot long. So, I need to make a 24 foot beam, as that is the span that I need fill.

I have on hand, 2x12x16 footers, I was thinking of making a laminated beam from three of those 2x12's. I was going to cut one 2x12 in half, staggering the sections, like so:
8 foot / 16 foot
16 foot / 8 foot
Using screws every 6 inches apart. alternating sides, for four rows using Strong-Drive® Screws (SDS).

Any suggestions, words of wisdom, or on hand experience?

Thanks in advance.
Ted

Yes this is an acceptable building practice, I have done this in outdoor construction and it is strong when done correctly. I don't know about the loading factors for your area, but keep in mind that you will loose some strength and rigidity with a spliced beam. If the original plan is for two 2x12s 24' long, you will want to make 3 layers.
Layer 1, 6' - 12' - 6'
Layer 2, 12' - 12'
Layer 3, 6' - 12' - 6'

or option 2:
Layer 1, 8' - 16'
Layer 2, 12' - 12'
Layer 3, 16' - 8'

Either is acceptable. At the ends of each board you will want two fasteners, and then spaced in an up down zig zag pattern every 8-10". Drive your fasteners in on an approximate 30* angle, and use either galvanized spiral nails or an equivalent screw.

BackWoodsGuy · Aug 13, 2009

I don't know about your area, but the 84 lumber up here carries microllam and it can be ordered in any length or thickness to support what ever amount is needed. most all pro builders are using them now. i used them in my basement to build new headers and support beams.

Mike Van · Aug 13, 2009

This is part of the header on the open side of my sawmill. It's 40 ft long, has openings of 18, 14 & 8 ft. Made of four oak 2x12's, double bolted every 2 ft. Overkill? Maybe a little. In the 14 ft span, using 2 chain hoists I picked a 24" old castiron planer off a trailer. We estimated the planer at 2800 lbs. The header never sagged, squeaked, or otherwise bit*hed about it's task.

Ted J · Aug 14, 2009

Leroy in Kansas said:
Ted, I used a "fitch plate" at least I think? that's what it's called. This is a piece of heavy sheet metal sandwiched between your 2/12's OR if you choose to use a three layer beam the metal goes between both layers. My son and I built a 26' clear span ceiling/floor in his shop. It's covered with 3/4" tongue and groove ply on the top and 3/4" osb on the bottom, (ceiling of shop) The joist are on 24" center. Doesn't have any bounce from above. I can send pic's if you want? Leroy

I thought about the flitch plate but I was trying to see if I could make up the board by sandwiching 16 foot 2x12's and alternating the splices. Like this:

I have on hand about 20 2x12's, and I'm trying to use them up.
So, let me know your thoughts on this.

Ted

Looking for a Sawmill Shed Design

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