gab
ArboristSite Lurker
I wonder if anyone could explain the removal of a chainsaw clutch. This is my climbing saw, a Husq 334xp. Thanks for any pointers.
Gabbard
Gabbard
clutch removal
- Thread starter gab
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Dadatwins
Addicted to ArboristSite
Usually chainsaw clutch is reverse thread. Best to remove spark plug and insert plastic tool to hold piston (not metal!) and ratchet it off. They can be on there pretty tight so some wd-40 can help.
Avoid hammering cause you do not want to mess up bearings or seals. Good luck!
Avoid hammering cause you do not want to mess up bearings or seals. Good luck!
Been there...
Yup, reverse thread... righty loosey, lefty tighty...
Might need a "special tool" to remove the thing (don't know about dem huskies). If you do... find an old socket and "fabricate" your own. Especially easy to do if you got one of them dremel doohickeys.
And remember... if you need to remove the flywheel... it's back to lefty loosey, righty tighty
peace out,
Matt
Yup, reverse thread... righty loosey, lefty tighty...
Might need a "special tool" to remove the thing (don't know about dem huskies). If you do... find an old socket and "fabricate" your own. Especially easy to do if you got one of them dremel doohickeys.
And remember... if you need to remove the flywheel... it's back to lefty loosey, righty tighty
peace out,
Matt
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think some of the larger huskies have a 3/4" nut like protrusion on the clutch assembly itself, I just used a bar wrench and some rope to get it off when I need to do that. I dont know about the smaller huskies but mine has the 3/4" protrusion on it so I can just use my bar wrench and need no special tools.
Anyone know if its possible to weld a nut onto the clutch itself to get it off easier? like a 1/4" long section of a nut sticking out to put a wrench on.
Anyone know if its possible to weld a nut onto the clutch itself to get it off easier? like a 1/4" long section of a nut sticking out to put a wrench on.
There is such a beast as a clutch wrench, maybe 5 bucks from Stihl. It has three fingers to grab the shoes. I've got one that works on several of my saws.
Chris B.
Chris B.
gab
ArboristSite Lurker
Got it off, used an air wrench on low setting and just bumped it off. No special tool needed, although I looks like my 372 would need one. Thanks for the help.
Gab
Gab
Lot of people here have a major problem with using an air wrench for these applications. It can be hard on the bearings especially when they're not rolling. Plus, the threads we're dealing are not particularly large and can be stripped by the impact in the time it takes to blink an eye. I believe that used carefully, you're on safe ground.
Personally, I've used the impact but generally stick to rope and wrench or compression and a blunt chisel to knock it loose. Besides, it's a hassle for me to setup the impact and air hose.
Chris B.
Personally, I've used the impact but generally stick to rope and wrench or compression and a blunt chisel to knock it loose. Besides, it's a hassle for me to setup the impact and air hose.
Chris B.
Resurrection day...
How do you use the rope method? I've got a McCulloch 3216 but figure clutch removal is pretty generic...
I'm trying to solve an oiler problem.
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Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Insert a foot or so of starter rope in the spark plug hole, but be sure the piston is above the ports or you can get the rope hung up in the jug. Then use a wrench to turn the clutch.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I just reread your post and realized that your saw does not have a place for a wrench. On that style of saw I leave the plug in an use an old bolt (because it's not as hard as the clutch) and a hammer to give the clutch a good whack. It normally spins off after a couple of licks. Be sure you're going the correct direction.
Thanks. The rope idea makes sense now. My saw does have a nut on the clutch side so I'll give that a whirl.
In the event I have to remove the flywheel (finned part) is there an alternate method in absence of the proper puller? I have a general wheel puller but the tabs are to thick and it's a three legger. It looks like I'd need a 2 leg puller to get the flywheel off? Clearance issues with other parts... The nut on that came off easily...
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I've used a harmonic balancer puller, and a steering wheel puller to remove flywheels, sometimes you can remove the two bolts that hold the starter pawls and replace them with longer bolts to pull with.
I remove flywheels with a brass hammer most of the time. I hold the saw up a few inches above the bench either by holding the flywheel with my hand or by sliding a screwdriver under it and holding that. Then I sharply smack the loosened flywheel nut. But that's just me.
On a Stihl I use the Stihl style puller.
Zombiechopper
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 3 jar pullers fit on a 200t.
Yes, smack the crank end with a brass whammer.
Yes, smack the crank end with a brass whammer.
The nut for the clutch came right off, just held the flywheel with a screwdriver, got lucky... The nut for the flywheel came off easily previously and the hammer and screw driver method worked to get the flywheel off...
Got the rest of the saw apart. Took the pump apart and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and followed up with penetrating oil. Reassembled, lubed and put the saw all back together. Looks like it may be fixed. I have yet to put the bar and chain back on but oil is now spewing from the port. Hopefully I didn't over fix it!
Hopefully I'll get around to finishing this tomorrow and see how it works.
Got the rest of the saw apart. Took the pump apart and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and followed up with penetrating oil. Reassembled, lubed and put the saw all back together. Looks like it may be fixed. I have yet to put the bar and chain back on but oil is now spewing from the port. Hopefully I didn't over fix it!
Hopefully I'll get around to finishing this tomorrow and see how it works.
