Homelite Super 1050 questions.

RaisedByWolves · Oct 1, 2006

OK, I need some help with this situation I find myself in. I have aquired a fairly large group of NOS homelite cylinders. In this lil bunch are two very similar cylinders that I believe are for the S1050.

The problem I have is that one of the cyl types has a brass tube sticking out of the back and the other does not. Both have the same casting #, and look identicle save for the tube.

Pics.......

These cylinders both have the serial# 58175E, but after the serial# the one with the pipe has a 1 satmped in the casting(like a hand stamp) and the one without the pipe has a 3.

Anyone have a clue as to why one has the pipe and the other dosent?

GPH85 · Oct 1, 2006

These are more observations than answers, because I don't rightfully know the answer to your question... Location and dirrection in which it's pointed shows that it must go up into the carburetor area? Also too low in the cylinder to be any sort of decompression valve. Could it be that some models of the Super 1050 had a different "more modern" carburetor on them? One that would require a pulse of vacuum to work the fuel pump in the carb?

I've never known any of the 1050's to have a setup like this, but they were around for a long time to the point where they eventually had solid state ignition systems over the original point systems.

Well, Just a thought and sorry I couldn't be of more assistance... Perhaps someone on here has the IPL's for this saw and can say exactly what it is...

retoocs555 · Oct 1, 2006

Did the 1050 power head find work on anything other than a chainsaw. Maybe, a cutoff saw, water pump etc???

buzz sawyer · Oct 1, 2006

My parts book shows a small picture of a cylinder with this tube with a plug going into it - caption says 1050E only, but I don't know if they mean the tube or the plug. On mine, there is a tube connecting near the bottom of the carb that I thought was for the fuel pump pulse. I'll check tomorrow to see if where it connects unless someone comes up with the answer sooner.

buzz sawyer · Oct 1, 2006

Parts book drawing

See attached

RaisedByWolves · Oct 1, 2006

So buzz, that part #52 is just a plug?

If so this is the weirdliest thing Ive ever seen, although that protrusion on the carb elbow looks like it could be ment for a fitting.

But what would it do?

buzz sawyer · Oct 2, 2006

RaisedByWolves said:
So buzz, that part #52 is just a plug?

If so this is the weirdliest thing Ive ever seen, although that protrusion on the carb elbow looks like it could be ment for a fitting.

But what would it do?

The protrusion houses the idle speed screw. A hose comes off at 90 Deg. Looks like the same size as the one in your photo. My memory is failing. I rebuilt the carb and had the saw all apart this spring but can't remember where this hose connects. See photo - just took it in the shop. I'll check into this more tomorrow. Mine is a 1050E.

Mike mandry · Oct 2, 2006

Dumb question for all you 1050 guys:

I have one that I havent run yet (just got it a few weeks ago)

How do they run & what do they compare to ??

My biggest Homelite that I own besides this is a SXL 925

buzz sawyer · Oct 2, 2006

Mike mandry said:
Dumb question for all you 1050 guys:

I have one that I havent run yet (just got it a few weeks ago)

How do they run & what do they compare to ??

My biggest Homelite that I own besides this is a SXL 925

At 82cc's and about 10 pounds lighter, the 925 sounds pretty good.

We've had this 1050 for close to 30 years and its a big strong saw. I haven't run anything else this big except for the sp125 which is a little more saw. Unless you really push on the spikes, the 1050 is pretty hard to stop. I slabbed a bunch of 24" walnut with it some years ago. Had the 36" bar buried and it just kept on cutting and throwing out spaghetti. With the 24" bar, it's pretty fast even though its not a high speed saw.

Can be a bit hard to start since there is no compression release. I like to get the piston close to the top and then pull like you mean it. Make sure the starter dog bolts are tight. Had one come loose and do a dance around the flywheel. Took out the flywheel and the cover, not to mention about a year off my life.

Almost forgot - wear ear protection - it's loud!

buzz sawyer · Oct 2, 2006

RaisedByWolves said:
So buzz, that part #52 is just a plug?

If so this is the weirdliest thing Ive ever seen, although that protrusion on the carb elbow looks like it could be ment for a fitting.

But what would it do?

RBW - just got done machining a part for work - wasn't able to get too deep into the saw. I did pull the hose of the carb and pull the starter cord a few times. There is a positive pulse at the hose. You would think this would be for the fuel pump. But since the book indicated the 1050E had a plug in the cyl. tube, maybe I don't have an E or someone modified it in the past. As soon as I can get that cyl shroud off, I'll take a look. Sorry I couldn't be more help on this.

RaisedByWolves · Oct 3, 2006

Buzz, you and the rest are being great help, much appricated guys!

The 925 is a much better saw but these things (s1050's) just dont give up. The low revs combined with good torque make for a saw that cuts good and lasts nearly forever.

I only wish for two things, I wish these were 925 cylinders ($$$) and I wish I had a few 1050's to do some mods on and see how much could be gained with them.

I do have a few cyl's to play with......

GPH85 · Oct 3, 2006

I'm going to take another wild shot at this after seeing the pics left by Buzz...

Notice that the idle screw goes into this orifice... Does not control actual idle or rather throttle shaft...

Is it possible, that Homelite found an ingenious way to simmulate an IAC (Idle Air Controller)? By this I mean, obviously the hose goes into the cylinder "above the piston top", unlike your traditional fuel pulse line that goes into the crankcase... You screw the idle screw in and out = changes amount of air fuel bypassing and going into cylinder... Also the Tilloston carbs pump fuel in through your "old fashion" vacuum pulses going through the venturrie, so why would they need this "pulse" to drive the fuel pump...

I know it's extremely far fetched, but hey, it's a thought, right

Greg

buzz sawyer · Oct 3, 2006

GPH85 said:
I'm going to take another wild shot at this after seeing the pics left by Buzz...

Notice that the idle screw goes into this orifice... Does not control actual idle or rather throttle shaft...

Is it possible, that Homelite found an ingenious way to simmulate an IAC (Idle Air Controller)? By this I mean, obviously the hose goes into the cylinder "above the piston top", unlike your traditional fuel pulse line that goes into the crankcase... You screw the idle screw in and out = changes amount of air fuel bypassing and going into cylinder... Also the Tilloston carbs pump fuel in through your "old fashion" vacuum pulses going through the venturrie, so why would they need this "pulse" to drive the fuel pump...

I know it's extremely far fetched, but hey, it's a thought, right
Greg

Interesting idea Greg. You're right, there is no idle stop on the throttle linkage and as I recall, backing the idle screw out increased the idle speed. Now you all have me so curious, I'm going out now to confirm that the hose goes to the cylinder tube. Before I get into the carb though, I'm checking with my local saw expert to see if he knows how this works. It may be balancing intake mixture with exhaust? Like an EGR valve? Maybe 1050E was the emissions model?

lesorubcheek · Oct 3, 2006

This has gotten me curious, so I dug out the Intertec 5th edition and sure enough this is a unique way to control idle speed. Instead of opening the throttle butterfy, a screw is on the intake manifold that allows more air/fuel mix to enter the cylinder to increase idle. Here is a brief exerpt from the manual:
"Note that idle speed on models XP-1020, XP-1020 Automatic, XP-1130, 1050 Automatic, and 1130G is adjusted by turning air screw (5-fig HL53) in intake manifold. Turning screw clockwise will increase idle speed while turning screw counterclockwise will decrease idle speed. Initial setting is 3/8 turn open."

The diagram clearly shows a tube running from the intake to the cylinder. So this cylinder is a spot to recieve additional air/fuel mix to adjust the idle speed instead of all of the air/fuel coming directly through the intake manifold. It would be interesting to see if anyone knows the reason Homelite did this instead of the conventional cam screw to simply open the throttle butterfly for idle speed adjustment.

Dan

buzz sawyer · Oct 3, 2006

OK, here's a view from underneath that shows the cyl tube - same one that goes to intake. I'll try to find out more tomorrow.

RBW - if you get tired of that old cylinder laying around collecting dust, I might be interested.

GPH85 · Oct 3, 2006

But what doesn't make any sense to me is why is this the only group of saws that I have ever seen to have this on it "or just now seeing"? Was emmissions even a "big" concern when this saw was introduced?

I guess if the carb didn't have the vacuum pulse orifice, this could be used as a fuel pump "driver", but it does controll idle

OK, even if we have solved that it was used for idle - why only this group of saws? - why some big setup like this when it has a machineable area for the idle screw to go? - just so many why's :cry:

Perhaps they discovered fuel was being wasted going in and through the crankcase, so they delivered just enough to lube everything and the rest straight to the combustion chamber?

Let us know what you find Buzz

Greg

buzz sawyer · Oct 3, 2006

According to the "acres" site, the 1050E was discontinued in '77. Not sure about saws, but emission controls were big (pita) on cars then.

bugfart · Aug 31, 2015

buzz sawyer said:
According to the "acres" site, the 1050E was discontinued in '77. Not sure about saws, but emission controls were big (pita) on cars then.

Pretty sure the E stood for "Extreme cold weather"
The reversed threaded screw at the manifold allowed for such adjustments in sub-zero temps.
That hose that comes from the cylinder comes up through the handle assy and pre-heats the fuel mixture for you.

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