List of ripping chains?

woodshop said:

Do you do any milling Fudomyo?

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Fudomyo said:

Just wondering if anyone has come up with a list of all the ripping chains out there, and what kind each is. What does everyone use?

Here's the ones I have seen.

GranBerg has their skip and a half chisel round face. I assume this helps on the bigger slabs. I haven't actually seen anyone say it leaves a better finish. Pretty much covers all the sizes.

Oregon has ripping chain.
.325 is micro chisel / round
.375 is semi-chisel / round
.404 is micro chisel / round

WoodsmanPro has all semi-chisel / round. 10 degree top, 75 degree side angle.

Please add to the list or any additional info you have. Thx

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TedChristiansen said:

Woodshop,

Here is information on the Logosol Bill Mill LSG:
http://www.logosol.com/webb/sawmills/2002a-big_mill_lsg.php#

which is a variation of the TimberJig:
http://www.logosol.com/webb/sawmills/2002a-big_mill_system.php

Ted

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Rooshooter said:

As already mentioned Carlton do a 3/8x050 - they also do
375x050LP semi chisel 10o top plate 85/90o side plate depth gauge .022"
375x058 semi chisel 10o top plate 85/90o side plate depth gauge .028"
375x063 semi chisel 10o top plate 85/90o side plate depth gauge .028"
404x058 semi chisel 10o top plate 85/90o side plate depth gauge .036"
404x063 semi chisel 10o top plate 85/90o side plate depth gauge .036"
404x063 Microcut 10o top plate 50/55o side plate depth gauge .035"

Microcut is supposed to give a smoother finish - i haven't tried any as yet but awaiting a sample from Carlton, it is a chamfer chisel tooth
The two 404 semi chisel are listed as machine chains but i run an 088 with depth gauges set abt .038" on a 42" bar - just hang on !
BTW all the WoodsmanPro i have seen in Oz is made by Carlton [/COLOR]

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Adrpk said:

Hey, Rooshooter, wouldn't mind seeing some pics, hey. Is that a mill your using that 088 on or just to burn through the firewood with?

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Rooshooter said:

Hey there ADrpk - thanks for the response, I use the 88 to fell & cut firewood or if i find a decent piece of timber like Redgum i will slab it without a jig, i just climb up on the log and go, i can get the slabs fairly even, i also have a rough slabbing rail for my 395XP which i use with a 34" bar - for the firewood cutting i use a 25o top plate which will also rip ok - 35o doesn't quite do the job as our timber to dense and hard and we use almost exclusively semi chisel, we can fold the corner back on full chisel particularly at 35o top plate, brute power & low depth gauges do the job with semi chisel for me. Btw we cut extremely hard wood here not softwood, we can easily stall a 395XP w/20" bar in some of our timber - i have even stalled the 88 with 28" and yes i do know how to sharpen a chain, i am also a Carlton dealer and probably one of the few here that gets out and does some serious cutting & not sit on my butt bulls***ing, I have 2 Oregon grinders set up (511A & 522A) one for sharpening one for depth gauges and i do a lot of experimenting with top & sideplate angles / depth gauges to see what will work best in our timber.
Regards - avagoodweekend........ Laurie

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woodshop said:

Thanks Ted, so it looks like the LSG is similar to a Granberg Mark III csm. Are there any advantages to the LSG over the Granberg alaskan mill in your opinion? Just curious.

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Adrpk said:

That is getting it done big.
Rooshooter, got any pics of a roo. We have an Australian restaurant down the street from me, I have had kangaroo steaks. Um, um good. Strange looking animal for us up here in these parts.
Pardon me for going off topic.

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dustytools said:

Hi Rooshooter, Picture 3 interests me as I have never seen a bar attached to a rail this way. Did you make this or is it a bar that you bought somewhere? I enjoyed your pics. Thanks.

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Rooshooter said:

Hi dustytools, The rail is a home made and designed job, commonly referred to as lazy Aussie ingenuity, We see something that looks complex or difficult to make then come up with a solution to make the item & get the job done easier.
The channel section of the rail has been tapered by using G clamps to pull it in at the open section, then 1/4x1" flat steel welded across to prevent spreading, these also have holes drilled in the flat steel to insert drill point roofing bolts ( abt 5/32" x 3" ) into the log, the jig to hold the saw & bar where it attaches to the rail is also tapered to prevent it lifting off the rail - just need a bit of lube to prevent it binding.
I just use pieces of scrap timber under the flat steel on the bottom of rail to level things up a bit.

I have attached a few pics - you can see the end of the slabbing rail a bit better, the burl sitting the back of the 4x4 is what i cut abt 6 weeks ago - weight approx 1500lb , the Eucalypt is what the burl was cut from ( doesn't look very big in the pic ! ) and the last pic is another eucalypt i dropped 2 months ago, I will be blocking it up for firewood this week and should get abt 15 ton.
Regards ..... Rooshooter (+)

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