Wedgle Direct Inject system anybody?

Anyone have any info or experince with this product?

I've used it for about 6 years. I was thinking the other day that I've probably injected over 2,000 trees w/it. I love it, no caps left behind to go back and pick up. A good diversity of products. As long as it is used CORRECTLY and the wedge-chek is set properly it works great. Patience is needed when first using it. It also needs to be kept clean. A real good system...

Reason I'm asking is I can get one real cheap and it's one more tool I can use if a situation arises.Where are you getting product for it?

Urban Forester said:

I've used it for about 6 years. I was thinking the other day that I've probably injected over 2,000 trees w/it. I love it, no caps left behind to go back and pick up. A good diversity of products. As long as it is used CORRECTLY and the wedge-chek is set properly it works great. Patience is needed when first using it. It also needs to be kept clean. A real good system...

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UF, could you elaborate a bit further? I am interested in this system but most of the information available is from Wedgle (might be biased) and their competitors (definitely biased) showing the damage that is apparently caused by the Wedgle system.

I would be interested in feedback from an applicator with substantial experience and some kind of data base on species' response and pathogens addressed.

Thanks for any info.

Dave

D Mc said:

UF, could you elaborate a bit further?
Dave

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The POTENTIAL for damage DOES exist, but 99% of the time what I have seen is the incorrect use of the equipment. That happens one of three ways. Incorrect location of the wedge-chek, either to high up the trunk or in an area that doesn't allow for smooth translocation i.e. grafts or sunken areas, between buttress roots (valleys), the tissue in the graft or valleys holds the product and as a result can cause decay. Another way is that the wedge-chek is not placed at the proper depth putting the product in non-conductive tissue, once again holding the product. There is also what I call "rapid deployment" of the product causing bark splitting. Thin bark trees are most suseptible to this. The applicator pulls the trigger too fast causing the product to "rush in" behind the bark causing the split. Finally, there is a problem with the angle the gun is inserted into the wedge-chek, it MUST go in straight, so that the oil in the wedge-chek can seal around the needle, too much of an angle up or down while "misplace" the product causing a problem. While the wedgle IS a gun, it's NOT a M-16. All of these things come from a lack of training and/or a lack of patience on the part of the co./applicator. When inquiring about the wedgle @ the website, Skip (the owner of Arbor Systems) will be VERY helpful in providing you with all the assitance you need. With regards to what the "competition" says, the one biggest negative about this industry I have seen in my 20 years in it is it's cutthroat nature. I am a FIRM believer in selling YOUR product on it's merit's, NOT putting down the other guy. I found that most of the current application methods available, regardless of what they are, have their good points and bad, and have a place in the arborist "tool belt". If the big 3 acted the way MOST companies in the "green industry" act they would all be up to their butts in libel and slander lawsuits. I don't understand the need to slam the "other guy", but it happens all the time in this industry.

woodville said:

Reason I'm asking is I can get one real cheap and it's one more tool I can use if a situation arises.Where are you getting product for it?

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Check it closely to make sure it's been taken care of... Some of the time people get rid of them cheap because they've beat the crap out of them. You end up spending more on replacement parts than you would on a new gun. The product is available through a distibutor network in the U.S. Email Skip and he can tell you who in your state sells the product.

D Mc said:

...and some kind of data base on species' response and pathogens addressed.
Dave

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I treat about 300 Ash a year (w/Imidicloprid) for EAB (very good results), I also use it to treat Iron/Manganese chlorosis (a new product called Green Tree Pro has been very good). I inject crabapples (w/Propiconizole) for Apple Scab (level of control is dependent on the natural resistance the specific cultivar has) I also inject large (tall) Locusts (w/Abemectin) to control Plant Bug and Locust Mite (results have been encouraging). I use the growth regulator (flurprimidol) and fruit reduction product (dikegulac sodium) w/mixed results. Bottom line is some tree species are easier to regulate than others, and proper timing is critical. Hope that helps...

Thanks. It is always nice to hear the other side of the story. The working worker's side...

Dave

Is anyone having problems with moving certain products through the Wedgle? I'm having problems with Shepherd and Green Tree Pro. I clean the Wedgle between each use and soak it in warm water and clean it at the end of the day. Any comments would be greatly appreciated!

MichelleC said:

Is anyone having problems with moving certain products through the Wedgle? I'm having problems with Shepherd and Green Tree Pro. I clean the Wedgle between each use and soak it in warm water and clean it at the end of the day. Any comments would be greatly appreciated!

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Both of those products are "thicker" than the other products. I have found that you need to pull the triggers (always pull using both triggers) VERY slowly for 2 reasons: 1) to get the product in through the wedge-chek, this allows the product to SLOWLY spread out behind the wedge-chek and into the conductive tissue, reducing the chance of bark splitting or leakage. 2) to make sure a full 1ML re-loads in the gun. Setting the wedge-chek is also very important. Make sure it is seated up against the bark. Also you may want to move your sites 1 or 2 inches higher up the trunk, younger bark tissue is more plyable, thus it expands easier. After cleaning the gun w/the water bottle attached, I remove the water and spray lysol down into the quik-disconnect that holds the bottle. This keeps the products from drying in the needle valve and blocking it. I also remove the needle and spray into the quik-disconnect that holds it. The above also applies to the use of "Mastif" (Arbor Systems growth regulator).

wedgle

The problem is moving the product out of the wedgle. It just doesn't always want to come out. The gun is cleaned between each use and cleaned at the end of the day. Sometimes the fungicide just won't move through the wedgle and out into the tree. Green Tree Pro also. I know they're both thicker than the other products. I was wondering if anyone else was having this problem or is it something I'm doing wrong.

I've never had a problem w/either coming out of the gun.. I would check the needle.

Wedgle

Ends up I had a faulty screen part, after having a rep look at the wedgle. Thanks for all your help!