0.050 vs. 0.063

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Grey

Wood junky
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Is there any difference in price, performance, etc? My MS361 and 461 both run stock 3/8, 0.050. I really like the Tsurmua light and tough bars, but they only come in 63. Trying to decide if it's worth it to change out my 50 B&C' s (20, 25 & 32") for 63's. Any thoughts? I'm very much a novice so I'm open to your thoughts
 
I'm sorry, but I swear I've been over this at least 1000 times with allay'all. It's really, really simple. Anything with a larger number will be superior to something with a smaller number in any application. 063 is better than 050. 93 is better than 87. (This next one is confusing, but) 32:1 is better than 50:1.
I'm gonna poast a stickie.
 
Is there any difference in price, performance, etc? My MS361 and 461 both run stock 3/8, 0.050. I really like the Tsurmua light and tough bars, but they only come in 63. Trying to decide if it's worth it to change out my 50 B&C' s (20, 25 & 32") for 63's. Any thoughts? I'm very much a novice so I'm open to your thoughts

No difference that matters to most. Main point is there is not .404 availible in .050, minor point is local availiblity still not an issue for most.
 
There is a reason ALL stihl saws sold in Australia not setup with picco are delivered with .063. l bought a heap of 050 bars from the US and have been replacing them all gradually with 063. ln hardwood with stringy bark the only good thing about an 050 bar is in short order you can fry a egg on them. Add a hopped up saw to the mix turning 2-4k rpm over stock in 'hard' wood and the thinner drive tangs get beat up/worn and stop delivering oil as well. lt took me a while.......but eventually l relised WHY stihl delivers all saws with the exception of picco with 063 bars in our country. ln softwood species one may never know the difference. Just my 2c.
 
Gauge is a regional thing but as CR888 mentioned above .063" is definitely the toughest across all hand held saw applications.
In Australia Stihl saws in .325" and up all come with .063" and Huskies come with .058" up to about 28" then .063" from 32" up (or thereabouts).
I have converted all of my larger saws including Huskies/Dolmars to .063" where I can. .050" simply doesn't hold up under tough hardwood conditions and .063" definitely transfers more oil to the chain.
Ive used equal parts .050" and .063" and the only chains I've ever had bust through the drivelink were .050" - .063" is far more heavy duty.
Regardless of chain gauge I've always run my oilers flat out with the exception of the 3120XP's on short bars as they resemble the Exxon Valdez crude oil spill if you wind those things up :)
Remember though that in Australia our Eucalypt and other hardwoods is completely different to northern hemisphere hardwoods.
 
I have some 0.063 chains for sale in in the trading post but most are 0.325 pitch. IDK who heck would use .063 with .325 pitch but non the less they exist. They are for short bars but if any of you guys in AU can use them on your limbin saw let me know I will make you a good deal.
 
l just bought recently out of the AS trading post 29X.325/063 72dl stihl 26RM chains for about eight bucks each. l love the fact others think .325/063 is an oddball pitch/gauge as it means it can be had cheap if you keep your eyes peeled. 72dl is the oddball part as stihl 18" bars are 74dl & 16" are 67dl but thats what a breaker/spinner set is for........or a file and a hammer.:)
 
l just bought recently out of the AS trading post 29X.325/063 72dl stihl 26RM chains for about eight bucks each. l love the fact others think .325/063 is an oddball pitch/gauge as it means it can be had cheap if you keep your eyes peeled. 72dl is the oddball part as stihl 18" bars are 74dl & 16" are 67dl but thats what a breaker/spinner set is for........or a file and a hammer.:)

Chain length depends on the bar mount. 74DL is for their 18" .325" 3003 mount bars only. Their 3005 mount 18" .325" bars are 68DL. 72DL is an odd one though for Stihl although the .325" 18" Husky bars in UHL mount are 72DL which might explain that size.
 
I have never had a problem with .050 for a 20" bar, but on longer bars (including 24") I prefer the .063. It oils a little better, and seems harder to jam with chips if you are bucking with the tip buried in the wood.

I used to run .050 on everything, but going forward, anything over 20" will be .063. Luckily, the sprocket is the same for both, so I can still interchange bars & chains.
 
I have never had a problem with .050 for a 20" bar, but on longer bars (including 24") I prefer the .063. It oils a little better, and seems harder to jam with chips if you are bucking with the tip buried in the wood.

I used to run .050 on everything, but going forward, anything over 20" will be .063. Luckily, the sprocket is the same for both, so I can still interchange bars & chains.

Well said and I agree 100%.
 
Chain length depends on the bar mount. 74DL is for their 18" .325" 3003 mount bars only. Their 3005 mount 18" .325" bars are 68DL. 72DL is an odd one though for Stihl although the .325" 18" Husky bars in UHL mount are 72DL which might explain that size.
@Jimbo209, see the quoted post. I think his reply will help you.
 
Old thread, but answers my questions of late.

ln softwood species one may never know the difference. Just my 2c.

Gauge is a regional thing but as CR888 mentioned above .063" is definitely the toughest across all hand held saw applications.
In Australia Stihl saws in .325" and up all come with .063" and Huskies come with .058" up to about 28" then .063" from 32" up (or thereabouts).
I have converted all of my larger saws including Huskies/Dolmars to .063" where I can. .050" simply doesn't hold up under tough hardwood conditions and .063" definitely transfers more oil to the chain.
Ive used equal parts .050" and .063" and the only chains I've ever had bust through the drivelink were .050" - .063" is far more heavy duty.
Regardless of chain gauge I've always run my oilers flat out with the exception of the 3120XP's on short bars as they resemble the Exxon Valdez crude oil spill if you wind those things up :)
Remember though that in Australia our Eucalypt and other hardwoods is completely different to northern hemisphere hardwoods.

Also is the 0.050 gauge less friction in the groove?
 
Is there any difference in price, performance, etc? My MS361 and 461 both run stock 3/8, 0.050. I really like the Tsurmua light and tough bars, but they only come in 63. Trying to decide if it's worth it to change out my 50 B&C' s (20, 25 & 32") for 63's. Any thoughts? I'm very much a novice so I'm open to your thoughts
Of course there is a difference from 050 to 063. My 2 cent not much. I have some bars that have hundreds of cords or thousand and are still going strong. Start with 050 gets worn then go to 058 then go to 063. I pretty much can not determine any difference. The difference is very small. If you like a 063 bar use it. It will take mega HP to pull a wider chain yes. That mega HP might be measured as a hundredth of a HP or not noticeable. Some have said the wider chain is more durable then use it. Thanks
 
I have noticed the longer Oregon hard nose bars with the larger nose are only in 0.063.

What about choices for skip and semi skip without checking from memory that seemed to be something strange as the skip and semi skip one would expect to go on longer bars.
 
There is "ZERO" difference between .050 and .063 gauge chain when operated in the appropriate gauge of bar; "IF" you buy Stihl chain, because Stihl chain is .063 at the rivets on all 3/8 and .404 chain pitches at least anything they have manufactured in the last 25 yrs or so.
If you buy Oregon chain you do get a true .050 gauge driver and a chain that has a slightly narrower kerf. In the past .063 gauge chain was offered to reduce chain stretch on large displacement, high power saws running long bars.
 

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