Rebuilt carb on my Stihl 015L. Closed H/L setting, then backed off settings on carb at 1 1/4 turn out on both L and H. There was an LA needle I set also to 1 1/4 turn. Pulled the rope with the spark plug out to make sure was getting a spark. Sparking good. Put about a teaspoon of mix in chamber to get it started. Put spark plug in and connection. Pull, pull, pull...nothing. Made sure on/off switch was in the correct position. Nothing. Yep, used the choke also, but nothing fired. Would have thought that at least fire off gas I put in the chamber! Checked compression several times and it was 105 cold. What am I missing? Perhaps carb setting not correct? Is 105 too low of a compression to even fire? Need some advice? Thanks
015L rebuild will not fire up
- Thread starter JamesReed
- Start date
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1953greg
ArboristSite Guru
its doubtful you wil get anything more than a pop w/ 105psi. 125/135 is usually minimum. was the saw running before the carb rebuild?
Aussie MacGyver
ArboristSite Lurker
That compression reading is low if you are using a small engine compression gauge but high if using a standard auto compression gauge. All my small engines (650 Pioneer saw, echo whipper snipper, etc) run fine with 70-90psi readings on a standard auto compression gauge.
I think the accepted standard is a 2 stroke needs a minimum of 110psi to fire, but I could be wrong here.
You need air/fuel mix, spark and compression to run an engine. You have fuel (you introduced it yourself), you have spark. Tnhat only leaves compression as the missing ingredient. Unless of course you flooded it with the fuel you introduced.
I would pull the plug and turn her over half a dozen times then reinstall the plug and try again.
cheers
Scott
I think the accepted standard is a 2 stroke needs a minimum of 110psi to fire, but I could be wrong here.
You need air/fuel mix, spark and compression to run an engine. You have fuel (you introduced it yourself), you have spark. Tnhat only leaves compression as the missing ingredient. Unless of course you flooded it with the fuel you introduced.
I would pull the plug and turn her over half a dozen times then reinstall the plug and try again.
cheers
Scott
johnb
ArboristSite Operative
flywheel
Hi, did you take the flywheel off the saw for any reason?? If so make sure the key way is correctly lined up between the flywheel and crankshaft. If they are not in sink the saw will show ignition fire but is not in time with the crankshaft. I had this happen on a couple of saws that had the integrated flywheel/keyway built into them. It shears the key and slowly starts to turn the saw out of time. Just a suggestion. I'm not familiar with the key situation on the 15. The Hoosier
Sharpen your chain it's a jungle out there!!!!!!!!!
Hi, did you take the flywheel off the saw for any reason?? If so make sure the key way is correctly lined up between the flywheel and crankshaft. If they are not in sink the saw will show ignition fire but is not in time with the crankshaft. I had this happen on a couple of saws that had the integrated flywheel/keyway built into them. It shears the key and slowly starts to turn the saw out of time. Just a suggestion. I'm not familiar with the key situation on the 15. The Hoosier
Sharpen your chain it's a jungle out there!!!!!!!!!
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
JamesReed said:
When you rebuilt the carb, did you replace the check valve? It doesn't come in the kit, but is available. It's right in the bottom and a primary failure point on that old carb.
Walbro has a slide hammer to get the old valve body out, but you may be able to figure out something else.
Borrow a compression tester that has the schrader valve at the tip. Trying to infer a compresson reading from one that doesn't is waste of effort on a small displacement saw.
Last edited:
PES+
Addicted to ArboristSite
JamesReed said:
Was this grit in the throat of the carb?
If so you are in for a minimum of a ring and possibly a piston
Are you comfortable removing the jug?
Lakeside53 said:
Sorry to say no I did not replace the check valve. What does the check valve look like, exactly where is it located and where can I get one? I used a compression tester that I ordered from Baileys when I checked compression.
Actually, today when I came in from work I decided to give the saw a try. First pull it did start for about 6 seconds then quit. I may have had it flooded yesterday. Tried more times but it would try to start and quit with white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I have H/L at 1-1/4 out cc and LA the same. Any suggestion on these adjustments? Heck, I felt success somewhat just to her try to start.
adjust
I believe an 015 only needed 1/2 to 3/4 turn on each screw.
I believe an 015 only needed 1/2 to 3/4 turn on each screw.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
JamesReed said:
If you have the correct compression tester and really only have 105... you may as well stop there...
The check valve is just a small disk of flexible material, but it's buried in a structure in the bottom of the carb.. Do you have an IPL?
stihltech said:
WOW...your exactly right!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just assumed that most saw settings were 1-1/2 and was standard. I was definitely wrong. I set both of my 015/015L to 1/2 cc on H/L and they started on second pull. I can get the L adjusted but the H bogs down somewhat when reving up to full on the trigger. Should I be adjusting the LA screw (cc or clockwise to correct)at running on high and full trigger?
My hat is off to you...you da man! lol
PES+
Addicted to ArboristSite
Low speed needle out (ccw)
Low speed needle out (ccw) to best acceleration to top rpm then set idle stop screw to just under chain engagement
Low speed needle out (ccw) to best acceleration to top rpm then set idle stop screw to just under chain engagement
man
NAH, just been around long enough to have worked on 015s every week.
NAH, just been around long enough to have worked on 015s every week.
